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SOLVED: Trouble installing 5100s w/885s

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by tamer, Sep 9, 2016.

  1. Sep 9, 2016 at 12:54 AM
    #1
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    I tried to install my kit (assembled strut) from HeadStrong today and ran into an issue. Once the assembled 5100 is in place, I cannot get the LCA to bolt back up to the ball joint. I disconnected the sway bar, which was a big help, but I was just out of reach. I didn't want to force it. When I tried to use the jack to lift the LCA the whole truck lifted and the strut didn't compress at all.

    Any thoughts? Advice?

    Thanks,
    Tamer

    IMG_4487.jpg
     
  2. Sep 9, 2016 at 1:05 AM
    #2
    bskin

    bskin Well-Known Member

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    You shouldn't have to disconnect the lca to install those.
     
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  3. Sep 9, 2016 at 1:15 AM
    #3
    bskin

    bskin Well-Known Member

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    Take the strut out reconnect the lca, use a small block of wood in your wheel well and a bottle jack on your uca, push the uca down as much as it will go and see if you can install the 5100s.
     
  4. Sep 9, 2016 at 5:44 AM
    #4
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    I have also used a pry bar to pick up the base of the strut and push the LCA down.
     
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  5. Sep 9, 2016 at 6:38 AM
    #5
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    Ahh, makes sense. Thanks guys, I'll give it another go this weekend.
     
  6. Sep 9, 2016 at 10:04 AM
    #6
    TravlingmanTN

    TravlingmanTN "Nice hooters!"

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    I had a similar problem. I just made sure that the LCA was loose, and just continue to lower and raise it until it goes. I also sprayed some pb blaster the the LCA joint, and made sure the coil sits flush up in the tophat.
    Good luck!
     
  7. Sep 11, 2016 at 12:05 PM
    #7
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    Well I was able to get it in using a bottle jack, but now it looks like I need a new UCA. I was under the impression that a UCA was optional and only needed if you can't hit the right alignment numbers. But this looks like the UCA is going to interfere with the coil as soon as I drop it off the stands. See attached, any thoughts?

    IMG_4533.jpg
    IMG_4534.jpg
    IMG_4535.jpg
     
  8. Sep 11, 2016 at 1:13 PM
    #8
    TravlingmanTN

    TravlingmanTN "Nice hooters!"

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    885's on an AC? What setting are the 5100s at?
     
  9. Sep 11, 2016 at 1:35 PM
    #9
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    I believe zero
     
  10. Sep 11, 2016 at 2:47 PM
    #10
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    Looks like I was a little paranoid. Forgot that when the truck is lifted the suspension is fully relaxed and he UCA will be as low as it will ever go. As soon as I dropped it off the stands the gap opened right up.
     
    REDdawn6 and TravlingmanTN like this.
  11. Sep 11, 2016 at 2:50 PM
    #11
    TravlingmanTN

    TravlingmanTN "Nice hooters!"

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    Pics when you get finished!
     
  12. Sep 11, 2016 at 2:52 PM
    #12
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    Here's a little teaser, moving into the rear now.....

    image.jpg
     
  13. Sep 11, 2016 at 3:19 PM
    #13
    TravlingmanTN

    TravlingmanTN "Nice hooters!"

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    Looks pretty good! What wheels and tires are you running?
     
  14. Sep 11, 2016 at 4:49 PM
    #14
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    American Racing Baja Wheels, 16/8. Made a mistake with the backspacing, so I wont be able to run these without wheel spacers. The tires are Toyo Open County R/Ts, 265/75R16. I love the combo.
     
  15. Sep 11, 2016 at 9:38 PM
    #15
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    Just wanted to give a little rundown in case anyone has the same issue as me. I had a difficult time finding a good how-to that covered all the bases. Not a full write up, but it covers the issues I had.

    To remove the original shock, disconnect the sway bar, loosen the LCA bolts, and disconnect the LCA from the ball joint. This will allow you to push the LCA down out of the way and easily remove the old shock and install the new one.

    Insert the new shock, hold it in place with the three top bolts, do not torque. Use a bottle jack to lower the UCA (see image). This will allow you to easily reconnect the the LCA to the ball joint.

    At this point you can slowly raise the UCA by compressing the bottle jack until the LCA lines up with the lower bolt of the shock. It will slide right in. Remove the bottle jack and re-torque all the bolts.

    I also found the craftsman hi-lift jack stands to work perfectly, would have been a struggle with standard height stands. They were $31.

    IMG_4532.jpg
     
    ruffridha9 likes this.
  16. Sep 14, 2016 at 9:54 AM
    #16
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    Final product. Did some plastidipping and got a new grille as well.

    after.jpg
     
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  17. Sep 14, 2016 at 10:13 AM
    #17
    Bluegrass Taco

    Bluegrass Taco Politically incorrect low tech redneck

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    The first time you do one of these installs, it's a bitch. 2nd one, you'll be a pro! I'm on #9. Front and rear install down to 2-1/2 hours.

    BTW, truck looks great!
     
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  18. Sep 14, 2016 at 1:10 PM
    #18
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    ^Thank you! I'm very happy with the result! The second side was definitely easier than the first.

    Just got an alignment, it was wayyyy off haha.

    alignment.jpg
     
  19. Sep 15, 2016 at 1:23 AM
    #19
    3coma

    3coma my kid says my truck is "Boss"

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    Had the same issue as OP getting the ball joint bolted back up to the lca. I used a ratchet strap through the uca and around the lca to get them back together. Just another way to skin a cat.
     
    tamer[OP] likes this.
  20. Mar 3, 2017 at 9:47 AM
    #20
    tamer

    tamer [OP] hamerworx.com

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    Did a little bit of wheeling last weekend, can't wait to get back out there...

    file-1.jpg
    file1-1.jpg
    file2.jpg
    file3.jpg
    file4.jpg
    file5.jpg
    file6.jpg
     
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