NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Since we are on the parts discussion does anyone need any of the following stock parts off a Black 2015 DCSB Offroad:

-Front Bumper (black with fogs)
-Rear Bumper (Chrome)
-UCA's
-Front and rear shocks

Figure I'd ask local before listing.

 

Because if you plan on going to extended travel they flex more then the ball joint. Standard travel the SPC ones work well

 

what weight oil are you guys using up here?

the napa in town sells Amsoil and was trying to figure out if 0w-30 was ok even though Ive always used 5w-30 every time. never used Amsoil before either since it had to be ordered, always did mobil1 synthetic. everything points to amsoil being really good though.

thoughts?

 

I've always used whats on my dipstick, I think 5w-30. Synthetic of course

 

Now im being crucified for wheel spacer. Screw the buy sale trade forum

 

yea same, its always been 5w30

 

I use mobil 1 5w-30. Costco usually has it on sale every few months.

 

Nope.

Yeah. Ball joints can't hold up to the extra travel of removed sway bars and heavy off-road use. Let alone extended travel coilovers

 

I originally went with LR UCA's because they were ball joints and had the "promise" of low maintenance, low noise and were cheaper. Well, the ball joints were toast at 13,000 miles on them (although I didn't figure out what my front end clunk was until about 20,000 miles on the ball joints.) I added sway bar drop brackets chasing that damn clunk, and it was likely the early stages of ball joint failure.

LR did me a solid and sent me new ball joints (minus core return shipping charges) even after 3 years. But the new ones are greasable, and they want grease every 5,000 miles or so. If I have to get up under there to grease them every so often, I might as well have uniballs. I'm running 33" load range E tires (heavy!), and I honestly don't think the LR's are up to the demands of that.

Also, I think my left LR UCA is squeaking when the suspension cycles, so now I'm looking at disassembling it to check the condition of the bushings. I'm guessing the grease is totally gone, even though it is supposed to be "lifetime" grease. Again, if the maintenance schedule is going to match or be similar to uniballs, I'd rather have uniballs. Frankly, if I'm pulling them to look at bushings, I might as well have a new set ready to install at the same time. Dump my LR's on the Buy/Sell/Trade and be done with them. Want a pair for $300? Brand new ball joints, about 1,500 miles on them!

My usage wouldn't be classified as anything near hardcore, so the ball joints and bushings shouldn't be anywhere near close to done yet. I like the adjustability of them, and the price was a nice attraction at first. But "buy once, cry once" seems to be true in this case.

My current suspension is the full OME kit all around. It works pretty well for me, even though I daydream about King/Fox/ADS (with absolutely no need for that level of performance.) I build a mid-travel setup on DSM's website every month or so, skipping the rear lift (already have Dakars) and maybe looking at Dirt King full heim UCA's or TC UCA's.

But then I ask myself why the heck would I spend that kind money on a suspension for a truck that 85% of the time is a pavement pounder? Although I have another clunk or knocking noise coming from the rear I need to diagnose some more. I thought it was the Dakar spring bushings, which I had Mule replace last week. Clunk is still there, so it wasn't that. When will it ever end?

 

https://youtu.be/UkJehlr1tEw

 

back to my own topic: i wonder if running 0w30 will hurt anything in the fall/winter time here in WA compared to AL/GA where it was MUCH warmer

 

No I run it in the 05 4runner since new...no problems

 

I don't see the point from varying from the recommended viscosity oil? We don't face extreme temperatures.....

 

I'm assuming he is asking because what they have available is 0w-30......

 

It's for mpg savings.... snake oil