URD Y Pipe install

Ok, I know I'm being all pushy and I'm trying to remain calm and not freak out and tell you to post everything he said....

So I will calmly and politely ask you to post his "solution" via screenshot of the email (less typing for you) if you would be so kind, please sir.

 

Sorry to hear that... completely understand, life always comes first.

 

It was very simple. Loosen all joints, raise up the tail of the y pipe about 2.5 inches, retighten all connections. Then the pipe should drop about 1.5 inches giving an inch of clearance. Hope it works but my concern is the extra stress on the studs that connect to the down pipe could cause a shearing off in the future. We shall see.

 

If it does infact raise the pipe off the cross member, I guess you could weld the two flanges together for additional strength... not ideal if you ever had to remove one piece or the other, but definitely more supportive.

 

I... Can't... Wait... Any... Longer.... I'm to weak...

*Clicks Order Button*


Should be here Friday or Saturday hopefully. Will be taking the y-pipe and Magnaflow muffler & black tip to exhaust shop here in Houston with a Mandrel bender. If there is any fitment issues at all, may be able to cut the y-pipe, put it on the Mandrel machine, increase the bend slightly and weld it back together. Hopefully wont have to do this, but as a last resort. Once everything is welded up in place, I will take pics and video/sound clips and upload here.

 

Just got back and Gadget's suggestion worked as there is no more rubbing on the cross member. We loosened all 3 of the clamps and jacked the y pipe so that the top was hitting the frame and retightened all clamps. Then we lowered it back down and only ended up with about a half inch of clearance. I really wanted an inch so we next loosened the bolts on the cross member and used a crow bar to pry it down and retightened the bolts. It only gave a tiny bit more but it was all I could do. Driving it home under all conditions did not produce any rubbing. My last test will be when I hit a speed bump to see if it hits the cross member. This is a great upgrade that gives both power and gas mileage.

 

You have it with the stock exhaust right now correct? If so, can you post a video maybe this weekend. I'll be putting mine on with a 3" Magnaflow this weekend... Would be a nice comparison for everyone.

 

I have it with the TRD Pro cat back exhaust and the TRD performance intake. As far as videos go, I don't think I could produce anything that would be useful. Now I am looking at some other performance upgrades. It can be addicting.

 

Aawww... That would be a awesome comparison. Toyota TRD vs. aftermarket. I have the aFe intake.

Glad you got it fixed, more or less, at least.

What other performance upgrades are out right now? I know URD has the "power" pipes or whatever in the works... I'm sure Doug Thorny is working on some kind of headers as well.

 

Sorry OP i don't mean to thread jack, but how is the afe intake?

 

Other performance upgrades could include lighter wheels and tires, an aluminum or carbon fiber drive shaft, and porting and polishing the heads. Porting and polishing the heads would increase HP by 25-30HP and increase MPG since it would be more effficient but it would void the engine warranty. I will have to think hard about that.

 

Do y'all think it's worth it to cut the flange off the URD Y-pipe, and add a 4" long flex coupling and v-band to connect it to the muffler pipe?

Keep going back and forth on wether to add the flex coupling & v-band, or leave it as is and just bolt up to stock flange. I know there's some tapering of the URD Y-pipe flange (looks like 2.5" down to 2.25" at the flange itself)... Just don't know if the juice is worth the squeeze.

 

That Doug Thorny is one fart smeller. I wonder if his design will include a flex coupling? Should be good for 20hp, plus 5 more if you add a sticker to the back window.

 

That would be your decision but on mine it bolted up perfectly to my TRD cat back. The URD y pipe flange has been welded on using TIG welding which is high quality so it would be a waste to cut it off, at least to me. You have to go with what works best for you and try not to over think it.

 

Yeah, I'm not worried about fitmit issues, as I would use the stock exhaust flange (opposite the URD one)... Just wondering if a V-band is worth it; supposed to be the best type of coupling there is.

 

Y-Pipe is in... Took some trial and error, and a little customizing, but got it in.

Had to trim like 1" (maybe a little less) off the driver side short pipe peice that fits into the larger y-pipe part... Otherwise we couldn't get the driver side flange to line up.
Was able to keep the bend off the cross-member by shoving a rubber hanger peice between the two, until everything was bolted and tightened and welded, and then removed the rubber piece. No touching, vibrating or anything else as of yet, and I've gone over a couple speeds bumps already.

Ran into a another problem while connecting the flange pipe peice of the y-pipe to the larger y-pipe peice... Because the y-pipe was sitting high enough to keep it off the cross-member (not really that high), the shorter 12" flange peice was now too high and could not be bolted into the larger pipe without hitting the center cross member... OK, figured this would be a good place for the flex coupling, so welded that in were the two pipes meet, and put a slight bend in the smaller pipe so it could be routed under that cross member without touching, and still be straight underneath it. Most of the downward angle is at the flex pipe, but the pipe is bent a little to straighten back out... If that makes sense.

Anyway, cut the flange off the y-pipe, added a short reducer/enlarger (2.5" -> 3"), and welded that to a V-band.

So yeah, had to do a little customizing to get it all in, but worked out well in the end, with the added parts of flex coupling and v-band I consider a bonus/upgrade to the y-pipe.

I actually think the y-pipe is more raised in front of the cross-member than the stock one was... Maybe because I had it raised higher to begin with, which may have lead to the aforementioned middle cross-member issue. But you can see in the pics that it's nice and high in front of the cross-member.

As far as sound... Cant tell if the y-pipe added tone or not, as I added the muffler and resonator at the same time. But altogether, it is a pretty aggressive sound. Went with the bottle/performance style resonator. If I find I want to quite it down more in the future, I'll probably swap out resonators with the Ultra Quite version.

Here's some pics, will upload sound clips tomorrow if I can... Exhaust pipe is drying tonight, as I spray painted the pipe by the tip black with high temp spray paint eariler this evening, so it blends in nice and neat with the black tip and truck.

 

Maybe it's just me but it seems like for almost $500, these shouldn't require all these modifications. Has anyone done it with stock exhaust? I really want to buy URD or have my buddy's shop fabricate one.

 

You DON'T! It's people not following instruction and installing it correctly. Just like ANY aftermarket Y-pipe, catback, uppipe, or exhaust change, you have to leave everything loose enough to twist and turn all the pipes to where they don't rub before tightening up. It's in the instructions and if You go back through to the OP solution, that's exactly what he was told to do to fix the pipe hitting crossmember.

 

agreed

why pay $500 for a y wipe that you still need to get customized to fit properly etc when you can just get a custom exhaust for the same price if not less.

 

I haven't read through the whole thing but I know it was mentioned with this still didn't clear for an exhaust re route exhaust. was wondering if this is now fixed