TORSPD: NEVR

You'll still need to disconnect the steering shaft though.

 

Yeah I'm not too scared about that looks simple

 

Any tips you guys can give me? looks fairly easy once you take the tires and splash guards off but was wondering if you guys had trouble with anything.

 

Just the studs coming out of the heads. Removed two or three closest to the firewall on the driver side. One or two on the passneger.

Mark the coupling so that you line up the steering shaft back to where it was.

 

You guys don't happen to know if a 12 point socket will work with the Torx studs? or should I just buy a Torx socket?

 

I used a six sided socket. That might work, but always safer with the correct tool. Which I have now.

 

buy torx. It's all about surface area

 

Drivers side sucks. Took me like 30 min of finagle time to get it to slip into that hole.

 

Tor

A few weeks ago you were nice enough to answer some of my questions and I went ahead and bought the URD y pipe. There has been a definite improvement in power and gas mileage which was a nice benefit. There has been no rasp or any drone at highway speeds. Unfortunately, I got busted when my wife found out so I had to buy her some jewelry to make up for it. It was still worth it though.

Now I have another question about another mod I am considering. I have read that a good port and polish job can add 10% HP and improve gas mileage as well. Since you have done this I wanted your thoughts on it. My truck has only 8k miles and plenty of warranty left but if is done right it should not cause any engine problems.

 

I would be curious how a port/polish will affect the Atkinson cycle.. hmm

 

It's not worth the hassle to disassemble an engine that is already running fine unless you truly want to build up the engine at the same time.

 

I don't know which is why I was trying to draw upon the knowledge of people who know a lot more than I do.

 

I may want to do that also like titanium valves etc.

 

You won't see any benefit from those

 

I feel like if you stick to runners, and plenums, you could get away with a port/polish, but just stay away from combustion chambers. That is, of course, if you have the technical knowledge to successfully achieve your mod. You will need a flow bench, a sonic thickness gauge, carbide bits and polishing stones, and balls. I'm sure these heads are not cheap yet, and if you happened to break through a runner divider, or into a cooling passage, you'll be shit out of luck.

 

I would never try it myself even though the youtube videos make it look so simple. I talked to 2 master techs at the Toyota dealer I go to and they recommended a guy in town who specializes in head work. There are also several places out of town that specialize in this.

 

Well, having worked as a Toyota tech, I would be careful what any 'master techs' tell you. They are usually much less than masters.

I would steer clear of doing this until you are close to the end of your warantee. This engine doesn't have the track record that the other engines toyota offers has, and you may end up snowballing a problem into existance.. @Torspd will have his own answer, but this is my suggestion

 

Thanks for your advise, especially since you were a toyota tech!

 

Id also highly reccomend getting ahold of a second engine to build with, that way when the built one blows up (and thats a definite when, not if) you still have a working motor to drop back in.