Manual Door Locks, Windows & Mirrors to Power Retrofit-Conversion [BUILD THREAD/WRITE-UP]

Oops, I meant to say Power Window Master Switch, as well as the power mirror switch. They both have some proprietary connector on the back of them. Let me get this straight, the point where you cut the existing wiring harness were only for 12v pos/neg? What wires were coming out of the donor door?

Do you think you could draw a diagram? I was just going to use aftermarket install kits but now that I know an OEM retrofit is possible I want to go for that route.

 

I'll see if I can make you a diagram later.

Simply said, get everything in the door just as it is... all the wires that run in the door and any connectors that are attached and whatever they're attached to.

Once the wires leave the door and go back into the cab, you may find another connector somewhere not too far into the cab. Get both sides of that connector and cut a little ways beyond that. If there isn't a connector close by, I'd recommend finding one that looks like it would work somewhere else on the truck and cutting that out to use. You may not find you ever need to break the line between the fuse box and the door, but if you do you'll be glad for that connector.

 

I see, so the connector is simply for convenience (in case the doors need to be disconnected?) You said you didn't find anywhere to plug in the door wiring harness so you just connected it to 12v. How many wires come out of each door? From what I understand, 4 wires run out of the driver's side door. 2 Wires for main power (12v positive and negative to the power source) and 2-4 wires run to the passenger door (for power and signal presumably). Could you elaborate on this?

 

Im going to be selling my whole setup if someone is interested. I'd have to look into what I paid for the door skins and door harnesses.



I think you would need to go to a pick and pull and get the ecm and wire harness from the dash. Also I'm on the boat for 3 more weeks so I couldn't ship till then.

 

SUPER interested. How would you go about hooking this up to a '98? Is a new ECM necessary? This is a direct fit onto the existing door? Does this include all the power options like windows, locks, and mirrors?

 

Right, simply for convenience. And also right, I couldn't find anywhere to plug the connector in, so I just used the other half of the connector as I snagged it from Pull-a-Part to wire into 12v and ground. Look at QMEDJoe's picture of the harnesses laid out in his tailgate above. You can see the "convenience" connectors I'm referring to in his picture. They emerge about 6 inches past the flexible rubber sleeve that goes in between the door and cab. There are two there... I imagine one is for the windows/locks/mirrors and one if for the speaker. I did not have a speaker in the door on my pre-Taco, so I only had one. Again, my pre-Taco did not have a connector just laying around to plug into. But, I wouldn't be surprised if there is on a Tacoma given than they made so many with power windows. There were very few pre-Tacos made with power windows. At any rate, if you buy the panels and harness from QMED and a connector is not present, just see what type you need and go cut one off of any Toyota at your local salvage yard.

You do not need to get a new ECM for this install. All QMEDJoe's wires should be a direct fit, but be sure the door panels themselves actually fit up to your doors. There were differences in door lengths in the pre-Tacos... I assume there are on Tacos (e.g., between regular and extra-cabs) but have never measured to be sure. If his panels work, just getting all that from him would be very convenient, especially if he can give you lock actuators, window regulators, and power mirrors.

I do not remember how may wires came out of the door, and since I didn't do power locks I probably didn't use some of the wires. But yes, you'll have to get power and signal over to the passenger door and probably return one wire back to complete the circuit. I assume you're electrically inclined since you're considering tackling this. If so, just trace the wires to the component they're controlling. That will tell you what you need to hook up and where. If you get the harness and can get me a good picture of it, I could tell you exactly what you need to run. Actually, that would probably be more helpful to you than me trying to diagram for you from memory what wires I ran on my truck.

 

I wouldn't really know all the details about hooking them up. I think it would involve getting an ecm and the wiring harness that goes behind the dash. The power mirrors are not included but we can do a deal on those as well. They weren't really all that expensive anyhow. I bought them off of EBay. I purchased all this stuff in the hope that it was plug and play because that's what I was told. I tore it all apart and it was not. What is not in the picture is the power window regulators which I also have. I will post a pic of what they look like here.

 

I was talking to another member who offered his full power door setup as well, and he told me there SHOULD be a connector to plug into behind each kick panel below the connector for the speakers. (Connector 2) This would make the conversion basically plug-n-play. Unfortunately while my Taco did have the plastic housing and room for two connector, it did not have the power door connector and only the speaker connector.

Would I still be able to do the conversion without them? Pictured are the two connectors for speaker and power door behind the kickplate (I lack connector 2, but have connector 1)



Here's the harness (I'm presuming the one with two wires is for the speaker). That's a helluva lot of wires for JUST signal and power to the other door. Does the ECU do anything concerning the power doors?

 

So that picture showing the labeled connectors 1 and 2 is not your truck? How many wires are coming out of that connector #2 on the door side? It probably makes sense that there are so many. You've got some power going in and a negative/ground going out, but you not only have wires for the windows going to the passenger door, but also those for the locks and the mirror. For that reason, it's probably right that there should be a buttload of wires in connector #2... perhaps a dozen?

 

Nope this was an example truck showing the connector that I lack. I only have connector 1 which is for the speakers. These are the pictures a user sent me. By looking at it, you're right it's at least a dozen wires.

Wait a minute, wouldn't each power component (mirror, window, warning lights, lock, etc.) each have a ground and a power wire?? That would account for at least 8 wires, with the other 4 presumably for signal.

Here's the harnesses and parts:

 

I just whipped out the Haynes repair manual for the locks and windows. I was right in saying violet and pink wires are for the speakers. Now I can't read schematics for crap. How hard would it be if I cut off a female connector off another truck and wire it up so that it works off 12v? I'm guessing for things like the lock system and warning light is that I'd need a constant 12v so it's powered all the time, and for things like the mirror and window can use a 12v source for when the key is in ACC.

Would it be that simple? Connecting each accessory to a 12v power source?

The power window diagram talks about a Door Lock ECU, is this the main engine control unit or something else? Would I need a new ECU to run power locks?

 

my Yaris had the basics, but I ended up installing pwr lock actuators so that I could install a keyless entry 2 way system. I still had roll down windows and manual locks, but I could use a remote to lock/unlock

 

Do you still have all the power windows and locks parts? Those door panels are tan and not grey correct?

 

No they're grey but someone already has dibs on them. "Rancho Toyota Recycling" in Cali will most likely have what your looking for, Their in Cali and ship next day. If they don't have it, it wont be too long before they eventually do.

 

I decided I wanted to do this properly (and not use crappy aftermarket motors, actuators, and shiz) so I found a wrecked '04 Limited and pulled all the door components out of each door. I also went behind the kick panel and cut as much of the door connector harnesses as I could so I could unplug them and remove the doors if need be.

The passenger's side door got caved in from the accident and the window regulator got bent beyond repair so I need to pick up a new one. Motor is still good so I should be fine.

I've been looking at wiring diagrams of the factory service manuals and it doesn't look too bad. 12v in the right places, and signal cables spliced in the right places and you have power everything. I didn't bother using the original alarm and remote key module so I'm going to use a Viper alarm and remote entry module to control the lock actuators. (Would be way too complicated and involve swapping the whole truck wiring harness, B-ECU, and ECU.)

Here's the truck I got them off of:





It's @DRFTR's truck, if anyone needs some parts from a nice '04 Limited Doublecab.

 

Here's some of the work I have done identifying each wire and where they go. I still have to identify two of the other connectors and where they go but it's getting somewhere. The 2004 FSM that's stickied at the top of this forum is a huge help.

Anyone know what the proper gauge wire I should be using for power and signal should be? I will be soldering/splicing to the kick panel connector harness I cut off from the donor truck.

 

Making some progress! Thanks to @mechanicjon I managed to figure out the locking system. This system schematic will operate the power lock actuators in conjunction with an aftermarket negative trigger keyless entry system with the absence of the factory body ECU/Integration Module. It's controlled by a cheap $16 dollar lock module, and two 30/40 amp relays.



Here's the schematic for the aftermarket lock system I'm using.

 

In the words of Sgt Shultz "I know nothINgG!!!!"

 

Holy shiz, grasshopper. I didn't think you were gonna really pull it off at first. It looks like you're doing it all the right way. No easy task. Electrical automotive work is an 'acquired taste'. Seems horrible at first, but once you get the basics down it's not that bad really. Nice work bro

 

Haha thanks! You're right about that, it really isn't easy at all. It's a lot of staring at the FSM wiring diagrams, labeling, and trial and error. Can't stress this enough I wouldn't be where I am without @mechanicjon's guidance. Man is a wiring genius!

Here's a sneak peak at the power window schematic I'm working on.