NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Yes, other forums suck. I've tried to find a decent one for dodge, but they all seem to be very quiet, full of ads, and half the people are more offs (too dumb to be morons).
I'll try to look under my truck to see what muffler I have soon. Driving now. I have 06 ram 1500 with hemi 5.7

 

Old posts, but this seems to keep coming up every hundred posts or so. And I read not long ago that some guy said run away cause they are just new UCA's with factory ball joints.
Umm, no.

The LR UCA do allow full function of extended-travel coilovers, same as uniballs. I've talked to both Wheeler's and SPC and they have confirmed it repeatedly. I think they said they have around 80 degrees of movement (more than stock and uniballs) and are 25% bigger than factory. I can also attest personally, as I've been running extended-travel CO's, no sway bar and the LR UCA's for years now with full-travel and no problems whatsoever. Are they the best for everybody and ideal for the Baja 1000? Of course not. But they've taken some serious hits without issue, no noise or alignment problems, and offer some awesome features and benefits for the price. Seem like a decent option to me.

Hope you all are having a great weekend!

 

I'm just saying mine couldn't handle one trip with sway Bar removed and eibachs and billys.... they'd drooped out till they touched the coil.

 

Got a youtube link?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx-NT1DEtlU

 

Ok, I gotta pipe up here. LRs are not for the avid off roader. If you look at all of the failures of the joint, vs failures of uniballs, it pretty much makes the point.
Yes, the sealed ball is maintenance free, but definitely not as strong.
Yes, the uniballs, eventually rattle, but having a trail breakdown vs more maintenance is just the price of having a more reliable joint.
If you are an occasional off-roader, the LRs are very nice. If you don't want to replace one on the trail, I would recommend uniball.

 

I must be an oddball. I've had mine on since 2013, with about 60,000+ miles. I even beaten them in the desert in SoCal. and haven't had any issues, except the top nut shifting if I hit a rock or stump.

 

They did re-design or redo something with the ball joint to make them better like 2 years ago

 

Just saw on the news a Snowmobiler lost his life up by Gallagher Head in an avalanche today

 

The Toyota OEM ones are actually pretty damn good. I mostly just went off the thread on here. Bought a bunch in bulk for lower pricing too.

I do use Fram on the car, mower, and right now on the SBC for the FJ40. The mower only cause it was the cheapest and it only gets ~60 hours of use a season. The car cause..who knows The FJ40 cause i needed an oil change and it was all that orielys had in stock at the time


If you ever really want to nerd out on oil go to bobistheoilguy.com

 

Been a couple Avy deaths in the region the last couple days. Its Considerable Danger (highest) in the Gallagher Head area and quite a good portion of the state. The fore casted snow is only going to make it worse so hopefully people start smart.

Still sucks to hear. The other guy he was with survived

 

I'm old, so I might be behind the times a bit.

 

It was when you tried to crank start your taco that gave it away. We have electric starters now.

 

Its okay we'll make exceptions for you

 

Has anyone had issues with diff oil coming out the front breather tube on 2nd gens? I know it was an issue with 1st gens. I get no oil driving around town but 30 minutes on the freeway it starts coming out. I'm assuming I just put a bit too much oil in but wanted to get a few others thoughts?

 

how much oil?

 

Idk not that much but it looks like a lot. Ha a little oil always looks like a lot but it bugs the shit out of me that it's leaking oil that way. The reason I think it just overfilled possibly is because it's only doing when it warm and expanding

 

Did you relocate the stock breather, or just run a hose up there? I think I remember something about there being a checkvalve in there. That would do it.

 

No it's still the stock breather on the front diff that's up in the engine bay.

 

I'll bet if you got rid of that breather it would solve that.