120K maintenance plus some upgrades...

I've got a long laundry list of maintenance items I'm getting ready to do, and I need to know if I'm missing anything. I'm shooting for the nth degree of preventative maintenance right now, as well as upgrading and tightening up the suspension a little.

Coolant flush
Brake fluid flush
front/rear diff oil change
transfer case oil change
engine oil change (just for the heck of it, even though I only did it 2500ish ago-might as well while I'm doing everything)
clean MAF and throttle body

New spark plugs
New air filters (cabin and engine-OEM filters)
New fan belt

Bilstein 5100 shocks on all 4 corners
Wheelers HD 2" AAL

Poly replacement steering bushings
replacement coil isolators
poly spacer for drivers side to eliminate drivers side lean
Both headlights since the DRL has burned through the lens on both sides.

ANYTHING I'm missing? Anything else I could benefit from upgrading/replacing? I just got through replacing both front wheel bearings, and brakes are in good condition, with half their life left. No major issues or problems, I just like staying very on top of maintenance.

 

Lube driveshafts, service/adjust rears.

I'd leave the drive belt unless it's noisy, the idler bearings will let you know when its time to change the belt.

If you're going super long term see what your local dealer charges for a transmission service.

 

New body mount bushings

 

new carrier bearing and sway bar bushing(if installed) upper and lower ball joints

 

Steering pump oil change

 

How hard is it to lube the driveshafts? And adjust the rear brakes? never done either.

new body mount bushings-I thought about it, but I'm inclined to pass right now. Truck's never been wheeled hard, and from my reading I think this is a relatively unnecessary replacement at this point in it's life. Thoughts? anybody disagree?

carrier bearing got replaced at 90K so I'm guessing it's good now.
I've got the sway bar still installed and plan on keeping it that way...good idea on the bushings! Ball joints-I'm going to check them out tomorrow before I decide.

Steering pump oil change is also an excellent idea.

 

my ball joints were shot @ 90k with abuse though

 

fwiw my truck hasn't seen any abuse. it's towed a decent amount, and it's hauled a normal light truck-amount of loads around in it but that's it. Rarely even goes off the pavement unfortunately.

I hate that you suggested ball joints because now I'm going to start thinking about them. Now I'm also thinking more about body mounts and I think I'm going to do them too. might as well.

 

just check them. if your boots are ripped then it's time to replace

 

When did you last change transmission fluid? Towing reduces the service interval because of transmission heating.

The radiator bushings go way before the body mounts and are much easier to replace. I'd replace those before worrying about the body mounts.

Good luck with all the work!

 

if you have original wheel bearings and u joints check them carefully.......

 

I'll just check them today. I have a feeling they're fine but I'll go over them carefully.

I had a transmission service and fluid change around 90-100k. I'm at 120,xxx right now. I did wonder about a transmission fluid change as well. I don't tow heavy loads, but I do tow on occasion. Probably more than most people. Probably 1-3 trips every 3-4 weeks. Most of those loads are probably around 2000-3000 lbs. Thoughts on the fluid change?
What's the practical benefit from changing out the radiator bushings and/or body mounts? Will handling be tightened up and improved?

Both wheel bearings have been done. Drivers side about a month ago, and passenger side is being done this morning. How do I check the u joints? And what would replacing them look like?

Thanks for the help y'all! I needed some other eyes on my maintenance list before I started buying parts.

 

My 2005 has 219,000 km (136k miles) and when it was in for the frame swap I bought a bunch of front end parts and it didn't need them. Inner and outer tie rods, rack and pinion bushings, rear brakes and hardware, driveshaft carrier bearing, and upper ball joints. My truck was used pretty hard, or at least it had lots of dirt everywhere. Id check parts and if not worn leave them be.

I and doing a simple trans fluid drain and fill, plan on doing that a couple times with 10k inbetween to try and get most of the old fluid out.

 

Recommended interval when towing is 60K for an automatic and 30K for a manual. So if you have an AT you should be just fine if you did service at 90K.

There are two approaches to AT service though. One is to do a full flush less frequently (say 60K to 90K interval) and the other is to do just a drain and fill more frequently (say 30K to 60K). Drain and fill only replaces about 1/4 to 1/3 of the fluid so the idea is to do that more frequently and effectively slowly change out the fluid over multiple service intervals. Some people feel a flush can produce more problems than it solves and prefer the drain and fill over time approach. There are about three or four different ways to "flush" a transmission and so perhaps some techniques are better than others.

Toyota is zero help in sorting this out. Dealers don't even agree on a service interval and if you ask if you should flush or just drain and fill the answer is flush from dealers that have flushing equipment and drain and fill from those that don't.

Not sure on the body as the few I've seen changed here on TW the OEM were still in pretty good condition.

The OEM radiator ones are really weak and even some pretty low mileage vehicles have them already crushed and tearing. Replacing can tighten up the front end but more importantly the excessive play in worn OEM bushings stresses some weak supports around the battery supports and can cause the thin metal there to start to tear. Common problem for vehicles that go off-road. Your vehicle doesn't sound like it would see the shock loads an off road vehicle does so your battery mounts are probably just fine but I'd expect the bushings to still look like worn out junk by now. Energy Suspension offers some better quality radiator bushings which will last longer than the OEM.

Again the body bushings seem to last a lot longer and are also much more annoying to change so I'd skip those unless you really suspect you have a problem there.

 

Good on the transmission. Auto here, sounds like I'm fine. I'm 90% sure I had my transmission flushed when I did it last, I didn't use the stealership, I went to my local mechanic who I trusted, and who does plenty of work on Toyotas. Either way, it sounds like I'm completely fine for now, I"ll probably move to doing my own drain and fills in my driveway around 150K.

Also sounds like I'm good on the body mounts. I don't have an issue here. I'm honestly fishing for maintenance items to avoid issues down the road. I know I've put enough miles on my truck since I got it that I will start having some more issues, and that the handling will also start showing signs of slop and wear if I DON'T do preventative maintenance. I'll just replace the radiator bushings and leave the body mounts alone.

I'm also using this as an opportunity to improve my recovery/emergency gear inventory and storage systems in my truck, so the fewer parts I buy, the more I can invest in some other stuff.

Looking at adding 2 fire extinguishers, improving my truck first aid kit to include more trauma related items, and adding a logging chain and more basic recovery gear in preparation for the addition of a winch next year.

I know that's a lot for someone who doesn't off-road, but preparedness is a major priority for me. My truck is my bugout bag.

 

If you haven't already, rip out those worthless plastic bins behind the rear seats. Opens up way, way, way more space for "always in the truck" items.

Sounds like a good plan on the maintenance.

 

read my mind! literally the first thing that's happening before I even start working on the truck. I've stuffed so much survival and emergency stuff back there I can't fit anymore, but I've got a lot more that needs to go back there. So those plastic bins are going OUT.

 

What's does it cost to flush the fluids (brake,coolant,trans)? I'm in AZ if anyone is from that area

 

I can't remember off the top of my head how much I paid for a tranny flush....I want to say 130ish though.
Brake flush has cost me 40ish in the past. I wouldn't be surprised to be charged more like 60-90 though. 40's pretty low.
Not sure on coolant.

Purchasing fluids for yourself, you could probably get everything you needed for all of those flushes for under 100. Those are all ballpark prices. If you're getting the work done, I'd call a few places and get their pricing.

 

Appreciate it, probably figure it out myself and save a few bucks