Is the 4.0 Supercharger worth it?

128K on mine and she's not showing any signs of slowing down!

 

your truck weighs more than that 4220lbs i bet, hop on a scale yet?

6/6.5PSI stock 3" pulley is average but can vary depending on altitude iirc, and exhaust components I believe.

HP, I havent been on a dyno and the truck has more than just the blower, so my numbers wont reflect just the blower.

mpg is unaffected unless your beating on the truck...........if ur mpg drops off the face of the earth, its your fault, somethings wrong, towing/hauling, or you have a 75mph headwind. I get 21 highway normally.
The blower uses 1/3 or 1/2 of a hp when its not making boost. LITERALLY a fraction of a horsepower when not in demand per EATONs website.
Now, when you drop the hammer, it may be substantial draw. I went looking on Eatons site and its all screwed up right now so i cannot tell you.

cost was around 4 grand I think?

 

Short answer yes. It's so nice to be able to pass cars easily in 5th or 6th (I have a MT). I love that I can control when the truck is in boost, so the gas mileage hasn't taken a hard hit. If your goal is to have your truck to have 'the right amount' of power/torque, then yes, invest in a SC. Magnuson now offers financing, I bought mine through Paypal credit (0% APR for 6 months). I think ~$4,500 for a SC is a deal. Many other SC kits for other performance cars are around $9,000-$14,000 (granted they're pushing 9-12 PSI).

 

the 2.85 pulley can get you to 8.5psi roughly.
Its good for between 1.5 and 2 psi above the 3" stocker. IF you were wanting closer to that 9psi number you posted..... course u can go extreme with the 2.55 but thats another topic

 

I have the 2.85 pulley. If URD ever releases the UCON for the later models I may go a little further down the rabbit hole.

 

Couple footnotes. Some very obvious.

-TRD Blower is initially an expensive unit if buying brand new.

- As far as upgrades go I'd highly recommend the 2.85" pulley. They give the blower the extra pep that they should have had in factory form.

- If doing any mods past the blower in factory form, especially the 2.85" pulley, the stock fuel pump may not be capable of handling the correct fuel volume, or maintaining proper pressure when demanded. An Aeromotive or AEM green top is highly recommended.

- The blower for the Tacoma is one of the safest blowers I have seen released as an "aftermarket" bolt on add on for any vehicle out there. Been running mine for close to, 30K with no issues whatsoever hitting the boost to max almost everyday.

- If upgrading past 10 psi (someone correct me if I'm wrong on the amount of boost) further upgrades of the transmission valve body, then eventually engine internals, will be required.

- The amount of fuel consumed is purely dependent on the end consumer, as your MPG revolves around how much you bury (or don't) your right foot. The amount of time you spend boosting in the real world is anywhere from 5-10% of the time. The rest of the time, your engine is in vaccuum. The more time you spend in vaccuum the better fuel savings you have.

- 91 octane is required to avoid pinging and knocking, it is true. The amount you spend over regular which is anywhere from $3-5 more, you will save if you skip one morning of buying your coffee.

- In order to optimize and take full advantage of the boost you now have, a set of boost and air fuel ratio gauges are highly recommended. The more info you have at your disposal, the more informed you can be and make better fuel economical decisions.

- Stock air cleaner and air box are a huge bottleneck for this truck when running a blower. It will lower your boost PSI's by about 1- 1.5lbs. Best intake system's to run on these are the AFe, or URD to get the most out of the suction portion of the blower.

- Would I buy the blower again and do what mods I have done to it? (URD 2.85" pulley, URD "ram air" intake, AEM green top fuel pump, boost, and air fuel ratio gauges)

YES. The truck actually has balls now, all in a much shorter package and better city streetability than the current Tundra. Current boost is 8.5lbs on good days.

Take this info for what it is.

 

Do you know how much horsepower you actually are making? Crank or rear wheels? I didn't google anything but I will take you at your word.

 

Tells me you have a supercharger?

 

Yes I do.

 

It was a struggle but I kinda learned after a while to try keep my foot out of it unless needed for economy reasons... and cop reasons too...

 

See I am a good at guessing...my wife lied...she said I was good for nothing.

 

http://www.xr-underground.com/threads/f-i-horsepower-and-supporting-mods.49189/

 

Wow,you are getting into Tundra territory...without the comfort, or towing capacity.

 

?
I have no numbers on there, so im not sure what ur looking at.
I should be around 320 at the wheels without the weight of a tundra, plenty of comfort for us, and no need to tow anything. So i dont quite share your opinion.

 

Ok...tundras..are like sitting on your recliner watching the game...but you are driving to work. And they have what 383/401lb ft?

 

I can park in my garage with ease.

 

I like to here my sensors go off....then I just keep backing up....camera is a better help. This is why you build 3 car garage with a 18' door!

 

What work?
Lmao, keep trying....im quite happy, and if we need more comfort we can just take the camry

 

I had mine dyno'd after the install to check AFRs, and my output was 305 HP, 330 TQ. Happily take that.

 

Thank you for the honesty..and that is great....no lie