D Ring Shackle size?

So what is this "tie down point" rated it? I ask because I pulled a Titan out of the mud with mine with no damage done. No popping of the tow strap just a nice easy pull. Wonder if I was pushing the limits already with that.

 

The welded tie down point is on the drivers side. The loop shown above on sr5 and sport models, as well as the trd offroad hook on the passenger side are rated per the owners manual to tow for short distances on a flat surface.

 

You don't need a receiver shackle. Just use the hitch pin, a tow strop fits neatly into the receiver and the hitch pin clips right through it.

 

These aren't D Rings. They are Bow Shackles.

Stop saying D Rings

Hello

 

And then rips and shears when you don't pull straight behind you

Hello

 

Never seen that happen but I suppose it's possible.

 

Smittybilt markets shackles as "d-rings" its sorta like the strut/shock confusion, and they sorta look like a letter "D" there is that

 

The ARB one is 4 bolts. And from what I understand with theirs it also goes to the frame. Not just the sub frame. It doesn't connect to where the old one was. It's completely new from what I can tell in pictures.

 

I don't think the Bulletproof one is any worse than the stock set up and should be an improvement. It's not ideal, not saying it is.

Those ARB recovery brackets do look nice. It appears to share a couple of tie points with their bumper, which has a bracket that bolts to the frame (they call it the tension bracket) with a 4" long 1/2" bolt on each side.

But I didn't know they were available for Tacomas yet? I know you can get them for Cruiser, Prado/FJ Cruiser/4Runner and Hilux but haven't seen them for Tacomas. Maybe they can figure out a way to get something to work on the driver's side where Toyota didn't even put captured nuts for a hook at all.

 

This is apparently the concept shown at SEMA for the Tacoma ARB recovery point. I do like this a lot. If it's like other ARB points (such as the FJ Cruiser) it'll be about $250. For something engineered and tested I think that's probably not a bad price, although it sure ain't cheap.

 

So I am confused now, both of these points are just tie downs? My understanding is driver's side top is a tie down, passenger side below is recovery point? I was just going to add a shackle to the passenger side for a possible snow recovery with a looped snatch snap, should be adequate.

 

I'm confused as well. So there is no recovery point on the front and I'll have to spend $250 to get one?

 

The welded hoop on the left/driver's side is a tie-down only.

How thick is the right side bolted-on bracket? I've always understood this to be for transport but if the owner's manual says otherwise then I'm willing to admit I'm wrong. If Toyota is putting that on TRD Offroad models then it's presumably OK for light duty recovery.

Old 79-95 trucks had a bracket just like that bolted to the driver's side and it was always said to be for tie-down and the cast hook (similar to the 2nd gen TRD OR hook) bolted to the right side was the recovery point. Everyone just replaced the stamped bracket with a stock hook and, boom, two recovery points.

ETA:

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/...-ideas-for-proper-offroad-recovery-13500.html

 

The 2nd gen TRD hook is cheaper (assuming the bracket is actually not a recovery point, which I admit I may be working on old information at this point) and the Bulletproof Fab bracket is around $100. The ARB would be expensive. So depends on what you feel is sufficient. If ARB is selling theirs I'd feel that would be the safety benchmark on paper.

 

Just occurred to me that probably the best way to deal with this is to put in one of those tow bar, recovery bracket things. Some are manufactured to just be a front receiver and some include shackle clevis.

This is the Mobtown, just for an example.

 

Page 467... interesting it does show the welded loop as a tow point

If a tow truck is not available, in an emergency your vehicle may be temporarily towed using a cable or chain secured to the emergency towing hook. This should only attempted on hard, surfaced roads for short distances at low speeds. If towing is necessary, we recommend having your vehicle towed by your Toyota dealer or a commercial towing service, using a lift-type truck or a flat bed truck. Use a safety chain system for all towing, and abide by all state/provincial and local laws. The wheels and axle on the ground must be in good condition. If they are damaged, use a towing dolly or flat bed truck. Before towing ●The engine is running, but the vehicle will not move. ●The vehicle makes an abnormal sound. Emergency towing (4WD models and PreRunner only) A driver must be in the vehicle to steer and operate the brakes. The vehicle’s wheels, drive train, axles, steering and brakes must be in good condition. Towing hook

 

Before emergency towing, check that the hook is not broken or damaged. NOTICE ■Emergency towing hook precautions ●To avoid damaging the hook, do not pull from the side or at a vertical angle. Always pull straight ahead. ●Fasten the towing cable or chain securely to the hook. ●Do not jerk the hook. Apply steady and even force.

 

Just received this email from my local Toyota parts guy, also a 3rd gen Tacoma owner:

The driver side is a recovery point, the passenger side is a transport hook (rail/car hauler)
Both are used to transport, both can be used for recovery purpose, but driver side is stronger.
hope that helps!

 

I'm reading the manual and this is, to my surprise, correct. The sport model and sr5 loop on the pass side is indeed a tie down, whereas the welded loop is the tow point and the offroad hook is also a tow point . Pg 468 picture shows towing with welded loop, and towing with bridle welded loop and offroad hook

 

http://www.toyota.com/owners/resources/owners-manuals/tacoma/2015 2016+ front end is the same