Pre-crushed exhaust on the new Taco?

So I recently purchased a 2017 Tacoma, crawled underneath, and found this low hanging pre-crushed driver side exhaust. It's only a matter of time before it's totally crushed due to its old man hanging nuts like clearance. What irritates me (in addition to the deformity) is the space between the exhaust tubing and the heat shield. It looks like there is enough room to get an actual circle up there and suck it close for more clearance (and flow).

Is there an available solution to this turd shaped piece, or do I need to fix this myself? Anyone else in my boat?

 

thats factory. exhaust reroute behind the transfer case is your fix. d

 

Read, understand, learn...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/exhaust-reroute.425356/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/urd-y-pipe-install.475290/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/doug-thorley-y-pipe-and-down-tubes-for-3rd-gen.479616/

 

That would take reconfiguring the y pipe and this section. I would rather replace this small section and solve the issue than screwing with the y pipe and everything downstream.

Anyone make a part that just replaces this small section?

 

No. It would be a custom job. And why would you, you'll lose even more ground clearance. Trust me, you're not losing any performance or fuel economy with that small section. Only reason to mess with stock exhaust is if you do a re-route to gain the 1-1/2" in ground clearance.

 

This was from the second post on the first link...

 

That's factory bud. Truck seems to operate fine with it...... might want to change it if you are worried about banging it on rocks though.

 

Factory horsepower reducer.....

 

Unless that is stainless which I doubt, they now have a mix of stainless and aluminumized pipe.

 

Squishing a pipe doesn't change it's volume capacity.

I saw it on mythbusters.

 

They beat the piss outta these headers and it made very little impact on performance:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=azPKIjxmmdU

 

This sounds crazy, but for low hanging exhaust areas they often use a lower profile section of exhaust tubing than your standard round pipe.

It's not pre-crushed, it's purposely designed that way.

 

lol I get that it's factory. I'm saying pre crushed because it's going to be crushed all the way eventually.

 

Just follow myth busters and go ahead and smash it almost flat. Better aero, better clearance = awesome. What could go wrong!

 

4runner is the same way

 

With about 400 miles on my 17' dcsb OR I paid a local muffler shop to do the re-route. I was interested in the URD pipe but someone said it hung down even lower than the factory smashed pipe. (?)

 

Why? Mine won't. When it's offroading time I'll just reroute it.

 

I'm struggling with the exhaust reroute problem. Not sure whether to go back under the T-case or behind it. The exhaust pipe on the drivers side behind the 2nd cat is double walled with something that looks like steel wool between the two walls. And it's welded to the outlet side of the cat and extends from there down and then under the T-case and thence to a factory flange that bolts to a flange on the factory Y pipe. One could cut the double wall pipe a few inches behind the cat, weld on a flange and then just extend single wall pipe via a flange down, then under the T-case, and then to a new flange which would mate with the existing factory flange on the factory Y-pipe. It looks like heat wrapping the new piece of pipe would solve and any heat issues---plus, you are routing next to and under existing heat shields on the t-case.

The other option is to again put a flange behind the cat and then extend a piece of exhaust pipe back and across the truck behind the T-case and then turn and attach to the factory Y-pipe. You would have to cut the part of the Y-pipe off including the factory flange that goes toward the drivers side now and then either weld directly tothe factory Y or weld new flanges on the Y-pipe and the reroute pipe to mate the two. Problem with this routing is heat radiating on the U-joint, T-case plastic actuator housing, brake lines on the drivers side and a cable that comes out of the floor (not sure what it's for).
Some have done the first method. Most have done the second.

Either of these routings would allow installation of a Pelfreybilt T-case skid with a smooth (exhaust reroute) bottom which is what I have and want to install.

Anybody have any thoughts on which would be the best way to reroute?

What does Toyota say about voiding the powertrain warranty if either of these reroutings are done? Or has anyone ever been able to nail them down on this?

For that matter, why would they route the crossover pipe like this on a Off Road vehicle. It makes no sense. Hanging down like it does it's going to be smashed on a rock sooner or later. And then you are looking at a wholesale $778 2nd cat/crossover pipe combo since the factory item is ONE PIECE.

I don't believe either method of rerouting would affect the measured emissions. Does anyone know that for sure? Or is it a state by state, emissions station by emissions station thing?

Right now, I'm leaning toward the under the T-case method.

 

If you are installing the Pelfreybilt skid with reroute mock up the skid first. The passenger side pipe needs to be shifted to clear. It doesn't work in stock form. I did mine and ended up trimming the skid to clear the exhaust