Brett's average build thread

Gotta love using a high lift as a come along haha. It is possible to move a vehicle but not fun.

I never understood why a tree strap is so short. I've never seen any reason not to just use a normal strap.

 

Thanks a bunch, Brett!

It'll be awhile before I have a winch, so I want to make sure that I have a good interim recovery kit before spring comes. This helps a lot with that! Thanks again!

 

Hey @Star-Lord, nice build! Just ran into you in a thread I posted about the 285/75/17's. Skimmed through a decent portion of your build and I must say, I like what I see.

This thread looks like a Colorado Tacoma fan club, but I hope you don't mind an Oregonian being subbed for good info and cheap entertainment.

 

I'm from Georgia and he doesn't mind. Well I guess it is Colorado since I was born there... carry on

 

Brett...Im gonna follow your write up for the LSPV delete this weekend along with doing my Tundra brake upgrade. Quick question, when you went back and removed the long return line that still had some fluid left, is that the line that exits the back of the T fitting on the frame next to the drivers side soft brake line? Also did you remove the rest of the LSPV stuff off your axle in the rear? And thank you so much for this write up!!!!

 

Yes, that line exits the back of the T fitting. It's clipped along the frame and can be persuaded out of there with some effort, watch the dirt in your eyes.

And yes, I removed everything associated to that LSPV off the rear frame and axle.

 

I need to pick up one of those valves as my current one is hanging by the lines and I plated over the mount.

Without going back and reading your whole writeup, is there any reason you didn't put the manual valve in the back of the truck? Seems like there would be much less line bending and stuff if you just mount it where the old one was.

 

To keep it clean and easily accessible. You can certainly hang it off the back if you want.

 

Have you ever adjusted it after your initial setting?

 

Yes. Several times after the initial install, then just a few times after that.
The last time was about mid winter when I realized I had just a bit too much going to the rear, they would lock up just slightly before the front. On dirt it was the opposite. so I did actually dial it down about one turn.

 

Thanks bro!!! Truly appreciate you doing this write up, takes all the thinking out of the process

 

Brett which locker you have again? Do you have the Detroit truetrac?

 

Nope, just the original Detroit locker in the rear.
http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Vehicle/Differentials/detroit-locker/index.htm
If there was an option for the Truetrac to go in the front, I would have it in there as it's better suited to front diff operation. It would be good in the rear axle as well too.

 

Ok. Yeah I just watched a vid on different lockers I posted to my build page. I'm liking the truetrac idea. Just checking to see if that was what you had and how you like it. But since you have the regular Detroit nevermind. Just curious about the truetrac.

 

Truetrac will have better road manners. The full Detroit locker that i have has some quirks in tight, paved, corners, and can be a little harsh to drive with an automatic transmission...so something to think about.

I think you might be happier with a selectable locker, either air or electric.

 

I hear ya. But to be honest. The kind of off road I do. I can manage pretty well with something like a truetrac. I think a selective locker for my truck is unnecessary. Having 11-12 travel in the front and 20+ in the rear I'll be able to keep good contact. Plus comparing cost. I'll keep reading.....

 

I think you have a good idea what you are looking for. The Truetrac would certainly be a good choice for a truck with an automatic transmission.
The key to using a fully automatic locker is being able to remove engine torque as needed, via the use of the clutch, in order to have it behave around town. An automatic transmission has torque applied full time, so some rear end jumping and skipping can be expected. There is absolutely no skill or knowledge required in order to have the thing lock up during wheeling, that's it's nature, it wants to be locked. Totally point and shoot.

TrueTrac should be fine with what you currently have for road manners.

I'm not sure how a full time locker reacts to jumping and landing though. Spider gears in an open/selectable diff do provide some much needed "cushioning" when there is shock loading present. I wouldn't be worried about the locker breaking, but axle shafts and driveshafts will be getting a harder hit.

 

Yeah jumping with and selective locker engaged sounds like a time bomb. I always try and keep my foot off the throttle in the air until after contact and cost out, not throttle out. Watching vids on the true trac looks pretty cool for my style of driving. I'll be able to add brake assistance when need be. Plus you can't beat a 500 price over 1000+ for selective. I do agree that selective is king of the hill of lockers but I can't justify that for my truck.

 

Factory/Dealer mod.
This applies to 95.5-97 trucks with factory AC.

The back story...
My AC crapped out last fall, just as the snow flew. No biggie, I'll fix it in the spring.
Well, Spring came early. Actually, there is a lot more to the story, but telling it makes me homicidal. So lets just go with why YOU might want to change it.

There is an actual TSB about this from years ago. If your truck has less than 3 years or 36,000 miles, you get it for free.....

In the front of the truck, near the accumulator, are two lines. line #1 and line#2.
Line #1 is prone to cracking due to stress flexing.
There is a revised kit that replaces a few brackets, and changes the shape of Line #1 so it can vibrate away and be happy about it.

The kit. From Toyota.

The TSB

The 6 replacement parts. Two of them, the clear/white plastic pieces, are optional.

The short tube that is disconnected at the bottom is being replaced. Mine has a crack in it at the lower fitting.

The crack.


The bracket with the #534 stamped on it gets replaced, there is another on the passenger side as well.


The old bracket and the new bracket.
The rubber vibration grommet is reused. It just slides off and back on to the new bracket.

New bracket in place. Tighten the bolts in this order to avoid cracking the condenser, cause that would really suck.
Number 1 bolt. It's hole is non adjustable, start here.

Number 2 bolt. This hole IS adjustable, make it straight, or as straight as you can. this one sat just slightly off kilter. This bolt is actually the upper radiator mounting bolt, now they share the mount.

Number 3 bolt. Tighten this last, just make it snug, as it is going through the plastic portion of the condenser.


One for each side.


All they do is reinforce the condenser mounting points. It's much more secure now.
New pipe #1 on the left, old pipe #1 on the right.

New clip for pipe #1. It simply presses in between the fins and keeps pipe#1 from rubbing.

It's general location.



A couple of 12oz cans of R134A brought it to the minimum charge. I'll do one more to top it off. It's pretty damn cold though, makes me happy.


The two clear/white plastic pieces that I mentioned were optional, are cheap replacement caps for the High and Low pressure ports. Which was fortuitous, as I lost the low side cap, while I was doing the job. I think the dog may have ate it while I was doing the replacement.


The parts that were replaced when it was all said and done.

 

In the process of installing the proportioning valve in the rear, had to get 2 additional unions to make it work, and probably not any easier at this point.

Also, what are you thoughts on your muffler after having it for a while now? The seam on mine if falling apart so I figure I might as well replace it while I have the bed off. Just don't want it too loud.