What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

You may not want MT90 in the rear diff, should really have the 75-90 and doesn't have to be anything special but I'm pretty sure it requires gl5 hypoid gear oil which mt90 is not.

 

Thanks for the concern. I pulled vin at work and for 2004 90wt is what was called for and redline met the specs. Earlier models did call for 75-90, not sure why spec changed?Also partnered with some Toyota techs that validated it as well. I am more curious about the green stuff in the transfer case and am waiting until Monday to question techs about it.

 

All our diffs are the same, I'd urge you to reevaluate that decision. There's a reason the GL5 used in the diff is so viscous and has decent tackyness. Transmission is considered lighterduty use than the conditions a differential sees. But don't take my word for it, check out what others have to say, including Red line themselves.

https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7

Right on that page it says it is not a suitable replacement for GL5 and it is not for use in hypoid gearsets (what our differentials are)

 

You made the right choice... I've had mine in the cab for awhile but have suspension coming this week so I'm gonna wait. Did you use locktite?

 

wonder price on all those vs OEM , i guess some day at 100K i will have to do all that

 

up this morning pulling people out of the snow.

there are parked vehicles under that snow

 

Roof is relentless and pods are cbi

 

I agree. I am going to look at it more as I saw redlines page last night after you got me thinking. I tow a lot so need good fluid, especially in rear diff.

 

What size and brand light bar in lower valance and how is it mounted? Looks great!

 

I'm going on about 4 months of winter.... Definitely ready for it to go away.

 

LED Light Bar, Northpole Light 31" 180W

LED Light Bar, Northpole Light 32" 180W Spot-Flood Combo LED Light Bar, Waterproof Off-Road Light Bar, Driving Fog Light with Mounting Bracket for Off-Road, Truck, Car, ATV, SUV

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQXBSKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2WyXyb4M2RF6A

For $36 can't go wrong...been on a few weeks now and works great. I just used 2 -3x1 inch peice's of aluminum on both ends of the frame. The light bar is just about the exact width of the frame. It fit right in front of the radiator mounts. Thanks!!

 

Ain't that the truth. Just got an IS300 and there's a bad oil leak that's coming from the VVT-I timing gear. Like you said might as well replace whenever needs to be replaced while the engine is torn apart. And you change yours at 90K? I went past 116K when we thought a mechanic changed it out at 100K the only thing he did was replace the water pump with a cheap piece of shit.

I need to replace my LBJ as well. Got the masterpro over 10K miles ago and starting to get worried when they'll go out.

Damn that sucks, I wouldn't mind if you passed it over Arkansas for a month.

 

Maybe give Lucas Oil

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90 a shot, it's quality stuff and usually pretty easy to find. Some people recommend running a thicker fluid for towing. I think ECGS recommends 80W-140 when they send out their diffs.

 

Got my CS 144 in today and big 3 wrapped up. Only wire that wasn't upgrade was battery to fuse panel. The lugs I had were too big for the bottom wire in bolt. I figure this is okay to leave as is since it's not drawing anymore than it originally did. Is this a correct assumption @Blackdawg and @Digiratus

 

So to install the alternator you just used the adapter connector and the rest is pnp?

 

Almost. You need to make a spacer for the top bolt and of course upgrade your main harness to handle the amperage.

 

Given my Tacoma is going to be barely driven these days, how often should I take it out to keep the fluids running through their systems?

Also what's the best type of driving to accomplish this? I assume as much nonstop 50+ mph drives.

 

Mine is not hot at all. I could easily touch it. The temp gun pegged it at ~80*F. A lot cooler than I thought it would be.

Yes, you will be fine. Mine still has that stock wire too.

IIRC, you have a large gauge wire running from the alt direct to the batt, right? That is the way we did ours.

 

Yup 2 gauge straight to the alt, engine block and starter.

 

That sounds pretty good. 2-gauge may be a little more than you really need since its such a short run for 150 amps max, but it certainly hurts nothing..