What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Just ordered a ton of decals from @rrentrop.

 

https://wheelskins.com/#/home

$69.95 shipped. More than most covers but genuine and classy in my opinion.

 

Got my ditch lights all mounted and wired. Having a potential issue with the switch though. The switch apparently operates off of two different lights, one that goes to the wired relay (that turns on the top emblem but also provides your ditch light power, wired directly to the battery), and the other operates off an a add-a-circuit that I added to my tail lights. That way every time I turn on my headlights/tail lights, the text will illuminate like stock. The problem I'm having is that the emblem light (circled) is ALWAYS on regardless if the truck is on or not. I'm worried that this might cause battery drain.
Is this pretty typical of switches like this, or do I need to wire the relay to another add-a-circuit (in bay fuse box) to make sure that the light only comes on when the truck is on? The backlight is on in the picture below, ditch lights are off, and truck is off.

 

Where'd you get that switch from?

 

I got it from Cali Raised

 

I wired my switch like that to the LAMP fuse and then to the CARGO fuse. The CARGO fuse I wired for the upper part of the switch that has power all the time. The lower portion I wired to the LAMP fuse with a add-a-fuse so that it comes on when I turn my parking lights on. Maybe this will help. Instead of using two add-a-fuses like I did, you can take the wire and connect directly to the battery for the upper portion of the switch instead of CARGO if you'd like. I just don't know that way of doing it. This is what I did when I installed my BED Lights.

 

It sounds like we did something similar. So is the top portion of the switch lit up all of the time? Even when the truck is off?

 

I would never wire anything inside the cab directly to the battery. Use a relay.

 

No. It is not unless I have the button pushed in for them to be on. If I have them off, it is not on

 

Never have done this myself. Was just using his wording for wanting to go directly to the Battery or relay. Was just simply adding which fuses I tapped into inorder to solve his switch issues.

 

Got it. I might give the cargo fuse a try then. I'm surprised it was designed this way. I would have figured one light for both the upper and lower portion.
Thanks for the info!

 

DB Customz quality stuff
That looks great

 

Yeah. Nope. It's two different ones so that the switch is illuminated when it's off and it's dark. If you have any other questions let me know. I can send some pics if needed.

 

I think that was my bad on the wording. I meant that the relay was plugged to the battery, not that the wire from the switch was

 

No worries. Wasn't a big deal. The way I did it, I will be able to add all my switches to the same fuses. Every fourth switch I add, I will go up on my fuse number. However, that way they are all wired the same way. I will have a total of 6-8 switches when I am done with all my lighting. For some I may also use a relay. We will see when I get to that point. That's one of my last mods is lighting.

 

Unfortunately not. Just a verbal promise than me and my buddy were witness to. And a verbal acknowledgment of fault so-to-speak today at the dealership.

 

If it has a tow package then it is listed on the window sticker. I don't care what anyone tells me. If it's on the window sticker then it's included. If it's not on the window sticker then it was not built into the truck. If it does not have a factory hitch then it does not have oil and transmission coolers.

 

If you haven't figured this out yet already, I had the same issue, I had to switch two of the wires and then it functioned properly.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtTfArVtpEY&t=193s