Built valvebody for supercharger

Welcome to TW!!!
You need the Level 10 Valve Body Upgrade

http://members.cox.net/mgriese5/Level10.html

I used the Haynes Repair Manual (Tacoma 1995-2000) as a guide. Since my 2001 Tacoma uses a 30-40LE transmission, some differences were noted. Also, the Manual has incorrect torque values.

For these reasons, I decided to document the upgrade for a 2001 Tacoma in a step by step fashion. Note that these are my experiences, if you use them on your vehicle, you do so at your own risk!

1 (pic # 1)
Raise the vehicle as necessary to access the transmission pan. Arm’s length to the pan bolts worked well for me. Remember it will be parked here for about four days - so plan ahead.

2 (pic # 2 & 3)
Locate the Throttle Valve(TV) cable. The one to disconnect is the upper one in the picture. It’s connected to the valve body, and disconnecting it might give you a little more slack when working on the valve body.

3 (pic # 4)
Remove the transmission dip stick. Remove the nut & lockwasher holding the dipstick tube, and remove the tube. While this is optional, it’ll help at the end when the transmission pan is put back on (it’ll be covered with the Permatex stuff that cures in five minutes and you don’t need to fumble with fitting the two halves together). Drain all fluid from transmission pan.

4 (pic 5, 6, 7)
Note the tight clearance at the back of the pan & at the anti-sway bar in front. Remove the bar’s front hold down bolt on each side of the vehicle, then loosen the rear hold down bolt on each side. Rotate clamp out of the way, allowing the bar to drop down.

5 (pic 8, 8a, 8b)
Remove 19 pan bolts. Use a rubber hammer to break the gasket’s seal. I had no luck with this, so I used a thin scrapper on each of the rear corners. Do Not bend the pan’s sealing surface. Much oil is still in the pan when you drop it. Remove the Strainer, and keep the bolts with it.

6 (pic # 9 thru 13, 13a, 13b, 14)
Gently remove three electrical connections from the solenoids. The front solenoid uses a half inch long retaining bolt. Remove two “B” bolts, one holds the solenoid bracket, the other holds the wire retaining clip. Remove one “A” bolt and one tiny bolt that holds the other solenoid. Gently wiggle the solenoids out of the valve body. Protect the o-ring end of the solenoids while they are out of the valve body.

(4)“A” bolts - 0.91”long (10)“B” bolts - 1.11”long (6)”C” bolts - 1.42”long

Make SURE you know which holes these sizes came from! Make a map of their locations!


On the left side center you’ll see where the cable you disconnected in Step 2 connects to the valve body. Once you rotate the lever, there should be enough slack to disconnect the cable end.
Now it’s time to drop the valve body. At the front of the valve body, in each corner, are springs that will fall out. The pics will show their locations, so don’t worry, just be sure to collect and bag them for use when re-installing. Remove the remaining valve body bolts while supporting the weight of the valve body with your other hand. Protect all areas of the valve body when setting it on the floor. You kept the solenoids and springs, the rest is sent to Level 10. The Pawl or shifter detent arm can be loosened, moved, and gently re-tightened to kept the manual shift shaft from falling out. (The shaft is ground and has two flanges on the end of it). Wrap valve body in bubblepack, several inches thick. Pack tightly in heavy wall box. The air freight company will NOT be gentle to your package. I bought $1000 worth of insurance.

8 (pic # 33 thru 42)
Clean parts and gasket surfaces while waiting on Level 10. When finished cleaning the gasket material from the transmission, scan the entire open area and remove any flakes of gasket material from inside the transmission. Everything must be kept clean. Re-install the pan when done to keep out dirt.
I choose to install a transmission temperature sensor since the pan was already out. The location I choose next to the dip stick didn’t interfere with anything, but you may decide on a different location. Just remember to allow for tightening of the pan bolts. I bought an AutoMeter gage that suggested brazing the brass bushing into the pan. This seamed like too much of a hassle, so I found a B&M adapter which bolts on (# 80250—about $8 at Checker) (or Hayden sells the same thing—but might be harder to find). You still have to drill a hole, but the last one I installed is still leak free after six years.

9 (pic # 43 thru 46)
When you receive the valve body from Level 10, you should get three springs which are tagged B2, C2, and CO. The C2 spring is actually just the outer spring. The inner is re-used. These springs will provide the hardest shifts. For me the 1-2 shift was very hard. Pic 46 is marked showing where the springs go. Expect another gush of fluid when you wiggle these pistons out of their bores. Once the new springs are installed, the C2 assembly will be too long to fit in it’s bore, so have a baggy ready to keep it clean until your ready to install the valve body.

10 (pic # 47 thru 51)
The trick to re-installing the valve body by yourself is to use the “C” bolts at the outer edges first. Test that the valve body will fit up flush to the transmission. Then unbolt the back end, or the entire valve body and gently slip the C2 assembly into it’s bore. Bolt the back end to hold C2 in it’s bore. At the front install the original Ball Check with Spring and Spring In Spring where shown in Pic 47. Using the six “C” bolts, slowly bring the valve body close to flush. Make sure C2 goes straight into its bore. Note that the Engagement Pin must be between the two flanges on the ground shaft. Then install the “A” and “B” bolts around the B2, C2, and BO area. Find “A” or “B” bolts around the outer edges and install. Remove any remaining “C” bolts and install than in the correct locations. Finish installing all bolts until valve body is flush. Again, make sure C2 goes straight into its bore. Re-connect the cable. Re-install the Strainer, note that it has two different length black bolts. On the back side of the Strainer are two different length standoffs, match the bolts to the standoffs. The last pic, 51, shows the gloves I used so I could take some great pics with a borrowed camera!

11
Use Permatex “The Right Stuff” to make the pan gasket. The 4oz. Tube should be enough, I had to get the 7oz. Tube. (Make sure you re-installed the magnets in the pan after cleaning.) Install pan. Install dip stick tube. Install cable and adjust so .040” of the crimp is sticking out of the rubber boot (less than the width of a toothpick).
My truck took seven quarts of fluid to refill. I added five quarts before restarting & shifting through the gears. You might want to let the engine warm-up a little so the idle comes down before shifting out of park (because the vehicle is gonna jump now!)




Notes:
(for # 8) If you use the B&M adapter, it needs to ground on the pan, so sand the paint to bare metal first.



(for # 9) After 1 week I removed the Level 10 Springs & put the factory ones in for a softer shift—this is what I would recommend. Factory rear leaf springs are rated at (about) 1200 lbs. , where my TRD leaf springs are rated at 750 lbs. The 1-2 upshift felt like it was causing a lot of axle wrap! The shifts were just too harsh for this old man’s daily driver. I still have had an occasional tire chip on upshifts.

I love this mod, but I’d love it more if it wasn’t so expensive!

 

Last I checked, about $700.00.

 

I copied and pasted from a website because I wasnt sure what all you might need to know.