lubrication points 2016 Tacoma TRD sport 4x4 ??

Does anyone know of any necessary lubrication points necessary in 2016 Tacoma TRD sport not listed in owners manual

 

Driveshaft

 

Thanks buddy! I plan to have Toyota service change my manual tranny fluid because of the manual shifter getting stuck in gear issue that's common I've heard. I also plan to have the differential and transfer case fluids changed at 30,000 miles. The service foreman told me there aren't any such manufacturers recommendations for those but suggested I change those fluids at 90,000. Heard nothing except from you about possible driveshaft lubricaton. I just got home from my 10,000 mile service and it's first required oil and filter change though I've changed it three times already before, at 2,500-3,000, 5,000 and now again at 10,000 all using Toyota 5w-20 synthetic oil with Toyota filters. The 3,000 mile change was a dealer error but at no charge and they did the 5,000 mile oil and filter change for free also. I don't believe even today's synthetic oil and filters really function well for 10,000 miles. This Tacoma cost more than my first house and at my age I take care of it as I don't know if I'll ever have the cash again to purchase a new vehicle. Appreciate the reply. Dannyblues

 

I'm going to open a can of worms here, but you really should be informed of this because it hurts to see you throw your money away! 10,000 miles is a mere drop in the bucket of the life that modern synthetic oil can & will handle. Absolutely no need to change syn oil that often - unless - unless you have a mechanical defect that will pollute the oil (such as a coolant leak, hole in air filter, etc.). Or because your warranty requires it. But neither of those is the fault of the oil.
The proof and paperwork is readily available, but I also am speaking from experience. I've used synthetic lubrication products exclusively since 1979 (nothing else allowed in my vehicles, lawnmowers, bikes, etc.). I've had 3 vehicles each reach 260k, 280k, & now 268k on current '93 Civic without any mechanical fault related to lubrication - save a wheel bearing on the Mazda RX-3SP (260k above) and currently a noisy bearing in the transmission of the Civic (both are at the high-miles end.) I've experienced a lot of other vehicles too, but sold them before such high miles were acquired and still, none of them had any issues with my 25,000 mile oil change intervals (w/ filter replaced at 12,500). In fact the Civic is enjoying a 36,000 mile oil change schedule.
Down & dirty explanation of petroleum oil vs. synthetic oil - Petro from the ground makes things slick (it will lube, but then so will water) but there are so many other requirements of engine oil that the mfg has to add supplements to meet them. A quart bottle of petro oil is about half oil -and- half additives (like water dispersant, anti-foam, acid neutralizer, detergent, corrosion protection, viscosity improvers, etc. ~working from memory here so cut me some slack for not naming them all~. These additives do get used up and they boil off (at fairly low temps) and THAT is why petro oil must be changed so frequently. The oil is still slippery and will lube moving parts, but the other properties are gone. (Low temp boil-off is why U.S. made petro oil will not qualify for use in Europe! So sad.) - Synthetic oil is made at the molecular level and up to accomplish all of those "other requirements" and thus many additives aren't necessary. Manufacturers still do supplement some additives into the syn oil - to enhance it; but they usually use better base stock that lasts longer & is resistant to heat (no boil off). When I change my filter at 12.5k that filter holds close to a quart, so I have to add a qt back w/ the new filter. That new quart replenishes my additive package and allows me another 12.5 miles before changing the oil.
All of this is affected by proper filtration (both oil and air), by turbo-charged or normally aspirated, by severe duty or fleet use, etc. But my normal work commute, occasional cross-country, and four season use all worked for my 25k - 36k oil change interval without problems. The oil can and will perform just fine! I've had many oil analysis done through the years and ALL have come back "oil is good for continued service". I never once received a recommendation to change the oil. And this was on 14k, 18k, 24k in-use oil.
If Toyota wants you to change it at 5k or 10k, then do it so not to have any hassle with warranty concerns. (Yes, they would have to prove that the oil caused the problem, regardless of how many miles are on that oil; but what a pain the court time is.)
All of this is simply to say that you are wasting money if you change pure synthetic oil at 2500-3000 mile intervals!
It is a waste of money to change at 10k, but if Toy ain't happy, we ain't happy, so waste be damn.

 

AND... I don't think the 5w-20 is synthetic....should be 0W-20..!! 5-20 would be recycled dynasours.(sp)?

 

There is a TSB on the transmission for sticking in gear, you should not have to change the fluid unless you want to.

 

Peace of mind... I'm with the OP on maintenance. To answer the original question....

On the early 16s there are 5 zirks.... the factory didn't know how to install them properly, I. E. load them with grease and purge the installation lube. So we got our trucks with NO lube from the factory.

The service department won't lube them until the 10K service interval.. do the math, 10K without lube probably not going to last long... good they are not expensive parts.

So Toyota started to change all the drive shafts to no service types ... that require a complete replacement of drive shafts when, yes when they go bad. Likely shortly AFTER the drive train warranty runs out. Yes I've had to replace these sort of parts in other vehicles... I'd much rather have serviceable parts than have to replace drive shafts.

The 16's can have a combination # of zirks from 5 like me to 3 or even 0 for late model year trucks.

Check the torque on the u-joint bolts and lube them. All of mine took +10 pumps to fill them and purge the assembly grease (not the same as a proper lube).

 

Thanks guys I had no idea about the driveshaft requiring lubrication. I just had my 10,000 mile service but didnt see lube driveshaft on the list of services performed. I'm meeting the district field service rep for the second time on Wednesday march 15 to try and resolve my manual shift getting stuck in gear problems. I informed the dealer foreman of the technical service bulletin I read of on these posts ( TSB-0088-16 ) but he said no such bulletin exists on his computer from toyota bulletin reports nor does Toyota have any reports posted about any 2016 tacomas with manual transmissions having difficulties like getting stuck in gear. The dealer foreman just smiled at me and told me not to believe anything I read on this site! We shall see this Wednesday. Dannyblurs

 

I would go to a different Dealer if they are unable to access simple TSBs.

 

Today March 15, 2017... God is it that late in the game already. 1993 seems like four years ago. I was born in 1949 and that sounds like 200 years ago. So today I met with the corporate field service rep, dealer service manager, foreman and a big wig from Toyota. Turns out the TSB-0088-16 I told them about and they couldn't locate was exactly the fix necessary to resolve my manual transmission getting stuck in a particular gear, usually 5th or 6th after a 60 mile highway drive when left in a particular gear for at least fifteen minutes or more and occurs more often in warm weather. They did the service with the replacement parts recommended and I asked they drain and check the manual tranny fluid for any unusual metal filings or chips etc. which they said they did then refill the tranny with fresh fluid. Strange but I didn't see any fluid description like amount and gear oil weight on the parts used line even though the district rep said he'd pay for the fluid change free of charge. I hope they didn't put the old strained fluid back in!! I'll call them back tomorrow to be sure it was changed correctly. The case manager from Toyota headquarters customer service is due to call me back tomorrow to see how it all went. First time this dealership shop ever did this job. Not many manuals in Connecticut I guess. As I left the shop the shifts felt smoother than before especially into and out of 5 th. I'm hoping that TSB did it and it was serviced properly. I have a 200 mile trip to New Jersey tomorrow so it should provide me with the opportunity to see if the condition is corrected. Getting absolutely jammed in gear has put me in some unsafe predicaments. I'd like to thank all you that posted replies and information regarding how to resolve this issue. It's a sad state of affairs when me the customer has to research and locate the necessary information on how to correct a malfunction on a Toyota product then be told I'm wrong and not to believe everything I read on the internet then find I wad right and today the dealer shop people were very embarrassed in front of the corporate big wigs who had to come in and put some pressure on them to get their act together. Thanks to all for your help. Dannyblues

 

I didn't see listed on my recent 10,000 mile service anything about lubricating the driveshaft and I'm assuming it's the u joints that are being referred to. Posted was originally 2016 tacomas came with an inferior production lube that requires to be properly replaced and relubed with a proper grease. Also posted was early models had 5 zerk fittings then 3 on the driveshaft but purging was a problem so toyota has now gone to no zerk fittings and a sealed driveshaft lubed for life I'm assuming from the factory. I'm not an auto mechanic so I'm a bit confused about what is actually required on my particular 2016 Tacoma TRD sport 4x4 that I purchased new in early July 2016. I don't trust the dealership shop to know or do what is actually required or even know what's typically inspected during a service under 25,000 miles with Toyota care warranty. Basically they just maybe do as they say a full maintenance check, rotate the tires and change the oil and filter at the recommended 10,000 mile intervals, and every 5,000 just rotate the tires. Always check your wheel hubs on the 17 inch wheels as they have a tendency to get loose and fly off as mine did if not properly reinstalled after a tire rotation. Even a slight amount of play will lead to that. Any advice or easy to understand clarification about the driveshaft lube requirements would be helpful. Forgive me for long texts without paragraphs as I am using an iPhone and don't know how to create paragraphs on it as I've been criticized. My apology. And many thanks to all you manual Tacoma guys who have helped me in the recent past resolve a stuck in gear problem I just had resolved today using the long posted TSB reference. Dannyblues.

 

Paragraphs exist for a reason.

Your wall of text posts make my eyes bleed.

 

If your 2016 was purchased in early July '16, you could have 5 zerks or only 2...... 2 on the front shaft, 3 on the rear. Only way to know and to ensure they get greases is do it yourself. They come from the factory with only "assembly" grease in them... the manufacturer says to the Automobile manufacturers that they are supposed to grease them, (after installed in the driveshaft,) until new grease is purged through each of the 4 caps on a U joint.

You will have to do this yourself or pay the dealer an extremely high amount of $ to do it for you....and you still don't know if it is done correctly, or at all...!! Dealer NEVER checks or greases them.

If you are unable to get under there....get a friend/neighbour... Get the correct grease also... "NLGI-No.2", I think it's called.

Good luck

 

Thanks for your honesty. My posts are very long. I'm using an iPhone 6 and don't know how to make paragraphs on it. My apologies. Will try to keep posts shorter. Dannyblues

 

My 2016 Tacoma maintenance manual requires lubrication of propeller shaft on 4 WD models at 15,000 miles. I'm assuming that is probably lubricating the 5 zerk fittings, 3 in front, two in rear, located at the universal joints? I've seen posted that the 2016 Tacoma was originally sent out with only an assembly lube rather than a quality NGLI-1 grease then there were different versions according to the post that featured 5 or then 3 zerk ( grease ) fittings and finally some driveshafts that intentionally had none as they were "permanently " lubed upon vehicle assembly. Dannyblues

 

Let me clear that one up for you....

Lube the driveshaft sooner. I did at 5k miles and noticed an immediate difference. I'll be doing it again soon (rolled over 10k miles not long ago). My zerks only had assembly lube and some purged nothing but air. Greasing with a proper grease means the truck will generally roll smoother and I've noticed less clunks or bumps when rolling to a stop.

Regarding the availability of zerk fittings, if you check the door card when you open your driver door, you should see a sticker with your VIN and the build date (MM/YY format I believe). Trucks built in early 06/16 or before will have all 5 zerk fittings (2 on front shaft, 3 on rear). Trucks built after that date will tend to only have the front zerks. The rear joints have been sealed (nearly all of them coming off the line by July 2016) on newer trucks.

OA

 

It actually calls for NLGI 2 , not 1.

 

Ok. I'm going back to the dealership again. This past week they finally reviewed the TSB-0088-16 and resolved my stuck shifter issues after months and many trips even after I told them about the TSB. Thanks for the lube correction. I have no idea what the dealer uses and it's too cold to get under the truck here in Connecticut now. I'll recommend it. I got a nasty flat tire yesterday; big metal spike. I'm replacing the tire. It has 11,000 miles only and still looks new. I'm conservative driving. Dannyblues

 

Good deal man, not trying to be a smart ass, just want to make sure you are using the rght grade my man. I used Mobil 1 ( 222 blue ) , because they had a special at work....free.

 

I have never seen any conventional 0w20?