Prepping for turbo

That's where im going to order most of my parts from.

Also, since im speaking with the man himself....whats the deal with cams saying they're for 10-20psi. Would you recommend a stage 2 or whatever cam instead of the stock cam? Id also like to get my truck to lope, heard a 22re and it was badass sounding.

 

The lope may or may not happen, based off of the design. Generally speaking, turbo cam profiles have little to no overlap. That will take away the lope synonymous with a lot of muscle engines.

There are specifics which can change that, but it becomes extremely math intensive once you go that route.

My suggestion is to use a set which they have for a high boost turbo application. Since they have built a plenty 1k hp RZ engines.

Mine has a slight lope to it, but only a byproduct of the lift and duration. Not overlap, as mine were specifically designed for my turbo setup.

LCE has a very nice turbo manifold. Stout configuation. Are you planning on that, or another turbular style?

 

I was going with the lce log style manifold with the lce wastgate, believe its a 38mm. I noticed the stage 2 cam on lce is alright for mid range to high range power and goes to 8000rpm I believe and needs under shim style lifter upgrade instead of the over style which seems like it would help with redlining.

Just, I still dd this truck and will most likely be towing a bit more since I should have more power. I don't want to lose all of the low end grunt it needs for pulling 33s and a trailer every so often

 

Properly sized turbo, and you won't lose any low end.

 

With a cam I wont lose any low end?

My plan, now that ive seen it, was copying @boostedka build and doing everything hes done up until I bump up the psi

 

I wouldn't mess with any of the head stuff. I don't think there's a ton to be gained for the cost and all for a loss down low. Like Tor said just keep your turbo on the small end of the compressor map and you'll be spooling at 1500 rpm. You're kind of all over the place with your goals. You want a race truck that can tow, presumably an even faster race truck? I think a good starting place would just be to get the turbo on and start playing with boost. After reading through the article Boostedka posted I'm partially retracting my remark about upgrading rods. It might not even be necessary.

You definitely need to make some hard decisions. If you want a truck than can rip 1/4 miles and tow a boat I'm sorry to say you're probably going to need some cubes. The more power you're making over stock with a turbo the less power you're going to have on the low end. I.e. if you want to triple your motors output with boost you're going to need a giant ass turbo relative to that engine which is going to be very hard to spin. Cams and springs are to this same effect. Essentially they extend the upper limit of your engines rpm threshold, increasing hp but not torque. Your truck won't be happy DDing 33's with this set up IMO.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I've never driven a 3rz personally but I do know they are pretty stroked out so I might be talking out of my ass.

 

I'm not really wanting a race truck just wanting more power for bigger tires and towing a fourwheeler/lawnmower some

 

I was looking around on Google and I found an eBay account that makes manifolds. It is pretty much a log style but made of tubing. You have the option of other wastegate sizes and flanges....would a log tubular style be better than a cast log style? @boostedka @MadTaco461 @yota243 @Torspd



Also, precision 5431 or a borgwarner with similar better specs...I think it's a s200 or something?

 

Dang i got tagged in a good group haha.
Id say pros of the tubing are gonna be a little better flow, lighter, easier to heat wrap, and they look better and also even if not wrapped are going to hold less heat in the engine bay than the cast
The pros of the cast are well maybe cost and the list is gettin short after that.
I dunno how much performance difference there will be in low boost but the morebu plan to crank out the more apparent it will be...


Ill let the vets weigh in now

 

Thought I'd add @MrCrowntown.


See my post above please sir

 

I feel like your almost a pro if you've done your own setup. Can't wait for mine

 

If you are shooting for low to mid boost, a cast manifold will do just fine. The Tube style header you posted above, works the exact same as a cast log manifold. If you want to go from mid to high boost and reduce lag, you'll want a longer tube header, that directs the flow straight into the collector. Like this:



Fun fact, this is one of LCEs headers for the 3rz. Both will work, this one will probably provide more overall control of your boost.

 

I've saw that one and contemplated it, but I'm trying to keep it on the cheaper side....

I was originally going with lce log mani, then boostedka led me to Treadstone but I noticed how close the turbo was to the body. This guy twists the flange as far up as possible and keeps +-2" for room from the engine itself

 

The log will definitely still work! You'll get all the boosty goodness you desire from it, I promise haha

 

Haha, thank you sir

 

Borg Warner every day of the week, over Precision. Higher quality turbo manufacturer.

 

Oh im on the bw s200 series btw i have the 56 a because it was less than $600 (the 51mm can be found on Amazon for like $525 ish) and im pretty sure they have the extended tip technology stuff where they, u no, extend the tip on the fins for more better boosty stuff

 

Okie dokie, I'll start searching up. Gotta keep the 3"inlet with 4 bolt discharge though...and probably be best to keep the .63ar and around a 54mm correct?

I do like better boosty stuff...mainly the sound though

 

Who makes that manifold? It looks similar to a KO Racing mani. Have you checked out their site? Kris sells just the manifold by itself for around $400 I believe

 

That's a good price. Is that for a T3 or T4 exhaust flange?