Brice's NA V6 Build

It's not the head gasket, and I started it up for a second time after it had all the problems and there was no more smoke so I dunno.

Blue, White All the same colors when your miles from home with a dead truck. It did look like oil smoke from when I had a larger restrictor on the turbo way back and it blew past the seals.

 

Might want to check your trubos seals then.

 

I'll have more time to inspect and fix the truck tomorrow.

Until then, I recently got a 3d printer.







I like this font so I figured...why not? (alignment supports added)


In Flashprint (3d-printer-slicer program)


Printing V1 no alignment supports


V1 no alignment supports


V2 With alignment supports


Hexagonal infill @50%


These are printed in carbon fiber PLA . I'll mock these up on the truck tomorrow and paint them as long as the humidity lets up...
I was going for a 60's turbo charged style font and as far as im concerned I got it. And yes, I know the T looks like a J

I've been thinking about making a gauge pod out of the far left air vent on the truck as well. Maybe a gauge insert for the clock too...

 

What's a jurbo?

Had there been a big temp rise lately? My ambients just jumped 20 degrees over 2 days and my afrs are a little wonky.

 

Yea, Temps where I'm at have been from the high 40's to low 80's.

Also I'm tryin to figure out a better T lol

 

You can reset you ecm by pulling the efi fuse and it'll reset all your fuel trims. It takes a bit of driving for them to equalize normally so it might help. There is a huge difference in air density at 40 degrees so your definitely getting a lot less oxygen. OR.... you could just turn up the boost

 

If I turned to boost up enough to stabilize a 8:1 afr to something more reasonable I'd make enough power to blow the motor lol

I did pull the EFI fuse an noticed idle was smoother but still crazy rich.

 

I'm at 13 psi now with no signs of detonation . Engine failure occurs at the rod caps first and the strain they see is proportional to engine speed, not load. This is in a smooth tune scenario mind you. Obviously a bad tune has a different agenda. IMO the motor will out run the transmission before it fails.

 

Any updates?

 

If you unplug the MAF sensor, how much does it change the rich condition?

Cannot remember. Did you install a BOV?

What is the maximum g/s that your MAF sensor can read?

 

Yes. I don't recall if I posted the code it ran, but it was P0301. It pertains to cylinder #1, Ignition, fuel pressure, and fuel delivery, more specifically low fuel pressure, a clogged injector, bad ignition coil or low compression (which I don't think our truck can detect). I disassembled the intake to get at the #1 injector. I pulled Injector #1 and thought "huh seems fine..." Then I shook the injector and heard a rattle,and thought "uh oh" It seems out of all the people who bought the ebay injectors, one of mine are bad... It was a little plastic and brass filter thing that fell into the injector at some point and I think messed everything up. I don't know for sure since I haven't put the truck back together, but I should be doing that today.

I didn't unplug the MAF but if the issue persists I will to see what happens.

No BOV

and I'm not sure what it reads for g/s.

 

It's a sign from the Boost Gods. Get better injectors.

Imagine if it froze in a closed position while doing a pull.....

 

Lol I'd imagine I'd be swapping in a new 5vz...
I probably shoulda bought the LCE injectors, and I probably will when I have some money for them

Speaking of having money for stuff, I have a 3d printer, anyone want something printed? lol

 

Trucks still broke.

Fixed the broken injector -No diff

Unplugged MAF -No diff

Unplugged Individual injectors -No diff

Bypassed wiring -No diff

Checked tune -Still the same (stable)

Coil packs -All good

I'm not sure what to do at this point but it still runs at 8:1.
I'm gonna reinstall the stock injectors and uninstall the AEM all together and see what happens, and see if it still runs rich.
I may have bad plug wires? I accidently hit one with the grinder and got into the insulation a bit but I remedied that with some electrical tape and it's been good for 1000+ miles. Sometimes I wish I had a 3rz...


I also got my cam seals in today and plan to change those at some point (soon since I'm leaking oil so bad the truck is near undrivable).

 

@Blackdawg Did you do those knock sensors?

 

Nope. Been pouring money into the other truck to keep it reliable...just blew the rear axle bearings. Was hoping to do that this week. Have to wait now..

 

Man that sucks.
Good luck with those bearings though.

 

Already fixed. Just expensive haha

 

Oh, good!

 

So its still runing rich?