Long Travel BS Thread

thank you! great info. is there a particular primer you would recommend?

 

The 2nd gen CV axle horror stories are blown out of proportion. Either use the pipe drop method or better yet, source 2 extra CVs from a junk yard and rebuild those however you want before you even start installing the kit. If you off-road you're going to need at least 1 spare anyway. I've pressed CV stars apart doing the TC recommended way and pipe dropped the last one I pulled apart. The first 2 I pressed sheared the circlip perfectly the last sheared the splines off the shaft. I think I recall reading a report where someone sheared the splines off the star and ruined it but I can't recall where the report was.

Also the instructions for rebuilding the CVs should be on TCs website, if not, email them and ask, I received instructions with my order. Also, there are instructions in the FSM for rebuilding CVs. I used both when rebuilding mine.

 

Cancel your order for front LT and do the rear first. Your truck will thank you.

 

I don't think this is correct but it seems like you know what your talking about. It says right on steel-it's can that primer is not necessary. And yes you can weld right through it and the weld comes out just as clean as if it was bare metal. Normal spray paint does not obviously

 

i know ppl have asked but whats a good locker for the t100 axle? dont say ARB cause that snot gonna happen

 

It's the same diff as a Tacoma 8.4 so anything that fits that.

 

ARB. On demand locker is arguably the best unless you're racing I suppose.

 

Or harrop

 

do what you want with your truck, do some research but in the end it was you want to use and do to it, i have Lt front and mid travel rear and couldnt be happier with how it does.... now im linking it.... save your money and get what you want the first time or second time. Thats what im doing now.

 

weld the bitch

 

Paint is what I do for work. Here's a link to just a normal product description, feel free to do some reading and you will find what I said to be true. Can't always believe the Instagram hype brah. There's even an SDS if you wanna read how it says to avoid contact with sparks, heat, and flames. I think welding checks most of those boxes.

You also have to remember when welding thru a spray can you need to wear the appropriate organic respirator, the chemicals released are toxic and can cause problems for people who have low tolerance levels.

Steel it product description:
http://www.steel-it.com/polyurethane-stainless-steel-coatings-10

Anything designed for bare metal, if you want to stick with spray cans i'd just grab some SEM 39683 Self Etch. Can't go wrong with one coat of that followed up by the spray can of your choice. I personally like to use SEM 39143 Trim Black, it's a matte black finish. Gloss black frame rails and engine cages look shitty IMO.

 

Like I said, I wasn't doubting your knowledge. I'm just talking from experience using and welding through steel-it. And yes that shit gets you high as fuck when welding lol. But I've put worse things up my nose

 

Just wondering, is there any benefit to keeping the rubber inserts in the front fender wells? My little black clips are broken, they keep falling off and ripping, and I don't really see the reason for them. Was going to make new ones with better rubber matting but I'm contemplating just ripping them out

 

Also, starting looking into using bed liner or something similar on front fender well and inside of my fiberglass. What's the best DIY stuff? Any tips on applying it?

 

So I just payed for my allpro +2 LT kit. King coilovers in the front, allpro standard leaf and bilsteins in the rear. Can I be one of the cool kids now? Any recommendations to me while I have done nothing yet?

 

Some nasty speed bumps around here!

 

So took out my truck yesterday, I noticed a couple of times my power steering would get rock hard. Fluid is there, pump doesn't whine, no leaks or anything. I'm leaning towards the pump going out (possible the pressure relief valve getting stuck open or something thus no whining), I remember seeing Joel had upgraded to the PSC pump on the Dirt Designs kit. Anyone else have any input for a better pump? 15k miles of LT and lots of abuse and 65k miles on the stock pump or should I just get a OEM or reman?

 

Yukon grizzly, I daily mine lol works good, granted my axle is different, but it's a good locker, and if you have problems with it Yukon is quick to help u get back driving unlike Detroit who takes forever to get parts

 

Last one I put in I just resigned the relief valve so it pops open at a lil higher pressure, seems to be workin, we do the same thing on the race tundra

 

When I ordered my kings through wheelers, I lucked out in that they had a few in stock at the time and got them a week later. What vendors have you hit up already? I think for the most part King makes a few at a time and then the vendors get King to mail them direct to their customers after purchase so it can be hit or miss if they have them available. You would need them for a burg kit right?

Coot