Cynicalriders "J0hnny5 is ALIVE!" 01 build thread.

FYI..doing the doors and kick panels and under the dash and even more important the back wall will be more beneficial then adding deadener to the floor. The floor is already pretty ridged and not super resonate.

Will it hurt?

No.

But if you want more bang for your buck and time..do the doors, the rear wall and under the dash first.

 

Good to know, really the floor is more about rust proofing and sealing. Glad to know it's not going to be a big deal to skip it while I have everything out. I do plan on doing the rest eventually but this was more just do it while I have the chance kinda thing.

 

It would help but not as much as the floppy doors or even the roof I think.

 

Cool. Eventually those will get some sound proofing but not in the cards right now. I stopped by Wal mart on the way to work and got this for $5 on clearance.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gold-s-Gym-36-x-78-Equipment-Mat/21672521

It's closed cell foam, pretty formable, and I think will make a good base. Going to cut it up and glue it down, as well as spray it with rubber sealer. Figure it will be better than nothing on the floor as a noise blocker and replace the padding the jute pad would have given me.

 

Finished my "big 3" upgrade and CS 144 install this weekend. It was time consuming because I'm a perfectionist when it comes to wiring and cable routing but not very difficult.

First ripped the old stuff out:



Then stripped the harness down to the shit I can eliminate:



Went with 2 Ga all around. Put my hydraulic crimper to good use.




This is as much as I built before I installed it on the truck and built the rest of it in the engine bay.



From there I moved onto the CS144 alternator install. I pulled the old one out and compared the sizes:





I got a converter on ebay that lets me plug the alternator into my factory harness without needing to make anything myself. For $18, it's def worth it.



In order to get the big alternator in I did need to loose the belt tension adjustment arm.

Here's a test fit:



You need to make a spacer for the top bolt. I tried fabbing my own but with no drill press it was hard to precision machine something. I ended up cutting the one I machined too short and said fuck it. I then took 3 washers, super glued them together and wrapped them in electrical tape. Ghetto but it works.

This was my attempt:



Took the thing on the right and made it the thing on the left.

And my washers:



I ended up cutting the tape off the faces a bit too. I just want something that kept it all together if i removed the alternator.

Final wiring in the bay:



And military style connectors with covers:

 

Love the ghetto spacer. Why not just use the washers and not wrap it in tape?

 

I wanted them to stay together and not risk losing them if I had to swap alternators on the trail. Also big thanks to @Blackdawg and @Digiratus for their experiences and write ups/doing the research haha

 

Nice right up. I like the super glue idea. I might have to try that next time I have mine apart. My spacer is a tad small and that brass sleave in the mount gets pushed in when the mounting bolt is tightened down. This forced a bit of creativity when we swapped the stock one back in for the trail fix.

Were you able to reuse your stock drive belt?

 

Yeah thanks to Monte's recommendation on the exact model haha. When i tried to tighten it down originally that sleeve moved on me too, I guess I could probably use another washer if I got the sleeve back out. How did you get the sleeve back out on the trail? C clamp and socket maybe?

 

We didn't have a small enough c-clamp (I do now) to fit in the space. Ended up using a socket and a nut and bolt. Monte can be very creative.

 

Holy shit thats a big ass alternator!

 

@jubei777 you are the reason for all this! Ya jerk!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...orado-gtfo-build.427567/page-25#post-14334127

Started working on the sealing of my cab/rustproofing. This all stemmed from a moldy carpet, which made me suspect the sealing of the tubbed firewall, which then lead me to finding rust. Turns out, it wasn't the firewall seal at all but actually a shit grommet for the new antenna I installed. Which makes sense since I had no leaky water issues until a month or so after I installed the antenna.



But alas now I am in too deep and a larger project was born. I saw @Robmonster117 reseal his firewall, and saw what Jason did and how clean his looked and decided to give my seal another go and really do it right this time. My outside was perfect, it was seam sealed and flex sealed and still holding up great and even looks decent too. The inside however was crap. Some parts still had jagged metal cut and folded over. Others I didn't even seam seal all the way because I was too lazy to take everything apart to get the sealer in there properly.

First step was rust removal and prepping the surface for POR-15. The passenger's sides rust was no where near as bad as the drivers side, but I still pulled the original deadener from that section anyway just in case. I inspected some of the bubbles on the deadener on the passenger side rear and it appears those bubbles were from heat from the exhaust and not rust, so I left that deadener in.




You can see a lot of the jagged metal still in the cab on the passenger side here. I cleaned that up quite a bit from what it was too.



Next up was two coats of POR-15. I got this stuff anywhere I could get it to go. There were some spots that still had bare metal in the little cubby behind where all the wires go so I soaked that area pretty well.




Next up tonight is more seam sealer on all the edges. I bought some gasket material rubber that I was thinking about using too. Still haven't decided if it's a good or bad idea. The concept is to put seam sealer on all the seams (duh) and then cover it all in a sealing adhesive and lay the gasket material on top. I can't decide if this is a good idea or will leave pockets potentially trapped between gasket and metal. I'll see what it looks like when I cut it all up.

 

Put some of that think hi density foam weather strip around the doors. Then the beeotch can go in wooder wiff no worries

 

Oh and I also found this shit. If you haven't checked under the jute padding in your cubbies in a while and you live in the rust belt I recommend it.



This is in the passenger side cubby, goes to the outside of the cab. It appears there is a pocket under the cab that traps salt and water, thus creating rust. The drivers side where the jack is has the same shit. Unfortunately I can't get these welded for a while so I will likely clean them up as best as I can and fix them like I did my bed, fiberglass. Ideally I will have a welder in the next year or two and will build bigger lockable storage cubbies while fixing the floor at the same time.

 

It would come through the speakers. I'm staying away from deep water for funsies, only for necessity anymore. Except slabs.

 

If the speakers are under water does that make them "sub" woofers?

 

I can weld it up for you

 

That's looking great, Mike! I know it's gotta be a pain in the ass, but it's so worth it. After hearing all of the stories recently about leaky tubs, I got freaked out and went total overkill mode. Hopefully it all works out!

Hey, sorry if I missed it, but did you get your front diff squared away?