Rear lift block? Why not(on road use)?

I can understand that a rear lift block may not be great for offroad use but is there any real reason to not run them on the street? I added a 1" ready lift rear block to my truck and so far I have not noticed any down side. I would have went with the icon or wheelers AAL but I only wanted 1"(not 1.5"). I remember a ford superduty that I previously owned had about a 4" block from the factory, and that was a heavy 1 Ton truck. I was following a 2017 superduty yesterday and it appears that they are still using a rear block from the factory. Any comments on the topic would be appreciated.

 

Not much of a concern for street.....

However - depending on what the block is made of (say for instance, alluminum) - you'll want to check the Ubolts periodically to make sure they're still tight.

Alluminum is soft - so over time due to vibrations & pressures - the alluminum can possibly flatten/deform in shape reducing their overall height which can leave your ubolts loose.
I've seen this countless of time with the offroading guys. Same scenario - just might take longer to get there.

 

The ones I bought were cast steel. Any real concerns on checking torque after the 500 mile check?

 

I would mark the bolts with a paint pen, just for piece of mind.

 

That would depend.....If you check them at 500 miles and nothing was loose - then you're probably OK for a while. But...don't take my word for it. It's your truck.....

If you find they're a little loose at 500 miles, I'd tighten them and check them again in 500 miles.

 

Wondering the same. What about cast steel 1" blocks?

Anyone with experience have problems with these?

 

I've had aluminum blocks in my truck for over seven years with no problems.

 

What size?
And do you ever go off-road?
(I know that wasn't the OP's original question)

 

I also had 2 degree alluminum axle shims under my 96 tacoma for at least 5 years without issues....

But I have known friends who had issues with aluminum. It could be any variation in the product or even the installation too. You just never know. If I had to do it again (any type of shims or blocks) - I'd get cast.

 

I recently added 1" cast iron blocks to the back. Haven't noticed any issues yet. Just keep an eye out on the ubolt nuts.

 

The 2015 I bought came with a 2" block in the back. I immediately ordered and installed a set of Dakar springs. I found it interesting that the centering pin on the passanger side had kind of wallowed out of the axle. Don't know whether to blame it on the block or loose ubolts. The axle was definitely out of whack though.

Moral: check ubolts torque whenever possible!

 

1" billet with 3*shim
Not as much as I'd like to.

 

If I add a 1" block to my setup that already has a 1.5" single AAL... will I need longer shocks? Currently running the standard length 5100s

 

That's kind of a double edged sword; you can but it's not recommended

can) but the shock will be very close or topped out leaving no drop in the axle, I'm doing it but I knew this going in.

 

As for the shocks - Do you do any offroading? If not...chances are, you can run the shocks you have now without maxing them out on compression/extension. If you're curious - here's a site that explains how to measure your vehicle for proper shock length. There are others out there....
http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/determining-shock-length-18665.html

 

Thanks for that article and info. Most likely going to save up and get a new leaf pack and shocks. Just do it right. Yep I like hitting easy/moderate trails

 

General consensus among all truck owners is 1" blocks are fine. Any bigger and you get wicked axle wrap and you need new shocks.

Most of the 4"+ lifts that are cheaper use a 1" block with an AAL and longer shocks.

I've never seen an issue with them, the older tacos broke springs with and without the block.