Another Exhaust Thread haha aFe headers w/cat + Y pipe.

Hey guys,

I'm looking to step up my exhaust game this summer and I stumbled across this. Just wondering if anyone is running one or have any other recommendations. I want a straight bolt on application and preferable stainless so its last up here with the salty winters haha. I'm not looking for my truck to sound like a V8 or anything so I was thinking of running this paired with just the TRD exhaust.

Didn't see anywhere in the info what this one was made out of tho.

http://urdusa.com/store/Exhaust-&-H...Y-pipe,-2005-2011-Tacoma-V6/product_info.html

 

Looks like stainless

http://afepower.com/afe-power-48-46001-yc-twisted-steel-long-tube-headers-y-pipe-street-series

 

I am also looking for opinions of what you all think, I too am looking to upgrade exhaust and maybe add headers as well. I already have a supercharger since birth of my 08 taco and this time 2 years ago I added and "aFe Magnum Force State II Si Pro Dry S Air Intake". I am more then pleased with both but still looking for more since I tow and live in mountains and lost power with my suspension life.

I am not really looking for top end speed increases but more for increased hp and low end torque. I tow my toys and have to climb 7% grades frequently (Eisenhower Pass and Vail Pass in Colorado) causing me to down shift to 4th or 3rd gear when towing (& 5th gear when not towing). I know I eventually need to re-gear after lifting my truck with 4" toytec lift (went from 265-70/16 to 285-70/17) back in 2010 but before that I wanted to add shorty headers and maybe a true dual exhaust to maximize the SC and cold air intake.

I was considering shorty headers by JBA or Doug Thorley but didn't know which you all prefer or think would be better combo with my SC and intake. I also see that Doug Thorley makes a Tri-Y header and heard thats better but I don't know much and curious whats best as I am not a gear head. Which leads me to next inquiry do those of you who are from Denver, CO area have a trusted mechanic shop who is recommended that would shoot me straight for reasonable price and competent install of these upgrades?

Like Bocsy44 mentioned there is link in his thread for all in one headers, cats and y-pipe by aFe but not sure if thats best option. I don't have ton $ but rather buy better long lasting option then cheaper less efficient/quality part. I plan to keep my taco for its entire existence hence keep dumping $ for upgrades and not buying a full size 3/4 ton diesel like all my buddies tell me. I just love my taco to much to get rid of it or buy another truck.

Since I am newbie and not a gear head I greatly appreciate your alls feedback and direction in advance.

 

x2 on this haha I know my way around an engine well enough but by no means am I a gear head either and don't know a whole lot about exhausts haha from what I have read, every one on here is running all sorts of different combinations. I have noticed a lot of mention of Doug Thorley and aFe

 

Bocsy44 and whoever else is looking for same info check out following link.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/for-the-newbies-inexperienced.47558/

I spoke to many so called experts since posting on this thread. I am no expert but for me I have made my decision.

I am going with following:
http://afepower.com/afe-power-48-46...headers-y-pipe-street-series#add-ons-packages
http://afepower.com/afe-power-49-46...3-409-stainless-steel-cat-back-exhaust-system

Since already have the Super Charger and aFe Magnum Force State II Si Pro Dry S Air Intake I wanted to stay with same manufacture from headers back to ensure proper fitting and no leaks. Also from research I have done over the years the TRD intake and exhaust systems had some complaints. I've never heard anything bad about aFe. TO boot the aFe rep gave me a screaming deal on those parts and well below any other online source I could find. Looking forward to getting them installed.

Still looking for reputable mechanic with experience to install them. Don't really want to go to Toyota or 4WheelParts as I am sure they will both rake me over the coals. Suggestions?

 

let me know how u like it/ how it sounds. my boss has a MBRP exhaust on his f150 and it gives me a head ache on long drives cuz of the droning

Edit: so I was just thinking/looking at my truck, now with the set up your going with, would the cats on the aFe after the headers replace the cat after the y pipe? or would the stock cat placement still be needed?

 

Will do but it may be a little while before I get them installed. Its hard to find any body in my area who is willing to do the work without racking me over the coals either that or won't do work at all because they are afraid of leaks and down want to warranty work because of the headers.

I don't know about the cats but I am guessing that this header & Y-pipe system replaces everything. Because it should bolt directly to engine eliminating exhaust intakes/manifolds & since it has a Cat already on back end. But I am not knowledgeable enough to take my word as gospel. Good luck with your mods & be in touch soon.

 

It may be worth busting your knuckles if money is a factor.

 

Afraid too as only work I've ever done is oil changes and tune ups. I have several buddies who are mechanics but even they say you need a header pro and exhaust guy. "If you break off bolt in header install you have to pull the whole engine". This is my daily driver and can't afford to have it tied up for weeks. I would thought good shop could get it done in a day or two...tops! This is far beyond my level of experience. I hope the mods are worth it but thus far I am starting to second guess it. Thank goodness I got screaming deal on parts. Looks like I'll be putting that $ and whole lot more right back into the install.

 

Bummer, it isnt really that hard.
If u can change ur oil, u can do this and it wont take more than a few hrs.

A "header pro"? Maybe for shorties that need to be welded.... not these, thats just nonsense.

"Exhaust guy"? For what?
Your not fabbing anything.

Rlly? they are making a simple walk to the market into an epic journey across the himalayas.

Am i missing something here?
What doesnt bolt on?

Im not a mechanic, but id never pay anyone to install my headers, y pipe, or catback unless it required welding (only because thats not in my back pocket).
Throw on jack stands, take off front wheels, take off splash shield rubber skirt deals, spin some nuts. Undo exhaust and ypipe, drop stock manifolds down.
Install new headers and y, pull off remaining catback.... install new catback. Tighten, throw wheels on, drop truck..... drive, let cool....tighten headers again.

Done no?

Oh, id suggest new 02 sensors all the way around... easier than fighting and maybe stripping factory ones, plus ur not gunna beat the ease of installing them while off the truck so get new ones and not sweat them for a long time.

 

Im wide open to being wrong... plz, tell me i missed a blatant part of this install.

 

Skimmed thru their instructions right now and sounds kinda like what i said, and lookie here.



Tools Needed: • 10mm, 12mm & 14mm socket • 3/8" drive ratchet • 3/8" extention • 14mm open wrench • O2 sensor wrench • Philips screwdriver

 

"inwood customs" I agree it should be self explanatory since its bolt on and no welding. But since I am no expert I have to listen to those who have have more experience turning wrenches then me. I live 2 hours from Denver and if I get in bad spot doing it myself I am screwed. Couple counties over checked with 2 shops and they said they won't touch it since they wouldn't want to be liable for the work and don't want repeat leaking issues as that got burned by this in the past. That makes me even more nervous for them to do the work if they aren't competent in their mechanics skills. Those shops that will do the work say its a 2 day job 6-8 hrs per day at $119 per hour. Idk about you but I don't have $1500 more after dropping $2k in parts for the install. I thought it would take 5 hours tops. I know I don't have the huevos to do the work myself.

 

Im at a loss, that just seems absurd.
You need to find someone on a forum that has that exact setup and installed it themselves, then talk to them.
I just dont see the issue these "mechanics" are running into, unless the system itself is crap?

It doesnt seem revolutionary, but somehow being treated like a unicorn.

Ive gone from stock to long tubes, to stock, to short tubes, to long tubes with zero issues. Y pipe was cake, catback is childs play.

 

I agree. I just talked to aFe again and they said just sounds like these shops don't know what they are doing or don't want to do it. aFe assured me the whole set up is bolt on and shouldn't have to weld a thing. Should take most if not all day just because have to heat them up 2-3x and let them cool in between and re-torque them but not take 2 full days. This is the problem with me being a rookie/newbie and these shops also taking advantage. But I;m better off in a sense because not matter how difficult or easy it maybe I refuse to over pay or take first option nor do I want a shop/mechanic not confident in their skills.

Thanks so very much for your help, feedback and assurance that I am on right track.

 

yeah man, u went the EASY way imo on the parts.....this should be a piece of cake.
I wonder about your buddies telling u about "header pro" or whatever they said.........def sounds like they just dont wana bust a few knuckles for you, or are unsure just whats involved.

URD headers woulda been a PITA, shorties woulda been a pita...........thorley longtubes, well...not bad at all.

Id devote a weekend if your really uncomfortable. Take plenty of breaks if ur getting frustrated. Sometimes if a header doesnt wanna drop out, walk away for 5 minutes..........relax, go back to it and it may drop right down. It should only take a few hours tho. Having help isnt even a must have......It may help, but I like to work alone and I dont remember any point where I needed help.

make sure to have a stubby ratchet with a fine tooth, it will come in super handy for what i think is the............... Driver side bank, lower set of studs, front most nut.
I was given this set from a TW member years ago and never thought I would use it, but this is the ratchet that saved my ass on that 1 nut

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Stubby-Wrench-and-Socket-Set-46-Piece-H46PCSTS/300117122



out of 4 boxes of tools, this tiny home depot ratchet someone gave me did the job


shit, if u can find a GEARLESS stubby ratchet, that should be even better!

 

my concern is how rusted the header bolts are, I'm just worried about breaking a bolt right off haha would definitely take some prep work before hand in my case, other then the header bolts, the rest aint bad, ive replaced cat back before on other vehicle.

 

night before, soak with penetrating lube.
I have an 06, and just swapped headers (again) about 6 months ago.

 

yeah that's what I was thinking, it will be a while before I do it but just like being prepared/doing some research so I know what I want haha

 

I have installed the AFE shorty Headers.
Here is my 0.02:
ratcheting stubby box end wrenches are a must!
it is extremely difficult to install driver side with alternator and steering column shaft.
Start with the passenger. It was fairly easy, that way you have an idea what you are doing.
I bought new OEM header gaskets to play it safe.
My truck is my DD and I can't miss work and don't like wrenching in an apartment parking lot.
Install TIP #1: Cut the air injection studs off of the stock headers at the air injection connection.
Even after unbolting the connection, I couldn't get much movement out of the air injection tubes to wiggle the stock headers out.
I thought I would take an additional section of the air injection hose off to facilitate removal
Ended up torqueing off a bolt in the block trying to loosen the passenger side piping. (2 hour install delay)
Go to the hardware store and buy (2) stainless nuts and (2) stainless bolts.
Test fit hardware into AFE header air injection before install.
The stock air injection studs should not be re-used.
AFE should have included this hardware. (2 years later I still hold this grudge)
Tweaking the remove process would have saved me the headache
I bought some heat tape and wrapped the DR wire looms when the stock header was removed.
It took me 8-9 hours by myself with some parts runs and a lot of frustration after breaking that bolt.
I would not call this install extremely difficult skill wise.
I would say it is time consuming, and challenging to find the best way to tighten reach the hardware.
Forget about trying to torque the header bolts with a torque wrench, ain't gunna happen.
I used the German torque spec: Gud-N-Tite
I can try to answer any install questions you have.