OSRAM LEDriving PX-4 for DRL in 95 Tacoma

Thanks for the info. That is the "Pedal Height Adjust Point" Actually according to FSM this bolt is to adjust the pedal height. Because in my truck it is all the way unscrewed that means my pedal height is max allowed by free play.

I never had a problem with clutch pedal and "I don't fix what aint broken", but being proactive I'm thinking if this can cause something bad in clutch master cylinder. What I'm thinking is to adjust the bolt to the point where the pedal will rest on the bolt an relieving the joint between pedal and push rod. But then I'm afraid the rod might start to rattle and that is not good either.

 

It shouldn't cause any problems with the clutch master.

 

Thanks, so I will not touch it. It's been like that for the last 19 years, so I guess it will be good.

 

It is hard to judge the light brightness on the picture as camera is trying to adjust the image for the best exposure so just comparison of the light brightness and color between Osram DRL, 6000K W5W LED front markers, and Sylvania Silver H4 bulbs in Autopal headlights.

No lights:


Osram DRL PX-4



6000K W5W LED in clear corner lights



and finally Sylvania SilverStar H4 in Autopal headlights Low beam together with 6000K W5W LED in clear corner lights




I can't turn on DRL with headlights (this is the whole idea of DRL to be automatically turned off when the "night driving lights" are on) but I put two pictures together with photoshop, so you can see all lights at once.




This picture shows, that DRL and low beam are equally "blinding" in the daytime conditions, so they are certified correctly. I checked them after dark (no way to take a good picture at dark) and they are actually lighting quite a bit in front of the truck. Like I wrote, it is not a LED BAR, but for sure it is more than "accent light".


Osram DRL PX-4 supposed to be 5200K color and it is definitely more yellow than 6000K W5W but just a bit whiter than Sylvania SilverStar H4 halogen bulb. The other thing I noticed is that the "slanted shape" if DRL is not visible when DRL is on and they actually match to the shape of headlights.

 

Researched about the "thing" the dealer installed to PO. I remember the dealer asked me if I want to pay for it, and I said no, take it off. What they did instead, they insert some small plate into contacts and the thing is disabled, meaning I can start the car without the original "key-insert". The name of that POS is "Loctronics". After reading on the Interweb about it, I'm definitely taking it out - my next little project. It's ugly and does not do anything except might get me into trouble some day. I knew I was smart refusing dealer to pay for this thing. Simple hidden switch under the dash will work the same.

 

I took a picture of DRL, how they are visible on a normal day. I am quite impress. They do shine a lot. I feel not only legal but also safer. On the top of that they really look like they were there 22 years ago, when the truck left the plant in Long Beach, California.

There are whole bunch of cars here with DLR that just scream "I won that e-bay bid for cheapest lights made in China". I'm glad my truck is not one of them.



The "China DRL" people would put either in the grill, next to the license plate between blinkers or simply under the front bumper - same what original OSRAM instruction shows. Hate that.

 

It looks like it is almost $200 now!

There looks to be a better shaped version that is less angular that may fit the looks of my 2003 tacoma better, but I'm not sure of the dimensions if it would fit under my headlight. Also, the wiring looks quite long and has much better plugs.

$140 SYLVANIA ZEVO Light Pipe Style LED Daytime Running Light Accent Kit, (Contains 2 Lights)

SYLVANIA ZEVO Light Pipe Style LED Daytime Running Light Accent Kit

 

The important dimension is depth. PX-4 is the shallowest from Osram/Sylvania series. I also checked some Phillips but they are bigger and take less power (less light).

Osram version of the "pipe" style lights is LEDDRL102 here are the dimension of the light from Osram documentation:



For comparison this is what I used:



The other feature I did not like (as it is not 100% legal in Poland) the Pipe style light do not turn off when headlights are on, they just dim to 50%. I did not want to take chances of explaining when I would get pull over. I wanted 100% street legal truck. It's the first and the only one in the whole country.

BTW there is a similar model to my lights LEDriving® PX-5 (LEDDRL301). All dimensions are the same except it has 5 light points instead of 4. But I encountered bad reviews from people complaining about brightness and durability after switching from 4 to 5 points lamps. I guess it must be true, as 5-point lamps are cheaper than 4-points lamps.

Speaking about the price Sylvania in USA is way overpriced. 200 bucks for "piped" lamps is crazy. In Poland you can buy same Osram lamps for about half of that price. This is while still in USA I bought Osram lamps from Amazon UK - with shipping was about 2/3 of Sylvania price.

 

Interesting, thanks for all the details. I haven't measured how much room is under the headlight on my 2003 (the 2001-2004, late 1st gens have the different front end) and there may not be enough room. I could probably design and 3D print a new housing piece with clips and stuff, but that's a lot of work.

I'd like to follow the same line of thinking as you because in California I'm sure I'd get popped and get a ticket for running any old LED light bar or pods on the road.

I don't mind the wiring/electronics and would wire the lights up so they would run the same as your install - no matter how they were designed to run. It's fairly easy for me to figure out where to put the relay and how to wire it to get the functionality correct.

Worst case, I would eventually just do some retrofits and have angel eyes in there as my DRLs - assuming they would be bright enough to be visible during the day.

 

I know CHP is not that picky for DOT as long as you lights are not crazy blinding (I've been driving my not DOT legal Autopal E-code headlights for the last 5 years) so you will have some room there. One of the options for DRL would be converting blinkers to LED switchback (If your blinkers have clear lenses). The great thing for 1st gen Tacoma is that LED compatible flasher is something like 15 dollars in Autozone (I wish I could have LED compatible flasher in my 2012 4Runner) so converting blinkers to LED is super easy with no stinking resistors.

 

Every light on my truck has been converted to LED except the A/C control bulbs and headlights. I got my LED flasher relay that plugs directly into the truck from superbrightleds.com - check there to see if they have one for your 4Runner, @RysiuM

Thanks for the reminder of switchbacks. I haven't seen them in person, so I kind of wrote them off as DRLs. My corner lenses on the 2003 Tacoma are clear, but have small amber reflectors to retain DOT compatibility for the 2003 model year. I'll probably leave them in there and see how it goes when I get around to switchbacks.

 

2012 4Runner flasher is quite complicated and specially design for this truck. It has total 15 active contacts with different functions built in including 5 input signals. It has separate circuits for front signal bulbs (use them as DRL), rear bulbs and trailer signal bulbs (utilizes trailer signals as trailer brake lights too). I have not found anyone making aftermarket replacement for it.

 

Very old subject, but I just found a video worth sharing. In Poland (and Europe) it is mandatory to dive with lights on all the time. The only exception is that during the day you can use DRL instead of low beams. But DRL must meet specific visibility criteria and of course have to be certified with "RL" and "E<country>" markings. There are still some morons who install cheap China made LED accent lamps and use them as DRL. How dangerous it can be you can see in that video. Caption is in Polish, but it is not important (just commenting and ranting), the image tells the story. Its scares the crap out of me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-f3BTJS95Sw

 

Update.
Really nothing to update . Three years passed and DRL work flawlessly. Zero issues.