To the high milers...

Don't want to start a new thread, but I have a related question... Anybody have strong thoughts on ABS vs non ABS? This is probably one of the least important factors for my truck search, but I want to know if people have strong opinions. I searched but didn't find much. Don't be afraid to link up an old thread if you have one.

 

I think I'd base the importance of that factor on whether or not I'll be the only one driving the truck. I'm no Canuck, but I'm comfortable enough with myself behind the wheel and not having ABS. If I knew a spouse or a kid was gonna be driving it, I think I'd place more importance on that option.

 

Personally, I try to leave enough space when following cars to not lock my brakes up. Off-Road, I doubt ABS is used much.... Too me, one more thing to break/upkeep

 

Sounds like I'm on the right track. I was raised as a defensive driver, and I've only had one accident in my life. I won't worry about ABS.

 

I appreciate the feedback so far. Let me try a more clear approach...

145k mile DC for $12,000
185k mile DC for $10,000
200k mile DC for $9,000

What would you do assuming all are same quality and drive well? I can't decide how many dollars each 10k miles is worth.

 

I got mine at 175K, at 250K now. I paid around $5500 because it was a 4cyl base model though.

 

The ABS question would be Just how did you learn to drive .

I can`t drive ABS vehicles the whole just press the brake pedal goes against 30 plus years of muscle memory

The same for a Automatic Transmission my left leg still goes to push the clutch

 

So I think part of the question needs to be can you work on a vehicle yourself? I bought mine with 270k, but I was able to redo head gaskets, replace transfer case, and timing belt etc. myself. I saved myself thousands of dollars in labor.

I would be very weary to purchase a 150k+ mile vehicle without any knowledge on how to repair a vehicle. It can get to be very expensive quickly.

 

I have another thread on here about beginner mechanic help. I'm going to have to learn as I go.

 

Just came across a 2003 DC 4x4 with 70k miles on it! Too bad the dealership wanted $17,995. Honestly, wtf?! I called them and told them that was an outrageous price, but I'd be willing to come down tonight and talk about something closer to KBB. They said they already had two people willing to put down deposits over the phone and it was pretty much first come first serve. Damn west coast.

 

I got my 1st Tacoma at 125k 2004 for $17k 8 yrs ago. and my 2nd 2002 at 98,250 for 13k No A.B.S.
my thoughts on the 2 models are: the non abs model is less complicated but.....you can stomp and steer as much as you want but in snow i don't like it at all. The truck just keeps sliding and is in my opinion is more unsafe at lower speed. But at higher speeds the abs is far better but i don't drive fast in snow or rain in fact since im boosted and re-geared i slide all over in 2wd and locked in 2wd high is like dukes of hazard! also the non abs model has the cable pulled throttle body vs. the fly by wire throttle body.The 2003-2004's are a lot crisper on throttle response but what i hate you cannot replace the throttle position sensor as it is part of the whole throttle body assembly so tps\intake butterfly were a single linked unit and it's $1400.00 when it fails and if it malfunctions it will start with a missfire type feeling and sound. But it will not throw any codes(very hard to figure out). I hated that and i bought the 2001-2002 for this reason alone. Also if you wheel a lot you can hook up a bicycle bmx mini brake lever onto the stick shift rod and run the cable up to the throttle cable and connect them together and then you can wheel with out having to swap brake and clutch foot and now its much easier to do technical wheeling on steep hills.

 

you can have a truck shipped\trucked anywhere for around $1000.00 go where they are cheap and either drive it back or have it shipped. I have shipped 2 trucks and 1 motorcycle with fantastic results!

 

Service history will be your best friend when deciding what mileage will be fair. If the 200k has had regular maintenance then I would go with that one. In my book, if a motor hits 200k it'll probably hit 300K with regular maintence. Just my .02. Finding a clean rust free Tacoma is a needing in a haystack. There is a 2002 Tacoma SR5 with 201,000 for sale here locally for $9,000 thats pretty clean.

 

I live about the same distance from work as well. Honestly, most days i just ride a bike to work. Some of the days that i drive, i'll do like you said an go for a little cruise after work. Also, there's some sand offroading around where i live so i'll go mess around there sometimes as well.