Home Improvement Today?

Yes rafters are birdsmouthed over outside beam , its just not very big because of the 2 in 12 slope , the beam arrangement didn't need to be as large as it is , thats the look that the designer / owner was looking for , we laid out the beam elevation so the soffit material will just run over the inside beam and butt into the outside beam , we will add our soffit venting strip between the beams so it will be hidden

 

Thanks. I'm really not that savvy when it comes to what you guys do...

 

Finished the shed ramp with some gritted deck paint.



Now to finally haul away all of the remnant construction debris and other trash the previous owner left in the back corner of the property.

 

Spent the day cutting more of the glulam rafters . Beyond the multiple birdsmouth cuts with pretty much every rafter being a different layout than any of the others and the plumb cut / level cut detail on the bottom of the rafter we also need to pre-drill some of the birdsmouths and the lower level cut to allow for a 1/2" x 18" lag bolt to attach the rafters to the beam , wall or header below

Trying to drill a 1/2" hole , 14" through the centre of a timber 3 1/8" wide at a 9.5 degree angle is pretty annoying lol

We are using a few different bits and a jig to get the bits started square to the birdsmouths and while I was thinking about how I would go about this I decided to drill up from the underside of the rafters because that way I would ensure that when the lag emerges from the rafter to go into the beam or wall below it will be centred and in the correct place , if the hole is slightly off centre on the top it doesn't matter .

The complication comes from the fact we also need to countersink the head of the bolt and washer about 7/8" down into the top of the rafter to get the lag to embed into the beam the specified length .

Obviously trying to centre a 1 1/2" hole onto an already drilled 1/2" hole was going to be an issue . I had a bunch of different ideas as to how to pull this off but what we ended up with was taking a page out of the tile setters handbook .

With a diamond bit tile holesaw , there is no pilot bit and you use a thin piece of material ( usually plastic ) that has a hole in it the same diameter as the holesaw that captures the bit where you want it until you get the bit into the material you are drilling at which point you can remove the jig fixture and carry on drilling because the hole in the material now captures the bit .

We did the same thing but with a 3/4" plywood fixture drilled to accept a 1 1/2" forstner bit which we centred over the 1/2" holes and drilled through to acheive our countersink

 

What a PITA.

That hole saw jig trick is great. I've ended up having to do that before for some reason on a couple projects.

 

Halfway through cutting the glulam rafters , hope to finish up tomorrow but that might be pushing it



We added some temporary outriggers and legs at the correct height to support the 84' long , 2 piece 5 1/4" x 10 1/2" glulam beam that goes above the concrete column line . The beam will eventually be supported by 3" round structural steel posts field welded in place but this is one of those chicken and egg situations , we need the crane to place the beam before the rafters but want to field cut and install the steel posts after the beam is in place .

The scaffold out front kind of gives you an idea what the dimensions of the roof overhang will be , the rafter tails will end up about 18" past the temporary cribbing

 

Took delivery of our 3" steel posts for the front beam line today

 

It's nice to see wood construction. I've built wood structures with my Dad when I was young but as an Architect I design mainly large commercial structures which are all steel. It's nice to see the quality of your work.

 

Got all but 4 of our glulam rafters cut and pre-drilled , will finish up the rest on Monday , if all goes as planned crane will come Wed .

Me and the other 2 old men helping me are tired and sore at the end of this week lol




Also picked up a box of the 3/8" x 8" GRK RSS structural screws we are using for a lot of the framing to rafter and framing to beam connections . This is not a cheap box of screws haha

 

I've been following this build Oz and it's pretty damn cool. I can't wait to see how it all comes together.
As for those GRK screws...I have used GRK before for my deck, also their framing "lags" and they are definitely not cheap but they are so nice and they are great to work with. Almost no chance of splitting of wood, and they go in so easily and exactly where you want them too, for the amount I need something like that I'll gladly spend the money.

 

Yeah , I'm a big fan of GRK screws

 

@OZ-T
http://www.fastenmaster.com/fastenmaster-2015/framefast-system.html
And I've been using the advantech glue and I will never touch a cualk gun again for glue. Glued some strips down to the floor to pull the front of a tub straight. And set one in the back to test. Full swing smashed up the strip did not move at all.

 

Cool

 

It's not much but I'm digging it.

Making headway on The Goat Locker. It's repurposed shell from the old well house (husband built a new one) and some of the lumber is from a discarded shelf from the historic Ahwahnee Hotel.

 

Got this cabinet today....working on my laundry cabinets, still too cold to wet sand and paint

 

BTW....this is a before, of the red cabinets...lol

 

I want that old pie safe!! It's gorgeous!

 

Calling it quits for the day.

Added flooring that's used (free) TrexDeck. Adding corrugated metal roof panels tomorrow (that I took off the old woodshed in the fall.)

 

And that's as good as it's gonna get. It is just for goats after all...

 

Oh this is gonna get fun.

I would never expect anything dubbed "Uber grade" to be inexpensive.