Post your mpg

I'm certain that those larger heavier tires will drop your mpg but I'd believe it's also very dependent on the agressiveness of the tread. I don't know about the lifts effects but do know like race car dynamics lower is better. That's why Toyota included a front air dam on my stock 2016 TRD sport 4x4 with manual six speed. It lowers the coefficient of drag. ( race cars are also primarily low for handling purposes but a race car with a lift kit would have it airborne ; not a concern for you ).
Certainly your 4x2 will do better than a 4x4. Lighter. Less moving parts that hinder mpg.
Best of luck.

You like me may be disappointed with the get up and go. I had an automatic loaner for the day and found it wasn't bad on the highway when you put the peddle to the metal. I've never pushed my manual but assume it would involve a two to three gear fast downshift skipping gears to get mine to move out fast on the highway. That's why in posted speed moderate heavy traffic I drive in fourth gear. I can pass easily or even drop to third and not redline it. But I haven't done that yet. I accept it's not a fast vehicle. It's a truck. Not a sports car.

However it seems to have plenty of torque as I live in a hilly area and can climb the three major hills coming home in third with lots of pulling power vs my old little jap sports model.

I think you'd have to upgrade non OEM to get more power and speed. But be forewarned! The Tacoma already has stock cold air input. But just a restricted paper filter. Any aftermarket filter like the Kand N won't add much if anything and unless you are on the track it may actually reduce your performance! Google kand n etc low restriction air filter tests. Also the cat back performance exhausts generally add little. Not enough to warrant the cost. Just noisey. However if you added the above with tuned exhaust headers that could result in more significant gains. Then again I'm not a qualified mechanic or engineer and know only what I've seen tested and not tested on a Tacoma. Also most of those additions seem to result in gains only at high rpms like on the track. Who wants to be shifting at redline all the time to benefit from that stuff.? I'm keeping mine stock including the paper filter that filters better than the k and n types.

Best of luck. Dannyblues

 

13 mpg city. That's pretty bad. You must be stuck in very heavy traffic like in Manhattan and in 4 WD. I get 14.7 in winter with a little 4 WD use and a lot of idling and warming up and mostly local with a little highway mixed in. The only time I've gotten 9 to 11 mpg is when I'd sit inside the cab for hours setting up the multi media stuff and going through the owners manual to learn how everything works.

I can't see how your position on the gas peddle should effect anything at all. Even though this is a drive by wire throttle. Which I don't like.
Dannyblues

 

2017 OR - stock, but with Access tonneau cover. Keep tires at 37-38 PSI warm. 25 mile commute to work (80% freeway). Typically with little traffic, I get 22 mpg consistently.

 

That's pretty good. At best I get that rarely over a tankful. Periodically yes but then the mpg drop on the way home. I live a few miles up steep hills. Unavoidable. I'm pretty happy when I can average 20 mpg on a tankful but usually I'm pretty close to that overall. Mines a manual and that's a minor penalty I'm told.

Your tire pressure seems a bit high even when warm. Mine only hit about 35 psi hot. I maintain 32 psi cold as per the Toyota shop foreman that says the door frame decal that indicates 29 psi cold on my 17 inch 265/ 65-17 OEM Firestone destination LE tires is actually too low. He recommends and sets my tires at 32 psi cold when I go in for service every 5,000 miles. I'm still under warranty with Toyota care for the first 25,000. I'm coming up to 12,000 now.
Dannyblues

 

That may be what Dannyblues means but he keeps saying non EO, which doesn't make any sense. NON E0 as in Zero not capital O, would mean it has more than zero ethanol. E0 is gas with zero ethanol without adding non.

 

Here is some enlightenment for you. You should have got a separate Service Schedule booklet that has maintenance at 5K mile intervals. Look at the 100,000 mile page and you will see something that can be summarized as this.

Replace engine coolant - inspect every 15k or 18 mo (replace at 100k/120 mo and every 50k/60 mo thereafter)

Oh golly I swore, but I'll calling your opinion on changing coolant every 2 years horse hocky, if that helps.

 

Manufacturers guidelines are just that, guidelines . They come from meeting EPA regs. and average use conditions of a vehicle , and competition from rival manufacturers . Yes , new engines and transmissions are much better than the old days and may need less maint.
But , take engine oil for example. If I change the oil in my truck and put it into storage for a year ,do I need to change the oil in a year because the manufacturer says change oil for x miles or 12 months even though it has not been used ? A test from Blackstone says no from a test I had done.
I believe the EPA is mandating auto fluids intervals and the manufacturers must comply . As long as the vehicle lasts the 5 year 60K they are complying . Changing fluids early can only cost more , but not hurt .

 

Truck has up sized tires (265/70/17), sliders and a toolbox in the bed with about 100 lbs of crap in it. Daily highway commute is just under 20 miles each way and decided to run in S5 mode instead of D to see what it would do. Was a little surprised with the results.



Average speed was about 60mph and usually in D I get about 21.

Works for me.

 

Filled up this morning and hand calculated 22 mpg. Mixed driving of city, country, and interstate. 2,200 miles on the truck so far.

 

I'll run a couple tanks of the Shell 93 and tell you what it does. I've got 54 tanks documented as a baseline. I'll bet you a nickel that the mpg is the same.

 

Fair enough. You are much more thorough than I was. My driving pattern changes since I'm retired and no longer commute daily in traffic with the same habits basically week after week. However I did try some regular tanks maybe two or three under fairly similar driving circumstances when the truck was fairly new but past the 1 000 mile break in. And I pretty much observed my as regular as possible habits. But I wasn't perfectly scientific about it.

I also saw at least one more post where someone else got up to 2 mpg more using premium. My 87 octane test was with non tier Sunoco 87 regular. As of today Sunoco is introducing its new top tier fuels across all octane levels. But I'd give them a month to use up their old reserves at local filling stations.

Best of luck but remember each truck can vary and an insignificant gain of 1 mpg isn't really sufficient enough to make greater gas mileage claims.

However I do claim based on the you tube videos I saw of Shell and independent engineers testing their claims of being the best top tier gas with premium nitro 93 being used and it was proven to be the best of all at keeping your engine clean as new. And that's why I use it almost exclusively. In between when I'm not near a shell station I've used citgo another top tier supplier and use their premium fuel with similar mpg results as Shell premium.

I suppose I could use any top tier fuel as far as detergency is concerned and add an occasional bottle of Techron or similar for the additional detergency but so far I haven't seen any documentation that any of those additives actually provide as much gunk removal as a customer would hope for at least with the one time use of one bottle as I witnessed in several you tube videos.
Dannyblues

 

Happily I totally agree.

First I never received the little maintenance guide line booklet and the 120,000 mine coolant change interval that I was mocked for not adhering to is obviously wrong. The guy who criticized me should go back to school. It states as he posted to change every 120,000 km. That's about 72,000 miles. Not 120,000. If he is going to criticize and do so in a crude manner he should get his facts straight.

I still don't believe any present day coolant maintains all it's inherent properties after two years or 40,000 miles so I personally will flush and change mine every two years. I also plan to change ALL the fluids more often than the manual states. It's my truck and my money and I don't appreciate being ridiculed
Dannyblues

 

100k = 100,000, the k doesn't mean km.

 

21.8 today after ~ 280 miles to get cheap gas. I knew it was going to be good when I had ~250 miles at 1/2 tank. My highest mileage yet. Lowest has been 19.8. 3800 miles on the truck.

 

That's pretty good but rolling downhill in neutral is cheating. Dannyblues

 

Excuse me but swearing is an obvious sign of ignorance. It shows the individual lacks a command of the English language or is as impetuous as a child.

Sorry but the k DOES mean kilometer but is generally used as km. In this instance however k means km. Sorry to disillusion you my friend. Be a gentleman. It's not hard. I'm a MAN and I walk, talk and act like one. Learn to learn. At 67 myself I am still teachable. It keeps me young. I'm also fallible and in some areas ignorant. Ignorant meaning unknowing but not without the ability to know. Stupidity is ignorance with the inability to learn whether through lack of mental ability or false stubborn pride.

100k = 60, 000 miles by the way.

Whether or not today's cooling system is so advanced that the manufacturers recommend the coolant be changed every 100 k or 100 km which is 60,000 miles I still disagree with the manufacturer who is competing with others to show the possibility of longer maintenance intervals. That's simply not true. It's a marketing ploy.

Today's coolants themselves still have inherent additives such as corrosion inhibitors etc that break down over time though the coolants ability to maintain freezing protection and overheating still remain intact. But you are doing your vehicle a disservice by not changing the coolant more frequently. Personally I plan to flush and change the coolant every two years which in my case is 24 up to 30,000 miles or more. It's my vehicle. And what I do need not be imitated by others. But I'll guarantee I won't be replacing the radiator core at 135,000 miles / 13 years which is about the common radiator failure on most vehicles that don't follow my maintenance schedule. Hey it's your truck; your money. Do whatever makes you happy. I never indicated I was spokesman for Toyota. You took from context ( another indication you lack the ability to clearly comprehend) , a post I made in reply to another's and we both agreed we felt a more stringent maintenance schedule be observed and both posted : in my opinion!

Please in the future be more observant. And do be more tolerant of others personal ( but unofficial ) preferences without talking down to them when maybe you should be talking equally man to man in a intelligent manner. And for Land sakes get your facts straight.

I remain. Humbly
Dannyblues

 

You are just wrong Dannyblues, 100k = 100,000.

 

I'm all stock on a 2016 limited double cab. I'm consistently gettigng 20 mpg.

 

100000 km equals 62137.1192 miles

 

Since Dannyblues is way off topic here I'll continue along with him.

Here is a picture of the 2005 Scheduled Maintenance Guide for my truck, which I presume Toyota still provides.

Within it it shows coolant change at 100,000 miles or 120 Months followed by note 5 saying:

Initial replacement at 100,000 miles/120 months. Replace every 50,000 miles/60 months thereafter.

I even included page 37.

If you have further argument about whether 100k = 100,000 or 100 km take it up with Renau001 who I copied and pasted the original 100k figure from on this thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-diy-maintenance-quick-reference.406712/