Cv angle boot solution..

Hahaha
Just saw this
my mistake

 

Replaced both cv axles last May . Both originals with about 90000 miles . Used Cardones , about 6-8 weeks later the inner passenger boot tore . I do not off road and have 5100s set at 1.75 .

 

Can't easily do it on a 2nd gen. Could SAS for less money.

 

You can fit the oem "splash guard" back on with some spacers, and now a couple vendors IFS skids have an option available for if you have a diff drop.

I hear this all the time. It does in fact help out CV angles a little bit. Not much, but it may be that little bit someone needs to keep them from rubbing.

The other one I hear is "It rotates it, so it's starving the diff of oil." My argument to that is to show me single person on this forum who has had a diff fail because it was starved of oil via a diff drop. It just hasn't happened.

Anywho, not running a diff drop is just fine as well, depending on your setup and needs.

 

If you can do a sas for 2500 I'm in! Let me know....

 

I did a diff drop from Wheelers Off-Road, and the growling from the driver side needle bearing is gone. The diff drop did improve the CV angle, and there is much less rubbing. I highly doubt there is oil starvation in the front diff, as the oil is drawn up by the ring gear, and splashes all over the place in 4wd. I replaced my torn passenger CV shaft with OEM. Found them online for about $320.00, give or take, from Toyota of Dallas. I will take the old one to a shop over in Ft Worth (HI Tech CV Axle) and have it rebuilt for about $80.00, as it was just the boot that tore, and the joints seem fine, mechanically speaking. When the driver one tears, which it will as I have been running OME suspension for about 60,000 miles and the boots have been rubbing, I'll replace it with the rebuilt OEM one. Then that one will be rebuilt, and I'll always have a spare.
The Toyota CV axle was costly, but I don't have to worry about aftermarket CVs failing. I also recently re-geared to 4.56, added ARBs front and rear, and Timbren bump stops. I was told to go easy with the front locker, and I just don't trust aftermarket CVs. The factory bump stops caused me to overflex the Dakar leafs, so I'll probably replace them in a few years too (when it gets about 150,000 on the clock). Now I need to rebuild my ICON UCAs, and I'll be good as new! Don't be scared of the diff drop, the factory skid plate still fits and the drop kit came with spacers for it. Eventually I'll build a skid, but for now the factory one will suffice.

 

What kind of lift do you have , how high and what size tires ? I am still contemplating a dif drop when I install my 2.5 " lift . Thanks for your input .

 

I have the Old Man Emu lift, with Old Man Emu Dakar leafs in the rear. I believe it's about 2.5 inches. I have Bilstein 5100 shocks in the rear, that was bought when I had a crappy puck and block lift. Please do not get sucked into a spacer/puck and lift block "lift", total waste of $150.00. I went with OME because I just couldn't see dropping the cash for the ICON set, although the ICONs are very tempting. Maybe when my OME stuff wears out... Tubular Upper Control Arms are a must in my opinion. The truck did fine with the stock UCAs, but the ride was greatly improved with the aftermarket ones. I have ICONs (the tubular ones, not the billet) and the ride was greatly improved and the camber angles are correct. I am running Cooper ST MAXX in 285/75/17 (right at 33 inches) and finally re-geared to 4.56. Probably was not necessary (neither was the lift) but the drivability is back. No more down shifting on uphill roads, and it's much "peppier" around town. The diff drop was a result of the CV boot tearing. Wheelers Off Road is basically a one stop shop all your needs, and they have a diff drop kit for about $35.00 that comes with the spacer for the factory skid plate. I was leery of getting the diff drop because I read on here that a user had cracked his front diff on a rock as a result of the drop. I weighed the pros and cons, and decided to get the spacer. I will be building my own skid plate that will protect the front diff, so I'm not worried about it. Send me a PM if you want pics of any of my "setup", including CV angles, diff drop, or whatever.

 

The theory behind the oil starvation is for the pinion bearing, when the diff is tilted down in the front the pinion isn't seeing as much oil as before. I don't necessarily believe it will lead to premature failure, but it is something to consider before doing a diff drop.

Also this is the thread about the destroyed diff
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/remove-the-differential-drop-on-your-05-tacoma.118545/

People's best choice concerning the diff drop will have to be based on their own usage. If someone drives fast, rock crawls, or any other rough offroading then I don't think it's a good choice. The cost of replacing boots every several 10k miles is nothing compared to the cost of replacing a front diff completely. Be aware, if you destroy the case it's not just a core swap, you have to buy the WHOLE thing and any other components that get broken. You're looking at easily over $1000. $1000 can buy a shit load of boots

You can get OEM complete CV rebuild kits for $36
http://www.toyotamcdonoughparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-boot-kit-0442804010/?c=Zz1mcm9udC1kcml2ZS1heGxlJnM9YXhsZS1zaGFmdHMtYW5kLWpvaW50cyZhPXRveW90YSZvPXRhY29tYSZ5PTIwMTMmdD1iYXNlJmU9NC0wbC12Ni1nYXM=

Or you can throw in high angle boots and not worry about it for a long while.

 

I love when people link that thread about that guy destroying his diff while racing. That was a shit design in the skid plate and was obviously a weak point were he to ever hit something.

I challenge anyone to show a case here on TW of someone who's differential failed because of starved oil via a diff drop. Until that happens, I'll back up the diff drop and recommend it to people.

 

Read close, I didn't say I completely agree with it with it leading to premature failure.

Next the I hammer my 3/16" skid up to and touching the front diff I'll have to take a picture of it and display it so people understand what I'm talking about when I say it's possible to contact the differential even without a drop, especially if you aren't using a 1/4" IFS skid. The couple of times I've done it I would have likely been buying a new diff as the energy would have been transferred directly to the diff casing(if I had a drop).

 

Ah, gotcha. That's why I'd run a 1/4" ifs skid, but that's just me. Mobtowns is mega beefy and also works with a diff drop.

Sorry if it came across like I was targeting you specifically, as I didn't mean that, more so to the general tw population. I just get annoyed when people claim diff drops are the spawn of Satan, when I have yet to see some hard evidence backing up their claims.

 

I'm lifted now . Bilstein @1.75 in front and 1.5AAL in rear . Do not go off road much at all , if I do it's not far on logging roads . Reason I asked about dif drop is I'm moving up to 6112s set at 2.5. And a2"AAL . Have tore 2 boots with my old lift in 7 years . So not too bad . I have the TC UCAs going in with the new lift and 285/70 17s . Probably go with DD . Thanks for your input .

 

Yeah, I'm looking at 1/4" skids, the 3/16" isn't cutting it.

 

Both mobtown and BAMF make some really bad ass skids

 

I ripped mine twice in one month. The shop I take it too ended up finding longer silicone ones for the inner cv. they look a little funny but no rips since. I can ask where he got them.

 

I don't know how much each manufacturer spaces their skids from the front diff, but after a trail or 2 my IFS looks like this. Things like this make me nervous on rock crawling trails.

That's less than 1/4" from the differential housing.