Dealership sheered a lug, should I have asked for a loaner until replacement?

I may be "anal" about my tire rotations. I always rotate the tires myself every 5K on my car and my wife's car. Never have had a problem. I have never sheered a lug bolt yet (although a shop once did on my MC trailer). Even when I put new rubber on my vehicles, the tire shop (Road Mart) let's me remove and replace the tires after they have mounted and balanced the new skins. Only problem was when I had my '12 Tundra...those rims/tires were heavy and I'm 70+ years old.

 

This worries me. With a "clunk" it makes me think the wheel was not mounted correctly in addition to the cross threaded stud.

 

As for lubricating the studs. The manual says "don't" for good reason.

Bolting hardware relies on the bolt/stud stretching to work properly and provide a secure joint. That amount of stretch is calculated and specific. The stretch is measured in a few different ways:

1. Length measurement
2. Number of flats the but is turned
3. Torque applied

Most commonly, we use #3 out of convenience. Calculating torque requires that some parameters are maintained:

1. Bolt Material
2. Bolt size
3. Bolt is made to standards
4. Coefficient of friction

Adding lubricant to the bolts changes the friction. If you torque a lubricated bolt to 100 foot-lbs you will get more bolt stretch than if dry. You could get enough to put the bolt past it's yield strength and the bolt will likely fail. Maybe even when you are relying on it.

The specified torque may allow for both lubrication or not, but the joint will be weaker when dry. That may be acceptable depending on the design of the joint and application.

In short, if the manual says don't lubricate the studs, you probably shouldn't.

 

I use anti-seize, always have, always will. The manual isn't a bible. And it never will be.

 

No it isn't a bible. If one isn't going to figure out the details and make their own calculations on how to obtain proper bolt stretch, then it's a good guide. The info in the manual comes from some smart folks.

How do you tighten your lugs?

 

Same here, l also use some on the mating surface between the wheels, rotors, and drums. My Ex's old car had the aluminum wheels stuck to the discs, they were damn near welded together!

 

I recommend getting a 2nd set of wheels. Too easy to get damage to the rim or sensor swapping tires every year Not to mention the ease of swapping in a 2nd set. And discount will program your tpms for free.

 

Might be good for those surfaces, especially if you live where corrosion is a bigger issue. If you are using it on the studs and using a torque wrench, you are stretching the stud more than intended.

 

Yes exactly, l do not use it on the studs as it would change the torque values.

 

Full disclosure: I don't use a torque wrench. Either a tire tool or an impact is all I use. I'm confident I under tighten the bolts based on experience. Part of the reason I don't use lube is I don't want to change what has been working and overtighten.

I figure if I start serious offroading, I probably should start using a torque wrench.

 

How in the hell did they not have a lug on hand?

 

I torque to 80ft/lbs on all my cars with anti-seize on the studs, no issues in 35 yrs and have had some of those cars and trucks 10+ years.

Haven't found a loose or frozen lug yet.

If it works this long for me I'll keep doing it.

 

I am using a 2nd set of wheels. They are swapping the sensors to the other wheels when they have messed up my sensors

 

That pretty well sums it up.

As you say, it's not so much about whether one uses something with lubricity on the fastener, but whether or not account is taken of the higher clamping loads on the fasteners and the structure it is clamping. Even if the fastener doesn't strip or fracture, there can be weakening of the fastener (necking/stretch past its yield point), or deformation/crushing of the joint components the fastener is clamping.

While the manual can (and sometimes does) have mistakes, I find it is still the best guide for my purposes. And unless I feel I fully understand the manual's engineering rationale for a particular process or callout, or clearly see that something is a mistake because I have that level of understanding and have the resources to improve on that or correct the error, I use the manual. If I really question something the manual calls out, I have learned to research the subject rather than dismiss it as unnecessary BS. The trouble we have as vehicle owners is that Toyota usually does not release proprietary data (design loads, material properties, etc) to the public, so it is difficult to make an informed decision.

While I do most of my own work, I am fortunate to have a local dealership that has some well trained techs that do good work the few times I've had to bring vehicles in to them.

Anyway, appreciate your post.

 

We get nasty rust and corrosion up here, you make no friends in our shops if you don't use anti seize.

Believe it or not Toyota actually approves the use of torque limiting sticks on impact guns, very rare for a manufacturer to approve impact guns.

 

Torque wrench on all. I have been for years, or a torque limiter (stick) with the appropriate amount of torque, usually do all mine at 85-90 foot pounds. That is with anti-seize. Just my preference is all.

 

Exactly what I been thinking too...come on.

 

I would say they absolutely owe you a loaner!

 

Should have asked this question before driving away with it, at this point the question should be, should I take my truck back and demand a loaner?

I wouldn't.

 

I sheered a bolt off my first car. Actually, my dad did. I was trying to replace the hubcaps with waayyy cooler hubcaps and I couldn't get one of them off. I asked my dad to come take a look. It was stuck/seized. He got mad at it and stomped the tire iron and *pop* there when my lug. "It's off"

THANKS DAD!