Rear diff. Is this anything to worry about?

Should I worry about this? Look like diff is seeping.

 

Should be fine. Just check the fasteners and retorque to factory spec in criss cross pattern. If it starts dripping, it would be a concern, that's just weeping. Let me see if I can get a screenshot of the torque values for you from the FSM.

 

Awesome thanks so much for your help

 

I'd clean the area with some degreasing spray and keep an eye on it. See how soon it returns afterwards. If it comes back quick, I'd take it in.

 

Hit it with brake clean and keep a eye on it . It should not keep seeping.

 

That should be covered under warranty if you have a 2016.

Az

 

Manual puts the nuts at 18 lbs. In any case being a new truck, I'd mention this at your next Toyota care appointment. It may not be a problem now, but if it becomes a problem down the road, they will have documentation that you pointed it out and whatever they did to address it (check fluid, retorque bolts, etc...). CYA.

 

If you torque yourself, they determine there are tool marks, could they come back and say you might have fucked with it? Maybe best to let dealer hassle with it before you try anything? Just a thought.

 

^Smitty's got a point, but I think if you're careful and don't go in all ham fisted using an adjustable pipe wrench, you should still be ok. Really it depends on your mechanical competence or willingness to DIY something. Also like @GPsevinSixx mentioned, clean it and watch it return. The faster it comes back, the worse the potential problem is.

On another note, I'm glad I don't use actual torque values, I see different numbers from different sources. Confusing as shit.

 

At least one person who posted here is/was a master tech-- I am not one. Guessing by the question from OP, he is probably not one either. So take that FWIW!

 

There is a discrepancy in the manual???
I just saw the 18 value also...
Smitty and ghost ship have a point about not mucking with it and leaving tool marks.

I would just clean it and take a picture with associated mileage and keep a note of it if you go this route. I'd still keep an eye on it though.

 

Thank you! Much appreciated

 

FYI. This is on my 2016 OR 4x4 with 30k miles on it. Might just take it to dealer to at least have them document it

 

I'd go with what smitty99 said about not messing with the nuts and putting tool marks on it if you're not able to check the fasteners without marring the tool engagement areas of the hex on the nuts. I seem to forget about the consumer end of things at times ( I used to be a tech, ) and the warranties that protect us. I apologize for jumping at a quick response.

 

At 30k isn't it recommended to change the rear diff fluid anyway? If you're handy with a wrench, might as well change the fluid and reseal/retorque the 3rd member. Should only take you an hour or two max.

At the very least if you only change the gear oil, you could check to see how much comes out and see if there is any significant loss.

 

Yeah, 30K is quite a bit. I swapped mine out @ 5K and I got a nice gunmetal colored molasses concoction. Only swapped it after not hearing any diff or described howl sound as some have noted.

 

I just did my 30K maintenance a couple weeks ago. Really wasn't that hard. I'd recommend OP do his, but what do I know? I'm just some weirdo on the internet.


2nd gen, but I believe the information is still sound and applicable (with minor changes):
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/scheduled-maintenance-2nd-gen-30-000-60-000-90-000-miles.30893/

 

I am planning on doing 30K myself. Plan on changing front/rear diff, transfer case, engine oil, and all that stuff (well the stuff i feel confident doing myself).

 

If you decide to check the torque on the nuts with a 6 point socket and not a 12 point socket. Less chance of slipping and marking marking up the hardware looking like some amatuer effing with it.

 

I'd take it in. You fuk it up it's on you, they fuk it
up they have to fix it. If they notice you've tried to
adjust the bolts they may just blame you and again
it would be on you to repair.