Need Help: 2000 Pre-Runner 2.7L no start diagnose

Fuses all checked out and plugs are sparking. It's getting fuel but very clearly not combusting, just a flat crank. Put a charge on the battery b/c voltage was low, but it didn't have any effect. None of the vacuum hoses are broken/leaking, but could be clogged, I guess, they're old. I was able to feel that it was at least pulling some air at the throttle body opening.

Could EGR or PCV be causing this? What about a stuck valve?

 

Compression test is next. When was the last time you gassed up?

 

Compression test it is.

It's got a quarter-tank. Why do you ask?

 

I'd lean toward the egr valve, too. I hope you solve the issue, soon and good luck!


More Information for AIRTEX/WELLS 4F1650


AIRTEX/WELLS 4F1650

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Includes Gasket
Airtex/Wells is a recognized leader in engine management technologies, including a broad array of emissions components. This extensive portfolio of products – combined with company engineers’ intense focus on delivering products that fit and perform as well as or better than OE parts – has made Airtex a preferred supplier for professional technicians and do-it-yourselfers.

Features:

• Heavier circuit board material with specially formulated silver ink and wider pressure clip
• Mounting and connector identical to OE
• Sealant-coated plunger and outer housing
• 100% tested to ensure OE fit, form and function
• Gaskets and hardware included where applicable
• Carbon catching gaskets available for applications with heavy carbon build-up and release issues
• Ultra-precise flow rates and patterns match OE for minimal carbon buildup

Benefits:

• Superior wear and corrosion resistance
• Precise fit and size for ease of installation
• Extended life

Repair tips:

• Allow engine to cool before attempting replacement to avoid personal injury and fastener damage
• If trouble code indicates insufficient flow, clean intake manifold passages

Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 226602, 2562075050, EGR4010

AIRTEX/WELLS Warranty Information
3 years/36,000 miles; Advantech parts- 12 months/12,000 miles

 

EGR valves are commonly blamed, but rarely fail. Even if it was the issue, I"m pretty sure there would be a CEL, or for sure a stored pending code relating to the EGR system.

Have you pulled the valve cover, to make sure the chain is still intact?

 

I haven't pulled the valve cover yet - was working my way through the simple stuff. I can't imagine that chain coming "un-tact" in a relatively quiet, not rattling and clacking sort of way. Aside from throwing metal around in the engine, wouldn't it have thrown codes?

Either way, I'm working my way to that valve cover, trying to rule out simpler, more hopeful things first. Compression test will likely have me in there.

 

cranshaft position sensor would throw stuff out of whack too.

 

I have only had 1 vehicle exibit these conditions and not start and it was the catalytic convertor... it was so plugged that the exhaust couldnt escape. I daignosed this by taking out 1 plug and leaving it out and starting the vehicle... she started and ran, poorly, but enough to prove the diasnosis.

 

Time is getting the best of me on this one, so I've decided to have the Taco towed in and have a mechanic diagnose the issue. From there, I'll determine whether its something worth fixing myself, paying them to fix, or .... part ways with it.

My question is this: What type of mechanic is my best bet to get a no BS diagnosis and repair estimate? Toyota dealer, foreign specialty, a "chain/corporate" shop? There's also a local shop that covers a gamut of makes/models, including Toyo/Lexus with good reviews.

I've never employed a mechanic without having a specific repair. Ball-park, what price range am I looking at for a diagnosis, estimate?

 

Exactly. Check spark first. If none (which I bet there won't be if you smell fuel and the plugs are wet) then I'd be leaning crankshaft position sensor or similar. This is the device that tells the computer that the engine is spinning and to start the spark and fuel process. There's probably also an ignition fuse that you should check.

 

Foreign specialty. The dealer will jack you for every penny they feel they can get from you and you'll pay absolute top dollar for parts.

 

Just FYI on this one, and a general overview of my own diagnostic work:

Fuel pump and injectors are confirmed good, and spark was present on all 4 cylinders.

I pulled the crankshaft position sensor and tested it with a multimeter. The continuity was a little below spec, but there was continuity. I reasoned (maybe mistakenly) that this might cause rough start/idle/delay, it wouldn't likely be the cause of a sudden no-start. Truck was running fine prior to "no-start". Could I be wrong about Crank Sensor...?

Compression was good across No. 1-3 cylinders. The No. 4 cylinder compression was outright bad. Per factory repair manual, a few drops of oil did not improve compression, pointing to a possible valve issue.

I also drained a half-quart of oil, and it's clean, no water/coolant present, no metal shavings, etc.

I also noticed a crack in the exhaust manifold. It's an old truck, so that didn't surprise me much. Obviously, that's something that needs repair, but I concluded it isn't likely the cause of a sudden no-start; more likely its a byproduct of the bigger issue (again, my reasoning here could be mistaken).

Other stuff I did along the way: Cleaned MAF sensor, vacuum hoses are old, but unbroken and not clogged. OBDII showed no codes in memory and that sensors were "green-lighted" - I don't know why or how. New plugs, new high-tension cords.

 

Theres a crank and cam sensor I believe. Have you checked cam sensor? possible water in gas? What was the compression?

 

Hrmm ... I didn't check camshaft position sensor. Is it inside the coils? The FSM for 2RZ and 3RZ says its inside the "distributor" but the 3RZ-FE doesn't have a classic distributor, rather 2 ignition coils.

What would have caused water in gasoline? I can't see how that would happen in normal course of engine usage.

 

Good luck with this. I'm interested to see what it ends up being.

 

oK YOU HAVE THE 2RZ. As far as water in gas either from gas station or also condensation. That's why I asked when did you fill up last.

 

It's a 3RZ-FE A/T (2WD, 2000 PRE-RUNNER), but the FSM is for RZ series. Pre-Runner has 3RZ and A/T.

Probably not water in gas (though not outside realm of possibility). That wouldn't account for compression loss on Cylinder 4.

 

Whats the compression? Cam sensor is in head by intake manifold. I'll find some info or a pic

 

The 2003 FSM covers the dist. less ignition.

 

Just an update in case anyone was waiting patiently to learn the issue. The mechanic found a cracked injector o-ring, causing fuel to leak, which may explain fuel smell. Not sure how I didn't catch that, unless it was on the 4 cylinder, where I can't see.

He said the cylinders were flooded out pretty bad, so he pulled plugs and cleaned them out, added a little oil for the rings and, he says, it starts right up. Said he left it overnight, and it fired up no problem this morning. All cheap fixes. I'd rather not have to pay for labor that simple, but I had my shot and couldn;t get it running. I'll shut up and pay up.

We'll see how it fares over the next week or so, but hopefully I won't be back to this thread. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.