Turbo BS Thread

Yeah that truck is amazing. I wish I had that kind of attention to detail. Think it was a gt3076r and he had it tuned at 3 settings. 22 psi was the highest IIRC making around 500 whp. I think that's a pretty fair price especially at such low miles. There are tons of guys taking the Tacoma legacy a little too seriously asking $20,000 for their first gens, lol.

Considering how much abuse my engine has taken and how resilient it has been, if I were to ever go forged I would have no hesitation to boost the thing up to 25 psi daily driving.

 

hey if you have the bottom end and the head gaskets to support it..anything will take the boost.

Say you're trying to sell yours too haha

can i haz da turbo?

 

You can be first in line if I do. All I really want is to get a 4-door. I assumed selling my truck would get me enough cash but there's like 0 interest so now I'm wondering if it'd be cost effective (relatively speaking) to find a hammered 4 door and swap my engine/trans. I see them from time to time local for $4-6K and since I would want to have a 5-speed anyway it would be two birds.

I thought there would be a line for a turbo'd, lifted, TRD Tacoma, asking $9500 . Reverting to stock is my last option and even then there's no guarantee I'd get what I'd need. Everyone swears Tacomas are indestructible yet no one will look twice at one with high miles

 

for 10k you should be able to find a Dbl cab 1st gen. Be higher miles..but so what?

Yea lots of people will run from them if they are 150k+. They do get expensive around then and you need to put in a lot of love to make them last another 200k or so. But still..worth it.

Im looking for a wrecked 1st gen to do a 5 spd swap in my double cab. I miss the manual so much...hard to find one though.

Honestly, I'd love the turbo..but i can' afford that haha.

 

Is the stock MAF and FPR capable of reading and regulating fuel to high hp (400 - 500hp ish) or do they need replaced? Asking for a friend that has a turbo.......

 

I see them go as low as $7,000 but they're gone in hours. Selling my truck for under $9,500 would be losing too much money though so I don't think I'll be able to go that route.

 

Tuning boost with a MAF is hard. MAP is much better. I would say no. Cap your MAF voltage as the boost builds (to keep the anoying ECU from throwing codes) and do all your fuel tuning referencing a MAP sensor.

Also for all you 5VZ guys out there, a fellow local member was over my place the other day to do some oil changes, etc... He's running a Tundra oil filter on his 5VZ, PN

$53 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10)

90915-YZZD3. It's the same dimensionally except it has a much longer filter element so probably less oil pressure lose.

 

Can we get a pre/post IC MAF discussion going in here? I know it's been discussed in the past but wtf is a BS thread for anyway. I'm running post now just because that's how CX kit was arranged but I'm thinking I should switch. Other than going rich on closed throttle are there any other cons of pre, and how rich are we talking?

With a post set up you don't have that issue but you have a constant battle between MAF and MAP readings which leads to a lot pf part throttle boost and the stock ECU is constantly chasing different LTFT's.

 

I'd definitely try pre turbo. My 87 supra was that way.

It had a recirculatory BOV though. Not that people wouldn't swap them out for a venting one all the time though.

The problem i've seen is getting the MAF pre turbo is the size of most of the turbo inlets people use are 3'' vs the about 2'' of the MAF.


Thought someone on here did move their MAF pre turbo...

 

I think I'm the only one who isn't pre turbo.

 

Really? Idk about that..

 

The MAF on our trucks (atleast the 99 year model) is 3" in diameter if you cut it from the airbox.
I did it pre and post and the only difference I really noticed was pre had a smoother idle I wanna say, but was much noisier since it was attached to the front of the turbo. Of course that was before I installed the F/IC 6

 

Noisier??

 

Mine is post turbo. I've never ran more than 1 psi of boost though. I just plan on capping the MAF volts and tune with the FIC MAP sensor inputs. Shouldn't have any issue with engine stall.

 

yeah since I have a 4" inlet on the turbo that got reduced down to 3" for the MAF it made it alot louder. I dunno why.

Well it made the induction noise louder, like an atomic vacuum cleaner. (very annoying)

 

I had a Turbo'd 240sx back in the day that we did a Pre-turbo MAF and I hated the running rich/backfire/stalling when getting off the throttle. I eventually got really good at braking while feathering the throttle with the same foot. I eventually fixed it with a specific setting on an Apexi S-AFC. It was so long ago I couldn't tell you exactly what the setting was.

So when I was building my current set up, I decided I was going to do a Post-turbo MAF to keep the idle stable when letting off the throttle. Also, since the IAT sensor is located in the MAF, it made sense to me that it would be a more accurate reading after the Turbo and IC than before both. It also prevents the need for a recirculated BOV. I like to avoid that just to keep the set up simpler and cleaner. When I'm not in boost, my truck runs just like stock. The only issue is after driving it hard or being on the HWY for and extended time and turning it off then back on after a short time, the MAF gets a little heat soaked and idles a little funny at first, but is fine once cooler air begins flowing though it.

 

If you're post turbo the MAF won't see boost at all. It'll read the exact same as it would normally and be mostly determined by throttle position. You don't have to clamp the voltage. The issue is your MAP and MAF readings are completely independent.

 

Oh yeah post MAF is also good to read post IC temps, very useful. Forgot about that

 

That's reassuring. I've thought about going pre but getting a second MAF post and only using the temp wires from it to solve that.

 

Didn't know our maf did the IAT too. makes more sense to do it post turbo then.

Well..that makes some sense. I mean the turbo's intake got reduced. Then of when you put a smaller tube on a vacuum. It gets louder.