Cynicalriders "J0hnny5 is ALIVE!" 01 build thread.

What about a soleniod for winch kill switch. Don't want...

 

You only need that if you put in cab controls for the winch, no?

I was going to relocate my winch controller plug to be in the cab.

 

I'd suggest it no matter what or definilty install a fuse in the power wire for the winch. That pic is what happens when large gauge wire shorts out

 

Also. If the winch solenoid acts up and engages while your driving or the truck is in the garage while your at work it will run until it binds up then over heat and with direct feed from the battery it will have enough juice to start a fire. That's why I chose shutoff solenoid over just a fuse.

@Reh5108 had some experience with this

 

Hmmm need to do more winch research.

I was thinking a breaker but that won't help the situations you are talking about, plus the peak amps a winch can see would trip a breaker non stop.

Alright so then maybe I need to rethink using a paranoid panel under the CB again. Only problem with something like that is that panel comes out whenever I take the bezel around the radio out. Unless I can find a way to hard mount it.

So then new mapping would be:

Panel Left in old clutch start cancel location:

Rear locker | Front Locker

Panel overhead similar to Steve's:

Light Bar | Ditch Lights | Battery isolator | Rock lights | Winch power

Clock:

Spots | AUX Reverse

Paranoid panel:

Compressor | Antenna | Blank | Blank

 

My wireless receiver shorted out and engaged the winch. Luckily the winch was not engaged. I really need to add a power switch. But until then I'll just keep the winch disengaged.

I use my front locker more than my rear FWIW. Might be because I don't like 3 wheel drive though.

 

On snow mostly? I feel like front has so much risk than rear between risking grenading a CV to grenading the ADD tube.

 

Holy shit.

 

Definitely in snow but on dirt/rock to. Having all of my torque going to the driver side wheel is worse than open. So I usually just engage it. I only engage the rear when the front isn't cutting it. I have not heard of an ADD tube failing. I kind of think spinning tires with open is more likely to break something than slowly hitting something locked. Less stress on suspension and drivetrain trying to climb up ledges instead of pushing up them. This is how I view it. I'm not on 35s either though.

Do you know of any builds that break cvs or ADD when locked? I can't really think of reading about any and honestly I think I'm the only one I can think of who has broke a cv. I'm sure it happens I'm just not familiar with any other incidents.

 

Ant broke his ADD tube when he had one of his wheels locked inside a rock on yellow jacket.



And seen some NE first gens blow CV's, I'd have to dig up the video. I know he was goosing it though. I also know it's typically when a wheel is turned that a CV will go since it's binded up. When did you blow a CV?

 

Trying to make it up this when I first moved to CO.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BR_DhQiDdzF/

I was trying to bump it, lifted my front passenger tire, it started to spin, then came back down hard on it and that was the end of that OEM cv.

No bump really needed in the video. It took a few times to find the right line but I felt way more in control of things.

I haven't really been anywhere since I've had the front locked that I've been bound up in rocks. I do have the "weaker" manual hub cv on my driver side. Haven't gotten around to swapping the passenger side yet so I don't have to carry 2 different cvs

Ant is a 2nd gen right? What size tires was he on? Are they the same front diffs?

 

He's on 36" super swampers, front diff is different though so not sure the differences. I guess I am afraid of blowing gears or whatever like people were doing at RT last year, but I think those were all rears, right? I guess it's going to be a learning experience like anything else of when to use and when not to use the front locker. I just don't want to learn that lesson at RT this year by breaking something.

 

I don't recall anyone blowing a diff this past year. The year prior yes. I think they were all rears.

On slickrock I don't keep it locked

 

Hey Ryan, I want to make sure I understand all of this since I'm still somewhat of a noob.

On something like slickrock, you don't really want or necessarily need to be locked because it's already a high traction surface, right? If anything, there's more chance to blow things up if the tires suddenly catch on that sort of surface, seems like.

 

I locked the rear intermittently. If the grade was steep I'd likely lock it, or if there was a combination of slickrock and mud/dirt, I'd lock it as well. Otherwise I kept everything open.

 

Things will tend to bind up since it is a high traction surface. Continuing to roll around with them on will start to generate a lot of heat. Heat is bad. It's basically the same as driving on dry asphalt in 4x4 for any amount of time. It's not as grippy as asphalt though.

 

Good to know for RT then. I used to lock on hill climbs at Rausch automatically but that's only because I know there is enough dirt to not let shit bind up either.

 

Also the crew on this page though.

 

That line choice is superior. Can't believe how easy you made that look .

For anyone that hasn't run Spring Creek, that obstacle eats vehicles on the regular.

 

Most steep hill are straight up and down so binding shouldn't be to bad. It's turning that really makes things bind.