Considering purchasing extremely high mile 2006 Taco...

Hi guys. I am considering trading my current workhorse ('06 Lexus IS350 with 170k miles) for a taco I found here in Texas. It has about 250k miles and is CHEAP. Like stupid cheap. It's from a used dealer so I am extremely concerned about being caught off guard.

I have some technical knowledge from working on Porsches, but I know nothing about Tacos and pricey repairs that could arise.

Specs: 4x4, double cab, 4.0L 6 Cylinder, Auto Transmission. 250k Miles. 1 Owner.

 

Check out the 400K thread and what parts that owner has replaced.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/400-000-miles.404359/

This many miles, I'd look to replace water pump, radiator, hoses, idler/tensioner pulley bearings, and ATF filter (although maybe not a flush unless it has been done on a 30-70K schedule). I'd get the alternator tested to make sure it passes a load test. I'd take a good look at wheel bearings, u-joints, carrier bearing, ball joints, control arm bushings, PS pump, AC compressor, etc... Maybe hire a local shop to give it a good lookover.

 

How cheap is stupid cheap, does it have a reconstruction?

 

Yeah depends on how stupid cheap, is it stupid cheap enough that if it requires a decent amount of work its still worth it? Seems theres a decent amount of tacomas that make it up to/past that mileage. But your 06 lexus with 160,000 miles might be in better shape, more info on the truck you're considering?

Normal wear and tear items listed above should be expected to replace if they haven't been already

 

Ill post the one im looking at here:

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...Radius=200&makeCode1=TOYOTA&modelCode1=TACOMA

I am calling them tomorrow to ask these questions.

 

As long as it ran good I wouldn't be to concerned. From the pictures it appears to be in very good cosmetic condition to have that many miles and looks to be bone stock. Odds are that truck was a work truck for someone and the miles are 90% interstate miles. Worst case scenario you can throw a used motor in it and be back on the road if a major issue arose and you'd still be in it for under 10k. Seeing it in person will be the real determining factor.

 

I've heard something about head gaskets being an issue for that year.

 

09+ years it what i would be looking at.

 

I made the trade...the kicker was it had a non-functioning A/C. The light is flashing and it usually either never works or doesn't work but takes a second to flash on startup.

I'm assuming I may have to drop 1k at an indy for the AC but im ok with that.

You guys think I should go to dealership to diagnose the problems, then take it to indy and get a quote?

 

Extreme maybe by GM standards. Mine also has 260k showing. Depends on many factors, was it totaled or wreaked at some point? was is serviced as needed? Carfax? I think if you dig a little, you will discover the reason it's cheap, then you can make an informed decision. I know of several with 400+ miles, 1-owner, less than average headaches along the way. I'm headed that direction also, Good luck.

 

The post right above yours says he already got it.

 

Yeah...I got the truck now. I am totally happy so far; frame looks great, runs well, feels solid.

Has a few dings/dents and needs new AC. Also, the cruise control doesn't work (I dont care that much).

Once I have AC nothing else matters. Texas heat is approaching fast...

 

Check the a/c relay before you drop a bunch coin on the system. The relays are known to stick. Swap it out with one next to it and give it a try

https://youtu.be/b-oETQXoe0g

 

Yeah...tried it. Didn't work sadly.

 

I hope this rig does you well. My wife just got her dream truck. 2012+ DCSB Pyrite Mica with 145k miles. Got it for under 19k. Hoping it does us well. If it's anything like my 280k mileage 3rd gen 4runner I'll be super happy.

 

My friend Gregg has a Lexus, older one. I forgot the model. He just passed 300,000k

 

If the CC and AC doesn't work is that related to the clock spring TSB or separate issues? My CC hasn't worked and I haven't gotten around to screwing with the clock spring because I stay off the freeways for the most part.

When you say the AC "doesn't work" does that mean no air at all (blower resistor likely) or just no cold air?

Does the heater work? As in, does it blow hot air when you crank the control to the heat? If not... You may really want to get someone to do a compression test. A stupid easy test to see if the head gaskets are good is to look in the coolant reservoir while it's running and check for bubbles percolating up. If you have air in the coolant then that's a huge red flag. I almost got a 3rd Gen T4R until me and a mechanic buddy checked that in front of the seller and I turned around and never looked back.

You have a mechanic you trust that knows Toyota motors, right? Who was working on your Lexus? I'd go to that person and pay to have them crawl over your truck with a fine tooth comb and inspect everything.
Might come back with only minor shit that you can do yourself, or...

Ask me how I know about post-purchase mechanical issues that weren't caught (other than the T4R) before buying.

Good luck regardless welcome to TW. Now lock your wallet in a safe and burn your credit cards before it's too late!

 

Thanks for the info orezona.

I am talking to a service rep @ the Toyota dealership. Quick answer on the lexus was I did all my own work, so no guy. But I have a friend who works at a local Toyota dealership who has some excellent indy references.

As for the diagnostic; the service rep wants to replace the entire ac system all in for $3200.

I asked him what the actual problem was with the AC not blowing cold (heater still worked) and he said there's a leak in the condenser and the magnetic clutch failed.

He still recommended replacing the compressor due to age and all the rest of the system.

What do you think? Just have an Indy replace magnetic clutch and fix the leak in condenser line ?

Edit- apparently minus needed diff fluid and trannny oil replaced, this puppy has no big issues.