Bilstein 6112

While I have the LR UCA, with the 6112's set on the 3rd clip-slot. I can tell you from the alignment numbers I was able to achieve and the position of the wheel in the wheel well that you'd be able to get acceptable alignment numbers with the cam bolts alone.

It might not be "ideal" numbers, but they'd be acceptable. With my Access cab, 4x4, 6spd I got ~2" of lift on the 3rd clip-slot and thats comparable to folks running OME 884 springs which are widely reported to be fine with the stock UCA.

 

I have 3rd gen 6112s set for 1.5" of lift on my truck with stock UCAs. My alignment numbers are in spec.

 

Thanks guys, i planned on not running aftermarket uca but wanted to make sure I don't need them. smitty99, how does your truck drive? Do you have larger tires?

 

Still stock wheels and tires. The 6112 /5160 combo with progressive 3 leaf AAL is actually an upgrade in performance and ride over my stock TRD OR suspension. I was very skeptical going in but I've been super impressed by it so far. It does maintain control and absorb bumps better off road. It also seems to hold better in cornering on the road. Also the superbump bump stops are a major improvement over the stock bump stops when bottoming out. Like I say, I was skeptical the lift would make the ride stiff or harsh but it did not do this at all IMO. It certainly isn't as "boaty" feeling as before but not in a bad way!

 

Awesome! i just ordered the same kit Monday with the add a leaf ( 3 leaf ). I can't wait to get it! I couldn't justify buying the king or fox suspension since i drive on fireroads 25% of the time. Where did you get your bump stops? smitty99 does your truck track ok at speed?

 

Wheelers is the only one that sells the superbump bump stops. I think it's their own product but I could be wrong. They go perfect with the all pro ubolt flip kit. Definitely worth the extra $260 or whatever I paid for the combo of bumps and flip kit. Call wheelers they will take care of you on that. The truck rides really well now on rough roads over washboard and washed out areas. Absorbs the big stuff much better than stock.

Truck tracks dead straight. When tightening down new ubolts just alternate bolts as you crank then count turns and keep an eye on threads so about the same amount is showing on each bolt. Also undo one side at a time and install one at a time...button one side up then move to next.

 

Awesome!! Thanks for the tips & I'll have to order the bump stops & ubolt flip. I can't wait to install my lift this weekend!

 

@smitty99 did you have to do any grinding on existing leaf pack rivets to remove clamp, when installing the rear AAL? Getting my Headstrong Progressive AAL in tomorrow, thinking about installing over the weekend... Just trying to get a handle on what the install is going to be like.

I know a lot of the 2nd gen guys with the leaf pack TSB have to grid the rivet and remove the TSB clamp when they Install a progressive pack... And I've seen a few 3rd gen guys mention it about the Icon progressive pack.

 

Yes, used an angle grinder with cut-off wheel from Harbor "Fright". Think I paid less than $20 for it...grind the shit out of the rivet down as far as you can to that bracket then I used a big pipe wrench and pried the clamp off the springs. I believe it's the rear one you have to remove. You'll see when you hold the leaf pack up to the stock springs where it would make contact with that rivet. Definitely need to remove that....the instructions that come with the AAL tell you to remove it. (At least the ones I got with the wheelers version of the 3-leaf pack)

Only other thing I had to cut was the excess length on new ubolts (did the flip kit)

You'll definitely be making some racket and throwing sparks, that's for sure.

Oh also once you get the guide clamp/bracket pried off you'll see remaining rivet coming off that exposed portion of the factory leafs. I just used the wheel to grind it down smooth and flush. Just be careful not to hack up the factory leaf too badly, I just ground it down smooth. It was pretty easy.

EDIT: You could probably cut right into that bracket if you wanted, might make it easier to bend/break it off of the existing leafs. Like I said I think you just want to be careful about mucking up the factory leaf so just be mindful of that.

 

Visual credit to @GPsevinSixx

 

Smitty, can you do a write up of the whole install? You're the go-to guy now!
Your posts across several threads compiled with some extra steps would seem to have some good tidbits of info and tips for first time installers.

 

Let's not get ahead of ourselves here. I am no expert!!!

Maybe I'll draft something up. The info is all out there but it is spread throughout various areas.

 

Expert enough to help these guys out who are new to the suspension install. It's way too spread out though, as you mentioned. Maybe get yourself a stickied post in the third gen tips section.

 

@GPsevinSixx I had already seen the post @smitty99 copied pics from above... Figured I might as well ask the pair of you while I can, just to make sure I more or less have it right.

So get a angle grinder, w/ a additional cut off wheel. Cut more or less 1/2 way to 3/4 of the way through the rivet head and into the bracket itself. Then take a hammer and break the bracket where it's cut to remove it.

So, then I assume you still have some of the rivet body still poking out... So either cut it off, or grind it down, either way until it's flush with the bottom leaf. Touch up with some spray paint for any exposed metal.

Does that sound about right? Do I need to worry about any peice of rivet remaining in the leaf itself (i.e. drill it out)? Don't know why I would as long as everything on the bottom of the leaf is flush... just trying to make sure I got it all down before I tackel it.

Thanks for y'alls help.

 

You have it right by my account but I pried mine off with a pipe Ranch I didn't hammer it also I used some energy suspension Grease to grease the leaf I didn't paint it

 

Yup, same as smitty said, but I painted mine though. Doesn't matter how you get the clamp off, just make sure it's off. Leave the remaining piece of the rivet in there since it's not easy to pop off. I just ground the protruding rivet flat and painted it, then proceeded to lube the leaf pack as I described in another thread. It was a guy with a pro that had squeaky leafs. Let me see if I can find it. Smitty followed those instructions too.

 

GP's AAL Lube advice here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-pro-issue.479982/#post-14635960

 

Thank you, I was searching for it. Lost track of it.

 

Teamwork

 

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