Manual transmission Fan Club and BS thread (All Generations Welcome)

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yeah i saw that... i figured you still had a Tacoma since youre on TACOMAWORLD

 

Nah. I'm just here to stir up trouble.

 

What could possibly go wrong?

 

some of the best mpgs I have gotten in my 17, was backroads 50 to 60 up and down hills.

 

that's a weird thing about this motor, or probably more about it's current tune... the mileage often improves with rpm and workload up to a point. or that's how it seems at times.

 

Most modern vehicles are tuned to get their best mileage at a higher speed than the cars of 20-30 years ago. Seems like they've been increasing their 'sweet spot' for at least half a century. My '16 does best in 6th around 60. My '84 does best in 4th around 45. My '69 does best downhill, in neutral, with a tailwind...

 

my mileage went from 14-15 to 18.6 after i stopped trying to improve it. then i just started to drive the crap out of her with a pedal commander and the mileage jumped.

 

So can you explain this pedal commander thing. I haven't done any research yet, but would love to have it explained for a cave man.

 

I have been setting mine to that Mileage Bar and have been fixated on it but notice the complete opposite, seems as mine Revs the mileage bar drops way down, don't think I have been over 4 Grand yet so maybe MPG starts to go up beyond that?

 

Who else came for the pic?

 

Oem Flywheels vs aftermarket.
Truck: 2001 Tacoma 4WD 5VZ-FE, 250+K miles.
I will be replacing my clutch soon with one with a heavier clamp load (Exedy #16805) and thought of replacing the flywheel at the same time. The first clutch lasted 150K, now the replacement and throw out bearing is wearing out. Looking at flywheels, I see OEM Toyota flywheels are $400 while standard aftermarkets ones are $50 to $100. Are they that inferior? If my flywheel is in good shape is it better to resurface the original one? The original flywheel weight is fine, I believe it is 22-23lbs. Marlin has a 23lb one for $120, having one in hand will save time going back and forth to the shop, but I don't want to put in anything inferior to what is there.

 

If you have the flywheel machined it will still have hot spots, and will be more likely to crack or warp because it'll be thinner. Plus you may have to shim it for proper engagement. If you feel the need to service it while you've got it out, I'd vote to replace it.

As for a replacement part, flywheels are pretty low-tech. Unless you're really beating on it, aftermarket will work just as well as the Toyota part.

Edit: And if you're working it that hard, you'd be better off with an aftermarket performance-type part anyway.

 

Thanks!

 

Tough call. Aftermarket usually has a much higher rate of quality problems due to cheap Chinese manufacturing and (more importantly) lax quality checks. Unfortunately, the flywheel is not something that is very easy to swap out if you find an issue. I would inspect the flywheel you have, and get it turned if its in good shape. If its out of spec, I would search the forums and try to find someone who has had success with the particular replacement you are looking at.

I had a Subaru WRX with 150K miles on it that had two torn CV boots. One had been torn long enough that the joint was shot. I figured I would go ahead and swap all the shafts out at the time I was replacing struts anyhow. I installed a set from Advance Auto (best they had), and experienced loud clicking sounds from the shafts. Knowing that often NAPA use to carry better replacements, I swapped the AA ones out for the "best" NAPA had. Those vibrated when accelerating. Of course the part is described as meeting or exceeding OEM requirements, but that is marketing hogwash. The low cost Chinese parts simply have very little in the way of quality checks, and the Chinese manufacturers often will cut corners if they believe they won't get caught. Sure, the importers will take the parts back if they are bad, but do you want to yank the flywheel more than once to get the repair right?

 

Sorry to be quoting something from over a month ago, but I'm getting a similar issue with my manual transmission. I've driven a manual since I got my license and all other cars I've owned with MT haven't produced the same sounds I'm getting out of this Tacoma (yes I know it's a truck, it will & should squeak/clunk/etc. and I can accept that from other parts of the truck). My concerns are only due to this being possibly drive train related. 1st, 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears I get a clunking, metallic sound when depressing the clutch and switching from one gear to the next. The same sound also seems to occur in neutral over bumps and as I let off and re-apply gas in gear while driving. Any thoughts on what may be causing this?

I'm wondering if I should check my U-joints for any noticeable slop, though I greased all the zerk fittings I could (not all joints had them) when I got the vehicle. There's no way the joints could see that much wear in 8k miles, is there? I have the 10k service coming up and may have someone from the stealershit ride around with me in the vehicle...

 

My Kinda Woman!

 

I have a thing for girls with tats....im now in love. Wonder if my wife would embrace polygamy? I'm gonna ask...

 

What's the rest of that photo look like?

 

Better chance of getting your wife to get that tattoo.