Colorado B.S. Thread

Heck teah just need to see if i can go this afternoon family is in town

 

Yes I'm a little behind on the conversation. Been busy.

Sorry to say I wouldn't trust napa cv's due to the inner child taking over me when I drive. I would only go OEM or CVJ. My cvj have been awesome but I do have to remove them soon and repack the lower joint with greese and reclamp them.

 

Maybe he just jumped it

 

Ill

Ill be here patiently waiting lol

 

I should have the bracket cut out this weekend. I'd have it done by now but Easter plans are holding up progress

 

Youre good man! Looking forward to it!

 

So this camera has little red wires popping out of the two yellow connectors. Any idea what they are for? They are only a few inches long. The red connector has power/ground.

The other camera is the same but minus the extra red wires.

 

Signal/shield. Probably red=signal and black=shield

 

?

The camera has two RCA's coming from it. The red RCA has black/red wires (guessing power/ground). The yellow RCA is just the extension. But at each RCA end, there is also a short red wire. WTF are they for?

 

So I decided to try and install this camera switch from Anytimebackupcamera.com

But, no instructions were shipped with it, and the online instructions seem to be clear as mud for someone who is not an electrical engineer.

https://www.anytimebackupcamera.com/install-instructions






Both wires coming from the Override Dongle will be connected directly to your switch. The wires can be connected to any terminal of your switch but if you are using a lighted switch you will want to make sure you pay attention to the polarity of the wires. The longer wire coming off of the dongle is the 12v+ Feed for the switch and the shorter wire coming off of the Dongle is the Load.


The Aux video input dongle allows you to 'tap into' the factory screen video input. This is a 24 wire harness that will plug into the factory screen, then the factory harness will plug into it. There are two RCA connectors coming off the harness, one Male and one Female. The Male is the video feed from the factory rear camera which will connect to one of the inputs on the Two Source (or four) switching relay. Then the output from the switching relay will connect back to the female input on the aux video dongle harness.


The Two Source Switching relay allows you to add an additional video source such as a front facing camera. The relay has two RCA female inputs, one for the factory rear camera feed and one of the additional feed (front camera), then one male output which would connect to the female input on the Aux Video Dongle.


The switching relay requires 12v+ to be connected to the Red wire, and the Green wire to be connected to a chassis ground. The 12v feed should be connected to a switch which will be used to toggle between the two video sources.




Nothing is labelled so I can only guess that the relay.. is a relay on the right side of my picture. The Aux input dongle is to the left of the switch and the override dongle is far left.

I thought I only needed one switch... but it looks like I might need two? And then the two (or 4 source) switching relay.. maybe thats the switch and not the relay?

It almost seems that the relay with the 3 RCA's coming off of it is not needed since I'm not sure what side of the switch they should be connected. And I dont really want to take my dash apart and screw something up.

No matter how I interpret it, I seem to be missing a male end on one of the RCA's

 

Jumps his truck one time, gets cropped pic as the headliner and suddenly knows all there is to know about what breaks and what don't.
They ain't broke yet.

 

The stripped plug, and the first failed attempt due to a really hard plastic washer that wouldn't seal.


New repair plug and Ford style gasket.
That gasket didn't work either. There was cursing at this point.


No threads to speak of.


Nice looking truck, really clean.
Those flares are my old ones.


Third time was the charm, was able to re-use the 2nd plug and this time used a Toyota gasket and that did the trick.

 

Harness is bad of course... Just my luck. And it's missing a male/male cable which spurred the confusion.

 

That's where your wrong. Truck jumped 3 times and two hard nose dives. Don't forget running open diff in Moab keeping up with locked crawlers. Oh that's right. You wouldn't know.....

It's so fun at you I can see you roll your eyes.

 

Well, you missed the point. But I expected that.
Three jumps, that's awesome, sounds like you have the take off part down pat. Landings may need some work.
Until you actually break something, you can't really say what is "the best". That's all I was trying to say.
What you have done is taken advice from some and ran with it in your build. Which is coming along nicely btw. Absolutely doing a great job.
I'm sure your long travel CVJ's are strong enough. You shouldn't have to worry about them too much.

Correct me, but isn't this like the very first set of CV's you have ever had? Or did you actually run the stock cv's when you first did the 4x4 swap, maybe for a few months? That's totally a long enough time to decide what works and what is to be shunned.

In Brandon's case, he's not interested in jumping it. He just wants to take pics of the truck in pristine settings, with his abundant supply of #EAF displayed for all to drool over, places we all wish we were at during the workday. His quest to find a vibe and repair a torn boot fell right into the category of Napa is good enough.

And furthermore...Speaking from experience here...
I have the highly coveted OME lift. (read sarcasm) It came with front shocks that are a bit over an inch longer than the stock set...

When I first did my lift, with my existing factory cv's with the green wrap, they would bind just ever so slightly at full droop with the OME shocks in place. I could feel the slight resistance as I rotated the tire by hand.

The Napa set doesn't bind. In fact when I disconnect the lower control arm, the CV will droop a little more before it starts to bind.

So I can say for a flat fact that the Napa Cardone units have the same range of motion.
Are they just as strong? I have no idea because again, according to the brain trust, I have the weaker set of shafts out of all the choices, due entirely to the fact that I have locking hubs on my truck so I have the thinner set of shafts that break at the slightest thought of curb hopping
And yet 4 years later, they haven't broken or leaked.

 

Way to screw yourself

 

I've been running cardone cv on the drivers side( I think it's drivers) for like 5 years now with no ill effects. I do have a oem spare though

 

Cliffs notes?


Here's one to you old man!



Can be a wind break, connected to adjacent panels or another full ceiling panel attached to any side.

 

And proof that I only collect headliner patches, mall crawl and talk about going off road.



The craziest part is it can still easily be bolted on and off. Well, other than the fact that big o did take it off to torque the lcas... And also blasted the bolts on.

 

Taking a hammer to it and throwing it up and down your driveway doesn't count