What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

It won't be hard to get down. I just don't think you can get it out of the cabin without damaging it (i.e. fold).

 

hi TW,

Quick question.

I am trying to tap into the fuse panel under the dash using an 'Add a Fuse' to get V+ when the dash lights are ON (as in when I have my head lights ON for instance).
Under my driver side dash, I saw a fuse box, and I saw ONE empty slot in the fuse box, and I thought I could perhaps use this one to add my add a fuse to get a signal when the dash lights are ON.
Here is the an image :


As the picture above shows, I have circled the one i tapp-ed into. But when I tested whether i get a signal (positive voltage reading) with a multi-meter, I get no reading (even with the dash lights ON). So looks like this couldn't be the one.

Can anyone help/suggest which fuse I could tap into?

It is for the back light of the switch to come on when the dash lights are ON (not to turn on the switch itself, I like the switch to light up when the dash/head lights are ON).
Thanks!

 

I'm sorry but that is your front yard!!???!! Holy crap that is an epic view!

 

You need to tap into the "illumination" wire from an existing switch, not a fuse. On my 17 ACLB I put a new switch on the Left side of the dash just below the cubby. I don't have Bed Lights, but the wire harness for it is behind the switch panel and I just tapped into the illumination wire on that harness.

 

How do I find out which one is the illumination wire?
If it makes it helps you to help me better, I am doing exactly what you did.
I put a new switch to the left side of the dash just below my cubby.
For me, it's a for my newly added off-road lights, and I bought a switch (mictuning) from eBay which has switch backlight (to illuminate the switch when the dash lights are ON).
(I thought wrong then that tapping into the same fuse for another switch/light would do the same.)

 

I used a 12V power probe to see which wire went "Hot" in the Cargo Light connector when the headlights were turned on. Don't recall what color it was but it was the only wire that went hot when the headlights were turned on.

 

If you have bed lights there is a dash illuminated light you can tap into at the switch. It's the pale green wire behind the switch. It's the common way folks illuminate their light bar switch. There is a write up in the "30 inch light bar install" thread in this forum. It tells you how to get the access panels off to get to the switch.

 

I like the 5100s, they ride well. I was really hesitant on messing with the stock suspension because they drive awesome from the factory, but i wanted clearance because i kept scraping the frame off road. The tires are 275-70r16 i kinda went for function over looks. I didnt want to lose gas mileage and all the other sizes are E load which i think is overkill for a truck this size.

 

How do you like the 886's in the front? Is there a winch in the bumper?

 

Got rid of the orange trim pieces that didn't match anything and made them blue since that seems to be my theme for the truck interior. Not my best paint job, but it's better than before in my opinion.

 

I can't remember where but somebody was manufacturing some metal grills that I saw on here that were around $600 but were 8-12 weeks out. These weren't any old grill either, they were sic!

 

Did the door ding mod today

 

See here for some hopefully helpful advice: Custom start up and screen off images

 

Flip up spare tire bracket I'm working on. It's just tacked until I finish my bro-science R&D.

 

Even if you don't have the bed lights, the connector for them is behind the switch panel. That's what I tapped into for my switch for a dash cam.

 

I'll bite . What is the door ding mod ?

 

That dent sucks. Being a fireman is great!

 

Put a "Chuck Norris was here" sticker over it and fuhget about it!

 

That bull bar though...yikes it doesn't match with the truck...but obviously your truck. Other than that, nice truck.

 

5100s just in the front or is there anything in the rear? Looks nice.