thinking of selling my tacoma to get a 4runnner

I'd say don't worry too much about the air pump until it becomes an issue. It does not add any power but will limit your power over a certain speed if MIL is on. It's also only active during start ups and possibly during shut off.

 

ok so if anything the delete gives you something extra by doing it

the main thing is, if it craps out on me, I don't have to do anything but add the delete mod and ignore it, that is super great news I like to hear

 

Sorry for the lengthy response, but I figured I'd give you my perspective since we bought a 2005 T4R Sport Edition 4.7 V8 brand new for my wife almost 12 years ago and we still have it...only 85k on the ODO! We absolutely love it and I wanted to share a few insights I've learned over the years, and over the past 3 months.

1. Don't let the numbers fool you that it "only has a few more ponies" than the Tacos...these things are bad ass when your right foot goes down! It would give a Mustang GT from the same era a run for it's money!!!
2. Love that the back window goes down...we actually use this for hauling long lumber, pipes and such more than my DCSB Taco because it's easier.
3. Had no issues AT ALL for the first 10 years of ownership...never had a single repair needed other than routine maintenance. In the past 12 months, it's gotten a little expensive, but every time we consider getting her something new, we always go back to how much we love this thing.
4. The main issues with these are a pain in the ass, but not insurmountable...Air Injection System and Exhaust Manifolds

Air Injection System (Air Pump): If it hasn't gone out yet, it will...plagues the entire 4.7 community (T4R, Tundra, Sequoia, and Lexus GX470). It's only used for the first few seconds on a cold start-up to dilute the exhaust gases by pumping fresh air into the exhaust manifolds. It does nothing else and it's only when the air is a certain temp outside. It's a pump connected to a switch valve which is connected to two more switch valves to split it between each of the exhaust manifolds. About two months ago, I was working on my Taco and when my wife started her T4R to go somewhere, it make a short but nasty sound (like a fox being thrown into a wood chipper) and the CEL came on. The sound was the air pump passing a "kidney stone" of the gummed up foam and a few bits of the impeller teeth downstream into the switching valve. Pulled the code and quickly started to panic when I researched it. Bottom line, I fixed it and since I had the whole intake manifold and both fuel rails removed to get to it, it was a great time to do some serious cleaning of the intake system and replace the fuel injector O-rings. I found a ton of references here and there that I had to piece together, but it all went well and she's running better than before. You can also by a by-pass kit that's plug and play which prevents the Air Injection System from ever even turning on. Some say it's not legal and it may be an issue if you have emissions testing where you live, but in the 4.7 V8 community there are A LOT of owners who install it preemptively.

Exhaust Manifolds: Also one of those "if it hasn't happened, it will" items...also plagues the entire 4.7 community. The OEM exhaust manifolds are cast and they all crack causing a ticking/clicking sound. It's worst when the engine is cold but some people's have become extremely obnoxious with how loud it is...ours isn't too bad once it's warmed up (can hardly notice it then). It's expensive because there are catalytic converters integrated in each of the exhaust manifolds. No one (that I've found) has discovered a viable solution that doesn't crack again (many aftermarket companies have been tested). Best solution I've found (waiting until I need to redo the whole exhaust system), is to install Doug Thorley performance headers and aftermarket pipes, cats, mufflers. A lot of threads on T4R.org about this mod...

But like everything else on the 4.7, be ready to cuss and contort trying to do what are normally simple jobs like alternator or starter (yep...the starter is also under the intake manifold sitting in the valley right behind the air pump). They really shoe-horned that V8 in there!

Please don't think I'm recommending you to not get one. Is it worth it? Would I recommend you get one? HELL YEAH...I tell my wife (when she lets me drive it) that it's my mid-life-crisis sports car.

ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT!!!

Good Luck--if you do find a 4.7 and have any questions, feel free to PM me.

 

thanks, and ya, first thing I plan to do is get the bypass kit, are they pricey? where is the best one to get?

why is the damn starter require you remove the intake? geeeeez that's just beyond stupid, can I at least replace spark plugs without having to pull off the intake? they should install it with a snap on intake like the air filter box if they are going to design things like this lol

no way its discouraging, I want this info, not afraid to get dirty, just too old to do much myself anymore so I want to plan for maint costs.

im figuring $1000 to have someone replace the timing belt/tensioner pulleys/water pump/thermostat kit, that sound about right?

 

If you're going that far preemptively on maintenance, might as well and pull the intake and do starter contacts. Don't swap for a reman, or even a Toyota reman. Just swap the contacts. Rarely will these Denso starters truly fail. Contacts just wear out, it's normal. Whoever Toyota subbed out to 'reman' these starters with only worn contacts is laughing all the way to the bank.

 

Also, don't know if you did the timing belt yourself on the 3.4 in the taco, but it's very similar with the 4.7 V8. Not hard, just time consuming.

 

My wife has a 07 4runner sport edition (nerf bars/roof rack) 4.7 v8. Very quick get-up-and go! When ever I get the chance to take it without her you better believe I get on it.

 

Yep...Just did our timing belt, water pump, T-stat, pulleys last year (about $1,000). No idea why they put the starter there, other than that's where it is on ALL of that gen of Tundra and Sequoia. There's a wealth of info on Tundra/Sequoia forums when it comes to the engine since they ALL had the 4.7 and are out there in much higher numbers.

Check these guys out...they also have some youtube videos on install. There are cheaper kits out there, but there's is literally plug and play.

A few other thoughts just popped in my head:
- Remember that T4Rs were just as prone to frame rust as Tacos so check it good
- There was a factory extended warranty that replaced the dashboards for free (due to cracking/breaking down). Most T4R dashes got spider cracks in them just above the glove box...not sure how long the extended warranty runs (had mine replaced last Feb for free).

Spark Plugs are easy to get to...just did mine last weekend with the Denso iridiums (about $9 ea). The iridiums I pulled out were the originals with 85K on them and they all looked and gapped good, but figured I'd change them since I'm doing a deep maintenance on her right now.

 

I ran a Seafoam treatment about a month ago and when they say to drive it "sportingly" after the hot soak...I was hittin' it and gittin' it! It looked like a smoke screen was being laid down for a full Armored Division assault

In all honesty, after doing the Seafoam and "stretching her legs" a bit, it purrs like a kitten and idled as smooth as when we bought it 12 years ago.

 

Damn...sorry I forgot the link!

https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=12

 

I thought they didn't have the same rust problems as the taco as their frames and everything else were built in Japan with a different company? I believe Dana, who is stateside, made the frame for Toyota for the Taco as the Taco is made in 'murica. I definitely haven't looked into it but will now. Curiosity is piqued.

 

My son also has a built 2001 T4R and we've seen some from up North that could give some rusty Tacos a run for their money. It's may not be AS bad as the Taco's Biblical proportions, but as he's been building his T4R, people have been scarfing up his factory parts to replace their rusted out ones. Just saying if it came from up North, I would check it good. My wife's 05 has lived it's entire life in El Paso and Alabama, and there are some spots at the welds and especially on the hitch that I plan to hit up this summer with a good brushing, primer and frame paint. And that's just from a few winter time trips up to Pennsylvania over the years to visit family.

 

I don't see what is "pre-emptive maint" about replacing the timing belt that I am almost certain will be 50k miles beyond its recommended replacement miles?

the only preemptive thing I had in mind was the air pump delete "before it failed" to avoid anything it might mess up if it fails.

from what I understand, you don't have to remove the intake to do the air pump delete, you just unplug the pump and plug it the delete module.

but thanks for the good suggestion, and yes, if I have to take the intake off "for any reason" I plan to do things like new injector seals and starter brushes

actually no I haven't, mine is at 140k thou, hoping to sell it on and avoid doing it if I can but I saw the youtube videos on it and it looks like no big deal, just time consuming as you say.

 

thanks, I take it these are not the double prong plugs like the 3.4 uses then?

 

The bypass is even easier than that...Just connects to the MAF plug on the air box. The hardest part is running the purple wire to the fuse box on the DS.

 

Correct...Single tip iridium.

 

sure hope nobody gets mad we are talking so much 4runner stuff on the taco forum, but the 4runner forums seem pretty traffic bare, seems it takes hours or sometimes all day to get a reply usually. in fact I seem to be the main one there replying to anything lol.

 

Oops, meant preventative maintenance. And it wasn't a dig, just saying if you're gonna do that stuff, which it should be done, might as well on the starter since it'll be easier with the front of engine torn down for the t-belt stuff.

 

no worries mate, I took it the way you intended it

so wait a minute, are you saying the intake has to come off to do the timing belt? no one has yet answered this question no matter how many times I asked it

 

I *just* did this last week. Bought me a brand new 4Runner SR5. However, I kept my '04 Doublecab. I joked with the salesman that he'd need to give me $25k trade-in for it. He seemed interested at first, then I told him I paid like $23k more than a decade ago. Taco will be an overlander/dedicated off-road/play truck.

The 4Runner is my new daily driver and tow vehicle for our camper trailer. The secure storage for the DC *sucks* (always has) since the only "storage" is the bed and 2" behind the rear seats that barely fits my jumper cables and tow strap.

With a 3rd row seat, I can finally take more than just my nuclear family places, and I don't have to worry about things that can't get wet on long trips being in the bed. The added power of the 4L is nice, too...