Long Travel BS Thread

Id just get some super bumps and add secondary triples and have it be your bump.

Bumping off the lower control arm puts the hydro in the last like 6'' of travel.

 

How do I unlock this plug to remove the pins? Tried pulling the white tab up and it moves a bit but I don't think it moved enough. Plug is located inside the cab on the driver's side right by the seat, its for the fuel pump, EVAP and tail light wires.

 

@Speed Freek

 

little bedside action.

 

Get a skinny flathead or actually 2 and see if you can get it from both sides, and clean it, that might help you see what you are doing, lol.

 

i bought one of these kits for these projects. as i always seem to be removing pins lol

Astro 78445 5-Piece Asian Terminal Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KH3MZ9O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Thanks brother. Cleaned all the grease out after the pic using some rubbing alcohol and a tooth brush. I only have like 6 wires going through it anymore so it might be easier to give up and use a weatherpak

 

Call Deaver. Scott can talk to you about options depending on what you're trying to get out of your truck. We've got a modified E30 set up. We have it strapped around 15". Could push it to 18" without much issue but we try to limit the pack separation to keep them alive longer. Anyway, personally I think people get too hung up on numbers. I'm sure you can easily push 20" with a 64" kit but the question is, are you going to build a shock package and tune it enough to notice the difference? How hard are you going to drive it and are you driving it well enough/hard enough to really tell the difference?

Anyway, we're pretty happy with the souped up E30s from Deaver and the truck seems to do alright.

 

Hey guys, need your help in making a final decision on my rear setup. Torn between Camburg's new bolt on LT spring under kit and the DMZ fab kit. I have plans to box in the rear of the frame and can weld myself, I would just have to invest in a small mig welder to get the job done. My plan is to hopefully get all the stock pieces off on one day and hangers, shackles and leafs setup another day. Trying to set 3 full days aside this upcoming summer to tackle the job.

Opinions on which route would be better? I'm 60% DMZ, 40% Camburg at the moment. Would appreciate some thoughtful feedback.

 

If don't have the tools to do it and haven't done it before I'd say go camburg less likelyhood for a mistake that could lead to problems or poor performance

 

Yeah, definitely man. That's why that bolt in one is so appealing is it takes that small margin of error of me screwing the hanger locations up.

 

dmz. I've installed tons of those and installation is a breeze. Instructions are very clear but if you haven't installed them before, I would allow for another day or two at least for unexpected delays. What are you going to do about shocks?

 

Thanks for the feedback. You do great work on those installs Jeff.
Have to ask, the Camburg kit uses the stock rivet holes to locate the hangers, is that the same case with the DMZ kit for proper hanger location?

I plan to run some King 2.5x16" Triple Bypass shocks

 

There are very clear and specific measurements for the front hangers that are very easy to locate. They are weld on. Front and rear

 

Very easy to do, instructions were very clear. The thing that puzzled me was that I didn't have to shorten the driveshaft. Have you ever had any like that Jeff? Mine is a 4x4 DCSB. I cycled it more than once and never saw the need. No c-notch and bumped at like 1/2" front the frame IIRC.

 

I def appreciate the replies here as well. I was on the fence like @Tacomoto23, but I think the clear answer is DMZ! Anyone have a PDF of his written instructions for the LT install? Everyone says they are straight forward with the references, but would be cool to see the documentation.

 

how big are Link killer shocks? i know they are 3.0s but they look bigger than just 18s. Could you use them on a linked truck?

 

No need to run such a long shock unless you are running them straight off the axle. Then you're going to need an 18 inch coilover as well. Big money for virtually no gaines.

 

only bad part of double cab links is how little space there is between cab and axle

 

Stretch the wheelbase of few inches and build a bed cage, or just run a coilover even though the geometry will get a little funky.