Check your 10 rear differential bolts

Hi all,
After reading about the stop sale stuff and all the latest info on the differentials in the rear leaking I decided to check the torque on my rear differential , I have the non-locking rear axle which the torque spec is 33 foot pounds. They were all very , very loose I backed the torque wrench down to 15 foot pounds and and they all gave me movement. the bigger off-road differential calls for 18 foot pounds and my smaller non-locking differential calls for 33 foot pounds. Anyways I believe that this is the source of the leak
highly recommend everyone check those nuts.

 

Thanks! Checking deeznuts as we speak

 

Thanks Hiluxski, you read my mind I was just about to look up the torque values but I'm glad I saw your post!

And I agree, that is all you need to nip the issue in the butt!

Happy motoring, go TW!
Cheers!

 

Checked my diff just moments ago, set my wrench @ 20 lb ft, all gave me some movement as well but not a lot, circa 1 ratchet tooth on my torque wrench. Felt like probably the "slop" of having been done to 18 at the factory. However, my diff is the non locking diff.

No signs of weepage to begin with.

This is making me think
BE CAREFUL TRYING TO GO TO 33

1. We know Toyota has made typos in tech manuals before (Like our 10.75" front rotors that are actually 12.5")
2. These are small fasteners
3. I have had service manuals over-spec torque values before and fucked up my power steering mount in my 1996 Miata because of it
4. That bracket had a 12mm fastener too
   
5. It's spec "was" 36 lb ft
6. It was "supposed" to be 18 lb ft

See why I'm getting this sinking feeling in my stomach??

 

My 2008 3rd bolts were loose and leaking lol

 

I just checked mine, they were unevenly torqued, bottom were tight, top were lose no leakage whatsoever, and yes I agree
with Nitori, these are 12mm bolts 33 ft. lbs. could be a bit much.
You'll need a 3/8" torque wrench, a 12mm deep socket to avoid using an extension which can throw off your torque value.

I tightened mine by hand instead, as I pretty much know by now the fastener stretch limit in a crisps-cross pattern like you would a tire, or up to opposite bottom, left side to opposite right side. I'll just be avoiding a trip to the stealer and steal his warranty $$ lolo!

Dry as a bone, but some were lose.



Hope that helps!
Cheers!

 

A straight extension between the socket and torque wrench won't change the torque value. Only one of those weird crowfoot adapters change the torque value.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/do-not-tighten-your-diff-bolts-to-33-lb-ft-it-is-a-typo.488483/

EDIT: Read this thread. It's 18 ft/lbs apparently

 

Any marking on those bolts?

 

Their M8 studs and nuts.

The standard max torque for M8 fasteners is as follows. They studs and nuts look like regular grade 8.8, so I am going to torque them to 18 ft. lbs. My diff is not showing any signs of leakage

Grade 8.8 / 18 ft. lbs. Grade 8.8 is equivalent to SAE grade 5

Grade 10.9 / 26 ft. lbs. Grade 10.9 is equivalent to SAE grade 8

Grade 12.9 / 33 ft.. lbs.

 

There not bolts, their studs and nuts, and nuts don't have any class marking. SAE grade 8 bolts as well as metric grade 10.9 can have a gold iridite finish

 

Torque wrench set at 18 did this.

 

That really sucks! So maybe people should just stop messing with their diffs and let Toyota handle it, because now they'll blame this on you.

 

Now what?

 

Yeah you guys may want to hold off and let the dealer worry about it so any issues are on them.

 

me when ever I try to DIY something 'easy'

 

Hammer giving bad advice as usual

Hope that helps!

 

Called my dealership. They told me they were aware of the recall and he spoke to his service manager who reviewed the recall and they "probably" would replace all the bolts even though there was no leak. Maybe this is a bad bolt issue? Appointment next Thursday morning. We will see. I mean holy poop my fingers can tighten to 18. (Exaggerated).

 

16.5 ft. lbs. of torque is common on Japanese motorcycles for an M8 bolt, so 18 ft. lbs. should not have broken off a grade 8.8 stud.

 

If you use a long flex extension or a universal adopter in conjunction with a long extension to gain easier access to the top bolts, your torque value may get skewed. Safest bet is a deep socket or short socket with straight short extension. Or at least that has always worked for me.

Thank you MetrickMeta, yes there are charts for studs and fastener torque values, I was referring to the nut diameter size that takes a 12mm socket and I miss wrote it. My bad, but to my defense, I don't have all day like $hitty99 I do have to hurry sometimes. Mia-culpable.

I don't think that was your fault man, it was prob factory's, I did mine no problems some were loose and I'm glad It's over for me.

Nah, I have no problems with my diff or any issues with my truck and I solve/fix my own issues, no crying here.
And this is a real minor stuff, nothing like your hollering about a diff. So you get no apologies and you're still a dick.

"probably" sounds iffy, and I truly believe its their fault. If they had the right torque from the get-go, you wouldn't be under the truck for that in the first place.
E'fm I would take some rear diff oil and use a squirt can and just barely put some on the other side along the gasket and say you saw it and panicked and proceeded to check and set your wrench to 18ft lbs and this happened.

Best of luck!
Cheers!