Truck pulling to the Right

OK I just saw you said it's pulling to the right and your camber is off on the right....seems like the likely culprit

 

Alright. The new picture is more gooder.

Camber will tend to push to the greater. -0.3 left is higher than -0.8 right. Thick which one is closer to zero. That would tend to steer it left.

Either way camber is fucked and needs correction.

There is also almost 3* difference in your SAI
That really should be within half a degree side to side. Need to figure out why that is

 

I've been to four different places to get alignments over the past 4 months. It's so annoying and I appreciate the advice on the camber. I'll have to get it checked again but I guess I'll take it to a true 4x4 shop.

 

a shop who regularly mounts and balances truck tires and does alignments on trucks. if they need to rebalance your tires by chance then not every shop has that equipment. but the main thing is to get your tires more square. as close to zero on camber, very close to zero on toe-in (you're there but it will change when they try again), and keep your caster as even and high as possible (like it is now more or less).

 

Here is a very good explanation of SAI for you. I think if you solve this you will solve your pull. 3.0* difference will never drive straight.

 

I also have a strange pull to the left. I've done my alignment multiple times, have balanced and rotated my new tires/wheels but still I get a pull. Let us know how you fixed it OP.
I'm lifted with Fox, TC ucas, and 285's

 

I don't even have to look at your shit to know its fawked up.

Camber should be near 0 and always equal left and right. Camber only slightly affects left to right pull, not as much as castor.

Castor should be slightly greater on the passenger side to correct road crown. If Castor is equal it will pull to the right. I believe some Toyo MT's actually pull to the left, so they can sometimes get away with equal castor.

Take it back and tell them what you want, they can do it, they are just being lazy. If they can't you might have to adjust the LR UCA's.

Castor helps with self centering, and if you have wide high offset wheels you can get away with less castor, because it also applies a self centering affect.

 

I just posted my previous alignment that i got in december when I had my old tires (255s) and first got my UCA's put on. Those alignment numbers are better than my current ones but still pulled hard right. Thanks everyone for the advice I guess I'll try to get it fixed this saturday.

 

Yes 12/16 is worse than 4/17. It is your Castor. It needs to be greater on the passenger side. The side with more Castor will push the other side.

Keep us updated.

 

Your second printout shows your rear toe is out, it shows the left wheel toe out and the right wheel toe pretty far in. It could be the rear axle is steering to the left causing the truck to move right. When you compensate for the pull (turning the front wheels left) your shit is dog tracking.

Your rear axle is crooked. Edit, not bent just need ubolts loosened and shifted back the direction.

Front camber is dialed (slightly more on right side to compensate for road crown)

Caster is dialed (caster has a lot less effect on pulling than camber)

Front toe seems good also.

Based on your original story I'm still suspicious of tires. If it was fine before tires and wheels your alignment probably wasn't causing it.

 

That's barely a dog track. Mine's around .28 and doesn't pull.

Here's the problem I had...the column stalks are not even in height. I had to do effectively 3 alignments to get mine right. First adjustment it pulled right. I told toyota service advisor such and they did it again, this time over compensated and it started pulling left. Took it to a buddy after that and he did it based on what looked like center, it was again pulling to the right.

I got in the cab and centered it myself and saw how trying to center the wheel with the stalks would end up with the wheel off center and would pull. There was enough slop in the rack/center link/tie rods that I had to wiggle the wheel back and forth as I slowly got it centered with the gauge cluster surround, and then manually held the wheel steady while my buddy zero'd toe in that position. Now it tracks perfectly, with a minor pull left or right based on the road crown.

Our racks have a decent amount of slop, and unless you're really compensating for the crown with some caster, you can expect it to pull a little based on that.

 

Any news after the weekend?

 

I'll write about it after work tofay. But it turns out a bad alignment as everyone guess. It's not fully fix but it is much better now.

 

I updated the bottom of the original post.

 

interesting. so I'm guessing they absolutely tried but still could not zero the left camber? and the right SAI is out of range according to that readout. i don't know what's normal spec, but if it is indeed out of range and the left front cannot be zeroed in camber, then it may indicate chassis damage somewhere. if they can't do it, then I'd go to a hardcore alignment shop that does big trucks and heavy diesel... those guys can fix anything if it's possible. you'd know cus those places normally algin from pits instead of drive up racks. they can diagnose and straighten frame problems. is there any unknown history with your truck?

 

I bought the truck brand new with 150 miles on it, so it doesn't have any pre existing issues that I know about. I put the lift on at about 3000 miles and before that I had a perfect alignment. I talked to the master mechanic and said he thinks he could get it in specs. They were just so busy that day that he did not have a chance to work on it. So next time when I go back I'm only letting him work on it. Depending how that goes I'll play it from there.

 

Did they or do they reset the steering angle sensor and if no will that have some effect on the slight pull issue?