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Unusual Tire Wear

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Nebrasker, Apr 3, 2017.

  1. Apr 4, 2017 at 10:51 AM
    #21
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    just trying to see the cam bolt position
     
  2. May 2, 2017 at 11:46 AM
    #22
    Nebrasker

    Nebrasker [OP] Member

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    sorry to dig this up but I made a fun discovery today. I'm thinking one of the knuckles are bent. When on jack stands the drivers side components hang about 3/4" less than the passenger side, so when under compression that makes sense that theres a negative camber to the drivers side. If the part wasn't so expensive id look into doing them both, but oh well. As an added bonus, my drivers outside CV boot tore.

    passenger
    IMG_7331.jpg

    Driver
    IMG_5143.jpg

    CV
    IMG_9987.jpg
     
  3. May 2, 2017 at 11:53 AM
    #23
    Nebrasker

    Nebrasker [OP] Member

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    Heres my thing though: The drivers side knuckle, aka the side with the tire problem, doesnt show symptoms of bending such as chips or flakes like the passenger side, which looks like hell.


    Drivers side

    IMG_8727.jpg



    Passenger side, large flakes - no tire wear though.

    IMG_6945.jpg
     
  4. May 2, 2017 at 12:13 PM
    #24
    mlcc

    mlcc Well-Known Member

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    That measurment will only apply if the ground and truck is perfectly level. Measure from wheel well the hub at full droop
     
  5. May 2, 2017 at 12:27 PM
    #25
    Nebrasker

    Nebrasker [OP] Member

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    The stands were both set same height, same spot on the frame. Measured from the ground up to frame to be sure
     
  6. May 2, 2017 at 2:22 PM
    #26
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    also measure UCA to LCA on both (this will tell you more if it's bent or not). disconnect your sway bar and remeasure ground to hub center, LCA, and UCA. rule out any possibility of something causing one side to not droop as far as the other.
     
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  7. May 2, 2017 at 3:12 PM
    #27
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    I'd just go ahead and replace all your ball joints, knuckles, and bushings, too. All those parts will cost somewhere on the order of a couple hundred maybe. Lots of guys (me included) like the MOOG brand. I went with urethane bushings. Once you pop all those pieces on, get it aligned.
     
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  8. May 2, 2017 at 3:32 PM
    #28
    Snowy

    Snowy Is neither here nor there

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    Do NOT get Moog brand parts they are junk compared to OEM. In fact please do not do anything this guy says. Throwing parts at a problem is not the answer. Everything you listed is over $1000 minimum and not necessary.

    Start with pulling, pushing and tugging on anything you can reach. Check for play in your inner tie rod ends, outer tie rod ends, lower ball joint, upper ball joint and wheel bearing. Watch for movement in your steering rack and check your control arm bushings to see if any are clapped out. Replace anything you need with OEM parts. You can skimp on tie rod ends if you don't mind replacing and warrantying parts store types every 20k. Do NOT get anything but OEM ball joints though. Moog's and other brands are not built nearly as well as OEM and when they fail it gets expensive quickly because you need a tow.

    Then go to a good shop and get an alignment done, ask for the print out after to verify the work you had done. These trucks aren't easy to align and in my experience a true alignment shop does a much better job than a dealer that just wants to turn and burn on the rack.

    Should be all set after that
     
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  9. May 2, 2017 at 3:51 PM
    #29
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Well, that's just like, your opinion, man.

    On what planet do you live where ball joints and bushings are $1000? Sure, if you have a dealer install them for you yes. Or, if you can turn a wrench, save yourself that $1000 and do it yourself, it's not rocket science. It just takes some time and some free tool rentals from your local Auto Zone. With the mileage that's likely on the OP's truck, a little simple preventative maintenance like replacing bushings and ball joints can't hurt. Maybe on your planet where it'd cost $1000+ to replace a couple ball joints, but on planet Earth that'll run a couple hundred at most if you replace everything, and do the work your self, or pay a buddy a case a beer to help you out.

    You're literally the first person I've heard about with such a visceral negative reaction to the Moog brand. But what do I know, I'm just some idiot on the internet.

    I do agree that you should go to a true alignment shop after your work, preferably one that specializes in 4x4.
     
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  10. May 2, 2017 at 4:22 PM
    #30
    jra

    jra Active Member

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    You could get a carpenter's angle gauge, they sell them at at Lowes and most big box stores, cost around $5. Park on level ground with steering straight ahead, hold gauge against center of wheel to see if it's tipped out at bottom, may be able to do same with a short level. compare it with the side that isn't wearing the tire.
     
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  11. May 2, 2017 at 4:55 PM
    #31
    Snowy

    Snowy Is neither here nor there

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    See prices in red above.

    Sorry, it was about $700-$800, real far off... :rolleyes: But you forgot that knucke replacement requires new wheel bearings as well, so throw in another $110 or so and paying a shop to press them on. Oh wait, now we are at about $1000 just in parts. But wait again...you forgot that the TRE's and by your logic you might just as well do those too because what the hell, replace all the parts right? Well toss in another $150 then too while we are at it becuase throwing parts at things is the fix in your world. Last I checked my time wasn't free either and doing all of this will take a minimum of a full day if you aren't technically inclined with air tools.


    Your call but no way I'd go for anything other than OEM after seeing the differences between the OEM and Moog/555 brands. Not to mention whether it's worth risking your truck or somebody else on the road if you have a failure.

    Check out these links:

    Ball Joints

    This is nothing new, if you have never seen strong reactions about aftermarket BJ's then you haven't been around a Toyota forum long.
     
  12. May 2, 2017 at 5:12 PM
    #32
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    @Nebrasker give us a pic of the camber bolts from the front, left and right. like this pic:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. May 2, 2017 at 6:48 PM
    #33
    Nebrasker

    Nebrasker [OP] Member

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    @Snowy @jbrandt I'm aware of the costs and don't plan on getting out the cheapest route possible. I just hit 100,000 miles this month and I'm more than willing to put in the extra money because its really the only thing wrong with it. My only concern is time becuase its my daily driver.

    I need to find somewhere to order parts though in the next few days but for now I'm gonna have my guy put a new CV boot on there just because I'm on gravel often and don't need that messing more shit up.




    Ill be back under it tomorrow, Ill get a good picture.


    Thanks for the responses fellas.[/QUOTE]
     
  14. May 3, 2017 at 3:58 PM
    #34
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    All I'll say is that the few hundred bucks in parts for ball joints ($30-40 a piece) and bushings (energy suspension kit for $60) (yes, granted, I didn't account for the price of the knuckles) I put on several years ago are still perfectly fine, and I went with the Moog brand based on recommendations I got on *this* site. Maybe if snowy was a member back then he could have warned me off the brand, but I still don't regret my purchases in any way shape or form.

    OP, you sound like you've got your head screwed on right, so take what both Snowy and I say with a grain of salt. It's been my experience that spending the extra cash on genuine oem parts is not always necessary. I beat my truck pretty good, and all my moog parts are perfectly fine. Maybe I got a "bad" (good?) batch, but I do quite a bit of research before buying anything, and I determined that the increase in cost of the OEM parts in that specific case was not followed up with a similar increase in quality or durability.

    So, you do you. I'm just offering an alternative that will save you some cash. I certainly am not suggesting going "cheap", but on the other hand, "most expensive" is not always the best either.

    I hear you on the daily driver part, my taco has been my daily driver for more than a decade (turned 140k a little while back). Anything I do to it needs to be done before monday morning! I find planning out your work and being realistic with what you can accomplish and you won't have a problem. I did my timing belt a few months ago, and that took a solid weekend, only because I was alone, and didn't work on it constantly, and was super meticulous (there I DID buy genuine oem parts), still saved like $700 in labor!
     
  15. May 4, 2017 at 8:25 AM
    #35
    Nebrasker

    Nebrasker [OP] Member

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    Sorry for the low quality, couldn't get to the shop today so I was just crawling around for these.

    Right
    IMG_6734.jpg



    Left

    IMG_1147.jpg
     

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