Pre-crushed exhaust on the new Taco?

TRD pro exhaust does not include the y-pipe, it starts at the y-pipe flange.

 

Ah yes, thats right.

 

URD and Doug Thorny Y-pipes solve the issue more or less as well, and remove the rear cats as a bonus... I like it.
Granted I'm not sure why both of them go behind the cross-member and then over by the passenger side, instead of around the transfer case like some of the re-routes that are posted... sure there's some kind of reason, just wish I knew what it was.

 

I was just about to go looking for that! Awesome episode.

 

You may be shocked to learn...but it comes like that. I was surprised too to be honest hahaha

 

Please elaborate.

 

^^^Curious about this as well. I was under the assumption the pro was the same in every way body related except suspension.

 

I think they're just saying the PRO exhaust is the same from the engine through the y pipe, then it's a different muffler and exhaust tip

 

It's not, the Pro has a TRD cat. Other than that the setup is the same other than the tip.

Maybe you just worded it in much simpler terms.

 

Hey guys, it just so happens that I have a Tundra up on the lift today so.... I thought I'd chime in with these pics to ease some concerns with heat or what not with your Taco exhaust mods (mod that I'll be doing to my 16 Taco pretty soon. I'll be running a true dual front to back exhaust all on the right side with dual side exits behind the rear wheel)
Yes, This is a 4x2 Tundra in the pics but the exhaust on a 4x4 Tundra runs exactly the same way.
So.... if Toyota says it's ok for the Trundra to run it this way, kinda makes you wonder why they didn't on our 16 Tacos....
Any how, per 2015 Tundra Toyota engineering there are no heat issues here running the exhaust mod this way under the shaft.
So carry on!

 

Chris at Scottsdale Muffler here in Arizona did mine for less than $100. They were quick and it turned out great. I was a little concerned with the heat on the electronic T case actuator so I wrapped the close section in motorcycle exhaust wrap and put some heat insulating adhesive foil on the plastic part of the actuator. I don't think any of the extra precaution was necessary as the actuator never seemed to get hot under normal driving. I just figure an ounce of prevention... All Pro has a skidplate with a drop down for the exhaust but for the price I'd have the exhaust mod done and get it out of the way forever. Seems like the exhaust system was designed with the prerunner in mind and the engineers went "oh, $#it, what are we going to do about the transfer case?? Any good muffler shop should be able to fix this quickly but if anyone in AZ is reading this, Scottsdale Muffler has done tons of these and can do it while you wait in less than an hour.

 

OK, the more popular way to do the reroute looks great and I really want to do it as I've also already hit and scraped the bottom of the pipe, but what will it do for maintenance of the drive shaft and differential if they fail or have to be taken out? With the stock pipe, you could easily remove both parts, but they are partially hindered now with the pipe reroute there and will Toyota say no to warranty of any of these parts for it, or if they say the heat caused the damage (even though we know it probably won't be too hot)?

 

I think that double walled pipe is to prevent it from getting too hot and accidentally torching off dry grass and shrubs people may drive over - it is definitely going to rub on anything the truck drives over. Another good reason to properly shield your pipe from below as well as above if it is low enough to do that.

 

I think the pipes should go thru the bed and straight up..... That would completely eliminate the issue of "Crushed" exhaust pipes....

Don't ya think..??

 

Thats a good point