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Debadging a Silver '06...think the paint will show?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by doughpat, May 1, 2017.

  1. May 1, 2017 at 9:39 PM
    #1
    doughpat

    doughpat [OP] Nerd With a Sweet Truck

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    I really like the ultra-clean look of a totally debadged/destickered Taco. I just bought my '06 and want to Do The Deed, but am a bit nervous about paint 'shadowing'. Not sure if color matters, but my Taco is silver. It has lived in Oregon its entire life, if that makes a difference. Any thoughts on whether I'll see much difference in color with an 11 year old paint job?

    If there was a very slight mismatch in paint, what product would help that to blend out?
     
  2. May 1, 2017 at 10:02 PM
    #2
    excorcist

    excorcist Well-Known Member

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    You won't see the difference, might get some buffing compound and scrub the area real good after debadging.
     
    doughpat[OP] likes this.
  3. May 1, 2017 at 10:03 PM
    #3
    JeffreyB

    JeffreyB Well-Known Member

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    This isn't exactly what you are looking for, but I took the "Toyota" emblem off of my silver tailgate when the truck was about one and a half years old, and you can't see any shadowing at all.
     
  4. May 2, 2017 at 4:13 AM
    #4
    bluezzy

    bluezzy Love My SuperCharged 07 Sport!

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    I live in Eugene but my Silver 07 Sport spent all its life in Bellingham, WA. I de-stickered it and there is no difference in paint color at all.
     
  5. May 2, 2017 at 4:23 AM
    #5
    dustin19d

    dustin19d Well-Known Member

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    Welds and Cuts and stuff
    Soooo it's seen a total of 50-60 sunny days in its life? I think you're good to go.

    EDIT: Never mind, you're in Bend. You guys get a bit more sun than the valley. I'm sure you'll still be fine. My silver 06 paint looks the same as the day I bought it IMO (Garage Kept)
     
  6. May 2, 2017 at 6:30 AM
    #6
    doughpat

    doughpat [OP] Nerd With a Sweet Truck

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    Thanks, all. Going to give it a go today.

    It sounds like for the chrome badges: Warming them gently with a blow dryer, then using fishing line (preferably braided, but mono will do) to "floss" and cut the adhesive. Then WD-40 to remove the residue.

    For the stickers: Warm gently, then just peel. WD-40 again for residue.

    Scrub thoroughly with some soap and water and I should be good to go....maybe slightly noticeable until I wax it.

    About right?
     
  7. May 2, 2017 at 6:32 AM
    #7
    JayRolla

    JayRolla Well-Known Member

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    I debadged my 96 silver 4runner few years back and no shadowing.
     
  8. May 2, 2017 at 7:54 AM
    #8
    ImpulsedComa

    ImpulsedComa Well-Known Member

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    I did my silver 2005 4 months ago and there was no discoloration underneath.
     
  9. May 2, 2017 at 11:30 AM
    #9
    orezona

    orezona title unspecified

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    Yup.

    Post pics when you're done...!
     
  10. May 2, 2017 at 12:43 PM
    #10
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    Make sure you use heat and not chemicals to remove the adhesive. Thats what will be more harmful to your paint.
     
  11. May 3, 2017 at 10:24 AM
    #11
    doughpat

    doughpat [OP] Nerd With a Sweet Truck

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    Holy crap. Getting the badges/stickers off was easy enough (floss with fishing line and gentle heating). But getting the adhesive residue off is not going well. I tried WD-40....that didn't do squat. Tried Goo Gone, that hardly made a dent. Lots and lots of scrubbing and it doesnt seem to be making progress.

    Any thoughts?

    BTW, love the debadged look....so clean and makes the thing look more custom in a funny way.
     
  12. May 3, 2017 at 11:20 AM
    #12
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    Clay bar and heat.

    Scrubbing is going to marr your paint and WD-40 and Goo Gone are not paint safe. Make sure you wash all of that off well.
     
  13. May 3, 2017 at 12:00 PM
    #13
    orezona

    orezona title unspecified

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    I used isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), hair dryer and the edge of a piece of clamshell packaging to very slowly pick at the old glue.

    Basically I only did the tailgate because after 2 hours I didn't feel like doing the side badges on the front doors. There was some ghosting on mine but I polished the hell out of the spot and now there's no evidence where the badges were.

    Derped the side badges and actually like them that way, but that's just me.
     
  14. May 3, 2017 at 7:21 PM
    #14
    doughpat

    doughpat [OP] Nerd With a Sweet Truck

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    Yikes. Amazing what kind of bad advice you can find on the internet. I went out and gave the areas that had been Goo Gone'd/WD'd a good washing.

    I've got some really high grade bentonite clay sitting around.. (don't ask)...I wonder if that might work. Its a powder though, not a bar. Might as well try it...probably just won't work if anything.

    When you use the clay bar, do you use that spray-solution they include with it? Any idea what that stuff is? Hoping its just overpriced-repackaged soapy water...?
     
  15. May 3, 2017 at 7:40 PM
    #15
    Justinlhc

    Justinlhc Not looking for a relationship

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    In the Arizona sun, I removed some of mine on an 05 and there is no fade.

    I used alcohol swabs to remove adhesive. It worked great and I can't tell an emblem was ever there.
     
  16. May 4, 2017 at 5:41 AM
    #16
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    You started the thread concearned about there being bleached paint, but you are using methods that will cause paint damage.

    Go over to the detailing section and ask about this in the detailer thread. Silver is easy to marr and taint the clear coat. So you want to be careful. You're right, lots of bad advice, but the detailers over there will set you straight.

    A heat gun would be best. Get a detailing clay with a luber (yes always use the lube). Mother's makes a great starter kit you can find almost anywhere for like $20.

    Take your time and avoid using any chemicals. Isopropyl alcohol diluted in hot water was a good suggestion. That might also help wash away any of the Goo Gone you used too. Thats the harshest you should go.


    After if you notice any scratches or marring from your process hit the area with a light cutting pad and some polishing compound to buff it out (after a wash and clay to the area of course).
     
  17. May 4, 2017 at 10:00 AM
    #17
    TRDMountaineer

    TRDMountaineer Well-Known Member

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    After using braided line to get my badges off, I sprayed bug & tar remover over the residue and rubbed my finger over it. As it begins drying the residue will start to stick to your finger and will roll right off.
     
  18. May 5, 2017 at 11:29 AM
    #18
    doughpat

    doughpat [OP] Nerd With a Sweet Truck

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    Thanks for the advice. A couple follow-up questions:

    1.) How/when does the heat gun come into play? I assume its used before the claybar (picked that up today), to help soften adhesive residue?
    2.) On the isopropyl...what ratio (dilution), and would I use that before/after/instead-of the claybar and heat?

    Thanks.
     
  19. May 5, 2017 at 2:53 PM
    #19
    orezona

    orezona title unspecified

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    Heating the glue makes it more gooey, which is easier to manipulate. Don't OVERheat the residue, though. I used the "Ow, it's too hot to touch, should probably lay off for a bit" technique. No burns so I think I did good!
    I used just what I had on hand, 70% rubbing alcohol, straight. It evaporates pretty quick. It's nothing like acetone which would definitely FUBAR your paint so don't worry about it.

    Bonus: It's all about pacing yourself. Doing things quicker means you mess stuff up quicker. Take it slow and be methodical. Put some music on in the background and have at least a six pack of cold beer near.
     

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