Ocd about alignment. Have a question

I just got an alignment today when I got home I decided to check the torque on the alignment tab bolts. Without thinking I got under the truck and torqued the rear cams (yes I turned the nut not the bolt that is keyed to the cams). I payed attention to them and didn't think I saw any movement on the cam when I tightened it but now my OCD is kicking in and I'm worried I possibly moved it. My question is how easy would these adjustments be to move with my truck on the ground? Could they move by just tightening the nut?

 

there's only one way to know if it moved. I'm sure your alignment people will gladly put you back on the rack for a quick check.

 

Hope you bought that lifetime alignment at Firestone!

 

I didn't but I do have a 6mo warranty.

 

Also I wanted to ask about my camber numbers. The tech aligned my truck with 0.5 camber on both sides is this too much camber? It's in spec but everyone on this site seems to disagree with the specs.

 

if you run off road AT tires then you should be level on the road: 0.0deg camber. on street tires you can add negative camber for highway handling.

 

Thank you. I think I'm gonna go back and at least get them to bring it to 0 camber. I'm running st maxxes.

 

I'm not sure how much more wear I will get from running .5 a degree but if it is going to wear faster I want it changed. Also I know my caster is a little low like 1.5 if I don't have any rubbing and the truck feels fine should I be worried about that at all.

 

then you absolutely for sure want them at zero. i also have ST Maxx, 265/65-17 E. these need to be flat on the road. and maximize your caster btw.

 

Are you lifted? Stock tires/wheel size?

 

I have a 2in lift and scs ray10s.

 

Tire size?
Wheel width and offset?

 

Sorry. 275/70/17 17x8.5 -10

 

Just for my info, what will maximizing my caster do? You do mean positive camber correct?

 

positive camber? yikes! not sure what yer talking about!

with your tires there should be no camber. if it was a street car you put negative camber on it. never positive. this is positive camber, and you can see its application.



i didn't know you were lifted and non-stock, so i can't really recommend anything aside from flattening your camber. caster is good for the highway and most normal driving above say 30mph or so. if you're lifted and have special needs then that may come first though.

 

Sorry, I ment caster, positive caster haha. I'm going to stop by tomorrow to have them take my camber to 0 and tell them to max out my caster, tho I'm not sure how much I will get with stock ucas. I'm fine with how the truck drives now and I'm not rubbing so my number 1 priority will be my camber.

 

That wheel and tire combo increased the positive scrub radius by 34mm(1-11/32"). The new geometry of a 2" lift affords you 1/2" of added positive scrub. In effect, 27/32" of added positive scrub.
Rolling toe will go toe-out.
Rolling camber will go positive.
Favor more toe-in and lower camber; within spec.

Increasing caster is used to get leverage on the tire by way of the steering axis. Leverage is good when we increase tire size/weight and/or increase positive scrub radius...to a point. Too much makes for hard steering and messes with camber in turns. Most favor a higher caster setting for clearance purposes.
I'd go with the maximum spec caster.

 

Thank you very much for all the help. I'll be stopping by the tire shop tomorrow. The alignment tech seemed happy to tell me if I needed it readjusted they would (of course I do have the 6mo warranty).

 

Went and got aligned again today.
LF:
camber 0.1
Caster 1.1
Toe 0.09

RF:
camber 0.0
Caster 1.4
Toe 0.07

He was having trouble getting me more caster after my camber was set to 0. I will be going back In about a week to get it checked tho. He warned me to take out my cam bolts and anti seize them before they lock up so once I do that I'll be bringing it back to get it rechecked.

As far as the caster I know it's kinda low but I have no rubbing and the truck drives just fine. I don't think it's a big enough deal to spend the 500 bucks on ucas.

The tech kept telling me there was a ball joint that's adjustable for these truck where you don't have to buy the whole arm but I didn't look into it.

 

so, no more pull?