Ripped Stud Bolt for O2 Sensor - WWYD

5/3/2017
Hey everyone,

I ripped/tore-off the stud bolt for the O2 sensor as I was removing it. There's still some left that I can salvage using a smaller nut. Question is what do you recommend I do?

Also, I called a local muffler shop and he doesn't advise welding another bolt on to replace the old one as it wouldn't be strong enough to last.

Thanks!

Picture:

Update - 5/4/2017
Per advice, I was able to remove the stud through a combination of PB Blaster + Vice Grips. Unfortunately, dealer doesn't have any replacement studs/nuts in stock so need to special order.

FWIW, I believe some Toyota part websites like Rock Auto are incorrectly describing the replacement size as 10Mx1.25. This is too large - I believe the correct size is 8M-1.25

Here's a comparison:

 

I would think that stud is threaded into the flange. You could double nut the good stud to back it off and see if it is threaded in, and if it is just heat and use vice grips on the broken stud to back it out.

 

Okay. I might try that though I worry about breaking the other stud.

Can I operate off one stud or are two required for everything to function optimally?

 

If you can heat it up it's a lot more likely to come loose, then just replace both studs while you're there. Or just heat the broken one and use vice grips but if it doesn't come out the threads will be destroyed.
I would bet that there would be a leak immediately or shortly after with only one stud fastened.

 

With one stud holding down the sensor you'll end up with an exhaust leak, then a check engine light...
Those studs are a pita. I recommend getting a propane torch and a can of PB blaster. Hose down the stud and let it sit overnight. The next day, heat it up and hose it down again. Then again, then again. By doing this through capillary action you're getting the penetrating lubricant down into the internal threads, and the heating and cooling are breaking down the rust and bonding between the flange and stud. This process will hopefully give you the best chance to remove the stud without it galling or snapping inside the flange...
Also, once you've prepped enough to remove the stud, I usually use a rocking (loosen then tighten-repeat) type movement to break the stud loose.
If you have enough thread, the two nut technique may work, if not the vise-grip method works pretty well.
Good luck.

 

Pull the part and take it to an exhaust shop. They can weld on a new flange if necessary. I'd do that. (And I have.)

 

get an extractor or use a small pipe wrench.

 

If the pipe is pulled, then he could just drill out the stud in a worst case scenario.

 

And people laugh at me for using anti-sieze on about everything...

DOOOD! I agree with these guys, pull the pipe, or even manifold so you can get it away from the truck. After that it's up to you to use one o the many home brew methods of getting them both out. (PBB, heat, candle wax, welding nuts to it, or bringing it to machine shop)

One stud will probably work for a while. Then the pressure will finally take it's last whack at the O2S flange, you will have leaks and depending upon if it's a front or back sensor, the engine light will be the first of complications.

GL!

 

^ this

Soak with PB Blaster for a day before you try it.

Candle wax???????

 

Having had this problem many times I find the quickest (cheapest) is remove the pipe cut the old bung off weld new one one install two new studs .

Put it back together .

This may not be the best way for the OP but it works best for me.

A temp fix can be a hose clamp on the broken side till it can get fixed correct.

 

Thanks for the advice everyone. Posted an update above - I was able to successfully remove the stud through a combination of PB Blaster and vice grips. Took some time to get a nice firm grip on the stud and a good angle to start moving it. Local auto stores didn't care the replacement sizes I needed and required special ordering so I decided to special order through Toyota and be done with it. Will post the results tomorrow.

 

Candle wax was the O.G. gangster way of doing things a long time ago before penetrants. paraffin wax is actually a part of many lubricants today. the wax actually will penetrate by moving towards hotter items.

http://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/the-art-of-removing-stuck-nuts-and-bolts/

 

Thats gangster as hell bro.

 

parafin wax is my goto penetrant. In my experience it clings to the nut/stud/bolt when it cools and in doing that every thread has lube as you unscrew it. I have had all of the lubes, PB, WD etc gall the threads.

 

I'm pretty sure it's an M6x1.25. True Value carries them in my town.
Edit: I'd recommend replacing the sensor gasket.

 

You don't have to use a stud and nut. Get the proper size bolt and tighten down the sensor using a bolt.

 

Any chance you remember the part number?

I'm dealing with this right now (I pulled both studs out unintentionally) and am contemplating going with trying to find a Toyota part since the top seems like it was brass coated or something, or going with a full stainless rod and threading it all the way in.

 

Amen brother!!!

Also dielectric grease on all my connectors, bulbs, battery posts, ground attachments, etc.

 

old thread but yea. i slap that stiffon everything after owning this truck for a few years.