Couple of CV Axle Questions

Guys-

First- thank you for your help. If it wasn't for you, I wouldn't have gotten this far...

I'll be the first to admit, I've never done this before. Total newb when it comes to this work. After many a Youtube video, and TW write-ups- I'm replacing a bunch of stuff on my front end and I have a couple of simple questions:

1. When I got the CV Axle out last night, there was a little gold ring that came off with it. It looks like it goes on the outside of the CV axle housing- where it would be against the transfer case. Is that a huge issue? Do I need to get that back on before I put the CV axle back in or do anything to it? Can I just "rubber mallet" it back on? [PIC BELOW]



2. After I got the "old" CV axle out, it looked completely dry where it attaches to the steering knuckle. I drained the diff fluid before I did this, but there was a little that leaked out- no big deal. My "newb common sense" tells me that I need to add grease or gear oil or something to the splines on the NEW CV axle before it get it all put back in. Do I need to do that? [More Pics Below]





Also, just so you guys know, I'm replacing inner and outer tie rod ends, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, LCA bushings, lower ball joints, painting brake calipers and rotors, adding SS brake lines, and "cleaning up" some of the frame down there with truck bed liner and chassis roll bar paint.

 

The metal thing is a dust shield. Just tap it onto the axle before install. Make sure if you use a new one that you don't "double stack" those, I did that once from not paying attention, the dust shield was still stuck to the diff part when I pulled the axle off and then put the new one on with another dust shield, ruined the axle seal.

As for the splines that's up to you. I usually like to dab a little on the c clip to keep it "suspended" so popping it back in is a little easier.

 

Awesome.

What about where it attaches into the steering knuckle? Should I put any type of lube/grease on there? There were a few small lines of rust, but everything was pretty well clean on the outside. I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right and as good as I possibly can.

 

It can't hurt to do that too, if you wish. It won't make much of a difference either way, but it may make removal a little easier later.

I will usually put a little slather of grease around the dust cap. Why? I have removed the dust cap so many times and it's so beat up that last time I removed it there was some rust underneath on the hub. So I added a little grease in a lazy attempt to keep moisture out.

 

Yeah. Why not. I have synthetic everything in this truck, so I just really want to make sure I get it all done right. Sincerely, I really appreciate the help/advice.

I'll put a little, light grease coating on everything before I get it all put back in.

One more question... Any trick on lining up the splines- anything I have to make sure to match up- or just get it lined up and push?

 

Get it lined up, centered horizontally and vertically, and just try to "pop" it in. Prepare for a forearm workout. You may need to man handle it. The reason why it's so much harder with a new one is the C clip. That's why I like to dab it with grease first. Probably doesn't help much but it makes me feel better

 

In the past, once I'm positive I've felt the splines align and start correctly, if the c-clip was holding me back, I've used a dead blow hammer on the outboard end of the cv axle to 'coax' the clip to start into the diff.

 

X2 a nice hammer helps if it's being especially stubborn

 

IIRC - positioning of the C-clip can help ease the install portion. I can't remember if you want the C-clip opening at the top, or at the bottom..
The grease will help keep it 'positioned'.

Here's where I recall reading this opening at the bottom...