Need some reassurance!!

Maybe these are of interest to you? You're paying for quality here, not the cheapest option. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wts-total-chaos-uca.489790/#post-15071717

 

I got JBA UCAs with my 885s and it's well worth the price for the alignment I was able to get. The UCAs were half the battle, though. First place I took to get it aligned did not give me 0 camber even though I asked them and it was possible. Did some research on a more competent shop and got the exact specs I wanted.

At the end of the day, I'm very happy with the investment.

 

Right. I was just trying to use baby steps here...

 

There's a group buy on SPC/LR UCAs going on.

I think they had some teething issues early on in the design but they are solid now IMO. I've been happy with mine.

 

Here's what I just went with:

• Bilsteins 5100s set at 0
• OME 884 coils
• Light Racing UCA
• Diff drop kit
• 265/70R17 tires

I got 2" inch of lift (total of 3.25" with the tires) and am super happy with the set up.

The reasons I went with this set up:

1. Coils provide the best lift (vs spacers or adjustable shocks).
2. UCAs help with alignment and proper suspension movement.
3. The diff drop kit takes some of the pressure off the U-joints for the front drive.
4. Felt the 285s were just a bit too big.

But in terms of your questions - you may have some issues with rubbing, alignment and ride quality that could be addressed with some tweaking and/or living with the issues.

Its all a learning process and its only money right?

You'll learn as you go along like we all do.

Cheers!

 

Which is probably the better approach

 

5100's at the 2.5in setting will be stiff.

I have 5100's on stock TRD OR coils at the 1.75in setting the the ride is more firm but not jarring stiff, its proper now, not boat like how stock was, that stated at 2.5 it would be too stiff for my tastes.

Also even at 1.75in i run SPC UCA's (which have been awesome btw, zero issues) to get alignment in spec, drives SO much better now. And like stated most standard alignment shops dont know what they hell they were doing. I found an alignment guy who knew his shit, we spent 2 hours DIALING in my alignment to be perfect. 0.1* of toe in per side, -0.4* of camber per side, and 3.4* of caster



Next.... 285's. You WILL rub. Those who say you wont are liars and or never actually take their truck over anything more than a curb at the mall.... Seriously, doesnt matter where you put a 285/75R16 sized tire, it physically does not fit within the inner wheel well.

Plan on AT LEAST, inner fender trimming / removal, But also probably plan on a cab mount chop if you truly dont want to rub anywhere.

 

...get ready to deal with a noisy needle bearing, almost a given if you go 2 1/2 inches up front. I have mine set at .80 and the noise is pretty loud and there's significant play in the driver's side CV shaft. Many threads, here's one to read: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-diff-vibes-ecgs-bushing-fix.464941/

 

I'm running stock uppers with a set of Kings and alignment was to spec. I'm running 285/65/18 tires. It only rubs a little on trail runs and im pretty happy with it.

 

Thank you for all the information. Its just the budget i have right now or else i would get the new UCA's and coils so i would run into the issues.

So would you recommend that i pick up the 884 coils next?

 

Hey guys,

For you that bought and installed the SPC Upper Control Arms. How long did it take to do the install? I'm not a season mechanic, but I'm far from incompetent when it comes to following directions and turning wrenches. I have the Toytec Ultimate Lift kit on my 2011 TRD Sport and was wondering what your take was on installing the SPC UCA.

Thanks!
-Matt

 

I have the bilstein 5100s set at 2.5 with the stock coils and its not that stiff at all, it rides fine, for me anyway. i would get adjustable upper control arms if i were you so your alignment can be set without any issues.and I also have the 265/75/16 bfg ko2s it doesn't rub with the front flaps off . with larger tires it might. I don't have the blocks in the back but I went with the wheelers add a leaf for 2" of lift plus the added benefit of carrying more weight if need be, it sits nice and is a bit stiff in the back but it is a truck.

 

I just did mine with the spc control arms a few weeks ago, it wasn't hard at all, the drivers side was a little bit harder because you may need to remove the battery and the tray to get the long bolt out of the control arm, other than that and bending the upper fender well lip to get the bolt out it was pretty easy

 

You will need to be prepared for the driver side diff bearing in the front to be swapped to the ECGS bushing as well as extended brake lines. Lifting to the height you are trying to get is going to open up all sorts of problems trying to do it on a budget. My advice is to set front to 1.75" and do 1" in the rear with 265's until you afford to lift it properly.

 

The driver side install is a bit harder than the passenger side, but overall it's not that bad. Just bend the fender well with channel locks and you'll be able to get the bolt out. Be careful not to pinch the wires as you slide the bolt up into the engine bay. And no need to remove your strut and coil assembly as it won't be in your way.

 

I have an access cab that I ran for a couple years at 2.5" on stock coils with stock UCAs. My caster was a little low (1.6), that's why I ended up running skinny 33s - they function better at low caster than wide tires.

Most importantly, 5100s set at the 1.75" setting gave me 2.5" of lift. Don't set them at the highest setting with your access cab!

 

885 coils will give you the same lift as your stock coils set at 1.75" (2.5" on V6 access cab 4x4).