Rear doors won't open after speaker install

My bet is you swapped the door lock/handle cables. It's stuck right in the middle preventing either interior/exterior handle from working properly.

 

If it's swapped cables perhaps you can push on the door from the inside while you press the unlock button on the fob? IDK.

 

I'm telling ya - you forgot to snap the cables back into the clips on the door panel. I did the exact same thing when I changed my speakers. You hafta pop the plastic lever out and pull the cable to release the latch.

 

I totally forgot to check the child safety lock stuff. Crap

 

Unfortunately this truck doesn't allow access to the cables that way. The door panel has to come off.
OP makes a good point, shouldn't the door still open from the outside?
Yet another thing I didn't remember to check
Crap!

 

I have the double cab. This is exactly how we did it.

No, the door won't open from the outside, the cable is attached to the handle

 

Nah, tried this after it happened

Nope, already been confirmed the cables are Installed correctly

Plastic lever out?

 

The lever you use to lock/unlock the door.

 

How do you pop the lever out?

 

Get the plastic plate out of the way and slide a flat screwdriver under the lever. It has two pivot posts top and bottom. Need to twist the screwdriver to unseat them.

 

I'll try this tomorrow. Didn't think the lever could be pulled out this way.

Borrowed a mechanic mirror and snake camera from a buddy. The cables are Installed correctly and snapped in. Have confirmed this a few times already using other methods as well.

Tomorrow I will un bolt the door at the hinges to see if this relieves pressure on the latch.

 

I wish you good luck with that. It was on the list of things to suggest, but then I imagined a 50lb door just hanging onto a latch that isn't releasing. I figured that if it were me in that situation, nothing good would happen and I'd bend something for sure.

Not that I'm considering myself an expert here, but I'm curious why you discounted attempting to remove the door panel. You say that the cables are connected to the latch correctly but moving the lever (extending the cable) isn't releasing the door and the outside latch is disabled. Do you have any other choice other than getting behind the panel? I did some online searching on similar problems and even a few times where locksmiths had drilled a hole in the OUTSIDE of the door to trip the latch and send the customer to a body shop. Of course that would be ridiculous.

 

Actually let me rephrase that. The plan was to back the hinge bolts out just enough to release tension, not to remove them 100%. These doors are rated well above 50 lbs.

Unfortunately it will be raining here in NJ for the next few days. Not sure when I will have a chance to work on the door again.

As for removing the panel, I just don't see how it is possible without damaging something

 

OK man, I'm running out of ideas myself.
I happen to have a lock jimmy set. It has a bunch of tools designed to help the honest get into a locked door. I've used them a bunch of times, but of course the various home modified slim-jims always seem to work best. Sometimes I would encounter a door that in the process of unlocking I managed to unlatch the door.

Since your other rear passenger door is now open (I did read that right?) take your panel off and see if you can create a tool that will allow you to reach into the window gap and articulate the latch. Coat hangers, metal strapping, piece of pexiglass are all good materials to make one.
Practice with the good door until you figure out how to hold your tongue. This way you can see what's going on inside.



Oh, and the 50lbs wasn't a spec figure... just a guess.

 

There's another idea...
.
And speaking of tongues.

 

Damn... I feel for you OP.... So from what I understand here.... your cables ARE in the correct position and seated in the retainer correctly.
So why don't it open the door from the inside...? Child lock..NO, because you can't open from the outside....

Therefore the issue has to be with the other end of the cable....ie: where it connects to the actual door lock mechanism, right..?

Question for those that know.... Does the outside handle AND the inside handle BOTH connect with cables? Same cable??... How does the outside one connect? It does not seem logical that BOTH handles would malfunction....as well as the other door also..!! The odds of F'n something up on BOTH doors the same way is pretty high...

I'd say the issue was created by the OP's speaker installation somehow...

I have no idea what you did, but I'd bet it's because of the new speakers. No idea, as I've not had my doors opened up for viewing yet..

Wish you the best.... Concentrate on what YOU did.... That caused the issue, I think.

 

Not the thread I wanted to bump into after just ordering new speakers for my truck. I have no experience with audio, but watched a few videos and figured I could handle it. Now I'm having second thoughts. Anyone want to hold my hand and tell me everything is going to be OK????

 

Why can't you remove the back seat and then remove the panel? Have you checked on the price of a replacement panel. If its cheep enough cut your way in.
studying the door you can open is going to be key to getting into the door you can't get into. Unbolting the door is probably the worst thing you can do. When you opened the door was the child safety latched tripped. If so maybe chasing a path to unlatch that with the door closed may work.

 

I did something similar on my passenger rear door when I did my stereo. The ball end of the cable (for the door latch) was seated in the latch. However, the cable popped out of its slot in the door panel when i was aligning the panel for reinstall.

So....If you're sure the ball end of the cable is seated in the latch....you'll need to try opening the door from inside. Pull the interior latch (like normal) and when it stops....pull a little harder and a little harder and a little harder and the door will pop open.

If the cable isn't in it's slot in the door panel you need extra pressure on the interior handle to extend the cable further to open the door.

I didn't read the previous 5 pages so I dunno if this is your situation or if you've tried this.

Saw PS-RagE mention this in this thread. Pretty sure that's your problem. You don't have to remove the lever though. Just pull the lever past where it stops.

 

Solid advice lol