Can't wait to get flamed for this 2.5-3" lift post (I'm at 2.3ish"

First, here's what I'm looking for. A little more front lift so I rub less when wheeling and turning right over bumps. I have a 2014 DCLB Off-Road running 33's, (Cooper Discoverer AT3 285/75r16) with a Pelfreybilt hidden winch mount (steel) and Warn M-8000 (steel cable) winch, Pelfreybilt IFS skid plate (aluminum, powder coated), and a few front end lighting accessories.

This is about 120lbs added on the front end before BAMF mounts, electrical accessories are tallied.

My front end has been sagging a bit lately, and I'm trying to figure out the best front end suspension for my needs. Here's what I currently have.

Bilstein 5100 adjustable (set at .85")
Toytec (Eibach) springs (claimed 1.6" lift)
SPC Lite Racing Upper Control Arms

Back lift: OME Nitrocharger Sport on Dakar leaf pack (no AAL).

I have read so many threads and I swear to god every one has a different answer. I'm not planning on adding a front winch/bull bar bumper, so do I go with OME 886 and set my 5100s at 0? Or do I use another shock and get 887s?

I'm open to all suggestions. As for the rear, I'll probably get the OME AAL as I plan to add either the All Pro OTT rack and a RTT, or sell my Softopper and get a Snugtop Fiberglass cap and put a Frontrunner rack on it.

Finally, I'm pretty deep into this bottle of Wild Turkey 101. Goodnight everyone.

 

Maybe 150 lbs added including the skid plate. I'm not a doctor.

 

I had the same problem as you, and I finally fixed it with the following ICONs plus the 700lb coilover upgrade, which can be added as an option at all of the vendor sites, and they ship pre-assembled and ready to bolt up.

Front:
ICON 58735 EXTENDED TRAVEL REMOTE RESERVOIR COILOVER SET
Back:
ICON 56503R-EXT 2″ VS SERIES REMOTE RESERVOIR REAR SHOCK SET

Icons are a little overpriced, but you can use this information to find some other brands that are equivalent for a lot less money... the main things I liked about these were the heavy coil for all my armor and shit; and they're adjustable so I can preload them if I want to sit perfectly level.

 

With the extra weight, I would go with the OME886x coils. I have the 887s with 5100s @0 but no additional weight up front and they are getting softer now they are settling.

You might also want to look at the full Dakar rear leaf pack instead of an AAL. You mentioned quite a bit of additional weight in the bed and that would cause the AAL and the Factory pack to sag.

 

At this point I would also recommend going to King,Fox,Icon,ADS with 700lb coils.

 

I'm running bilstein 5100's at 0 with 887's definitely provides a true 3 inches of lift, maybe a little bit more since I'm 2wd. Then again I'm 2wd w/ an aftermarket bumper soooo idk. But the billy/887 combo works pretty well for me.

 

700 pound coil is overkill - the 886's are only 660 lbs.

887s and a top plate spacer will get you there without having a ridiculously stiff ride.

 

this.

 

Where are you rubbing at? Depending on whats rubbing, extra lift may not matter.

 

And this. If OP didn't do CMC and hammer the pinch weld there's gonna be rubbing.

 

If I were in your shoes I'd go 887's, I've got about the same weight as you, with the 885 springs, I've done a couple 'panic stop' tests and the nose didn't dive excessively or anything and ride is quite nice.

 

I'd go 886 coils.

But I want 700# springs as it is... but I have full steel skids, Pelfreybilt bumper, winch, etc.

Anyhow, with 285s you're going to rub unless you cut things. CMC is needed. Get as much positive Caster as you can 2.5-3 degrees is needed on 33's. Upgraded UCAs allow doing this.

 

A lot of wisdom in this post. Back when my T-100 was newer, several folks would suggest Sway Away torsion bars to lift the front end. After a few years, MANY of those same people admitted that they made the truck ride like a frickin lumber wagon. I put a spacer lift on my TRD Off-Road and it still has the same great ride it had when I bought it.

I still haven't heard or read a good argument why spacer lifts are bad.

 

It doesn't matter what your ride height is, your tire will still rub the same spots they did before you raised it. When you offroad or even go into a driveway with a hill, your tire will still stuff into your fender the same as before, no matter what springs you change to.

You need to trim/cut where your tire rubs. That is the only way to remedy this. Unless you want to run a 12" drop bracket lift with 20x14 wheels with 10' wide low profile mud terrains stretched over it.

 

It's the smallest bit of rubbing inside the front of the passenger side fender on a hard right turn while going over a bump at 5-ish mph. Doesn't really bug me as I only hit that turn a few times a week. I've cut some plastic away but there's no evidence of rubbing the cab mount, so CMC never happened.

 

Anyway I called Marie at Headstrong Off Road today and ordered a set of 886 coils and a taco lean spacer. I'm going to try them on my 5100s set at 0" and see how it goes. If it's too splashy, I'll upgrade the struts too.

 

I was running 285s on konig wheels without rubbing the cab mount, but you would need to push the caster out to 4 degrees. Also have a plate bumper. Everyone will have different results, but it's worth a try if you don't want to do the CMC.