Manual locking hub

stairgod · May 7, 2017

jowybyo said: ↑

What is so complex about two DC motors driven by a green board actuated by a switch? That's about as simple of an electrical system as there is, unless you just want to turn on a light bulb. Also, there's more to designing a product then that. Are there other ways that it can be done? Sure. But you don't know the cost constraints or any of the design requirements that the engineers were working with. Furthermore, the best most ingenious way of doing could be patented and they might not have been able to do it that way. Designing a product is hard. There are lots of factors that go into choosing the "best" design. Many times is schedule and cost based. The cheapest solution that can get the job done on time quite often wins. Many times, the idea you want to carry out is blocked because of compliance and regulatory issues. Frequently it's because some other engineer at another competitor patented the idea. Don't even get me started on tooling and sourcing issues. There are a 1000 things that go into picking the final design, most of which the engineers have no control over. We don't even get to control what the feature is. Honestly, being an engineer kinda blows. Often we are stuck carrying out the wishes of a bunch of a-holes that set unrealistic schedules and cost targets for features that are just stupid.

Also, we don't even know what makes the ADD system suck. Many people have no problems with it. For the ones that do, it seems to be a variety of issues. Many get water in the front diff actuator. Can't really blame that on an engineer. It's likely that "ability to survive driving in 3' of water" wasn't a requirement. It's also possible that the front actuator was selected purely because it was cheaper than waterproof units and the decision wasn't the engineers'. It's also likely that many of the other issues are related to the green board and the control logic. Maybe the logic is flawed which would be the control engineers' fault. Or maybe they didn't get to test it enough because of schedule constraints set by managers. Maybe the logic is fine and a cheap ass board manufacturer was selected by the sourcing team.

I could sit here for an hour and go on and on. But in the end, we are talking about the design of a product that was have no true knowledge of. Only someone on the product team can really discuss how they arrived at the design that was delivered.
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I have to build based on drawings done by an architect that has no clue how to do the work, and have unrealistic expectations of cost and time to complete......

We should go bowling.

strattonje · May 7, 2017

In all honesty Toyota probably had the best auto locking hub setups. But you know all you salty bastards were happy when they made auto hubs and you didn't have to get out in the rain and snow! Lol but that being said I'll drop 2500 on these manual hubs

paranoid56 · May 7, 2017

strattonje said: ↑

In all honesty Toyota probably had the best auto locking hub setups. But you know all you salty bastards were happy when they made auto hubs and you didn't have to get out in the rain and snow! Lol but that being said I'll drop 2500 on these manual hubs
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not sure, the auto hubs on my 84 toyota sucked lol. i always loved it when it would randomly unlock when going backwards lol

strattonje · May 7, 2017

paranoid56 said: ↑

not sure, the auto hubs on my 84 toyota sucked lol. i always loved it when it would randomly unlock when going backwards lol
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I've never owned anything but a Toyota pickup to Tacoma... but have you driven a ford ranger? That shit is a real gamble hahah

strattonje · May 7, 2017

As far as this manual hub thing... RCV should be releasing their Tacoma cvs soon. I'm just gonna order a custom set with a 1st gen manual hub setup For the outer shaft

paranoid56 · May 7, 2017

strattonje said: ↑

I've never owned anything but a Toyota pickup to Tacoma... but have you driven a ford ranger? That shit is a real gamble hahah
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have only owned toyota trucks also. wouldnt touch a ford lol
84, 86, 89, 03 and now the 14

AcerD · May 9, 2017

Is anyone actually running these? is there any difference in MPG?

paranoid56 · May 9, 2017

AcerD said: ↑

Is anyone actually running these? is there any difference in MPG?
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Yep, dont know yet, but on my 1st gen it helped maybe 1-2mpg

AcerD · May 9, 2017

paranoid56 said: ↑

Yep, dont know yet, but on my 1st gen it helped maybe 1-2mpg

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Cool! I'll have to keep my eye on this thread and see what people are getting once they start to get some miles on them.

N/Es06 · Sep 11, 2017

I have an 06 tacoma with 6 spd. She's got the low range (lefty) inchworm t-case. Right now I can use the twin stick to put her in 2h, 2lo, 4h & 4lo. It's twin stick so one is hi/lo the other is 2w/4w. However, to get the front to pull, I have a toggle switch that engages the front. If I don't push the switch up the front "basically don't lock" and I'm in 2lo. If I get these manual hub conversions, will I simply delete the switch all together and completely be old school?
What I want is to completely make it manual/mechanical, no switches. How would this manual conversion work with the modern electronic technology? Simply delete it?

jowybyo · Sep 12, 2017

N/Es06 said: ↑

I have an 06 tacoma with 6 spd. She's got the low range (lefty) inchworm t-case. Right now I can use the twin stick to put her in 2h, 2lo, 4h & 4lo. It's twin stick so one is hi/lo the other is 2w/4w. However, to get the front to pull, I have a toggle switch that engages the front. If I don't push the switch up the front "basically don't lock" and I'm in 2lo. If I get these manual hub conversions, will I simply delete the switch all together and completely be old school?
What I want is to completely make it manual/mechanical, no switches. How would this manual conversion work with the modern electronic technology? Simply delete it?
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Yes

gainman · Sep 12, 2017

N/Es06 said: ↑

I have an 06 tacoma with 6 spd. She's got the low range (lefty) inchworm t-case. Right now I can use the twin stick to put her in 2h, 2lo, 4h & 4lo. It's twin stick so one is hi/lo the other is 2w/4w. However, to get the front to pull, I have a toggle switch that engages the front. If I don't push the switch up the front "basically don't lock" and I'm in 2lo. If I get these manual hub conversions, will I simply delete the switch all together and completely be old school?
What I want is to completely make it manual/mechanical, no switches. How would this manual conversion work with the modern electronic technology? Simply delete it?
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Yes you can even pull your 4wd computer at that point if you wanted to.

Other option is to swap the axle housing out of an FJ and the cv axle also. It will basically make the front permanently engaged

Putzcommander · Sep 15, 2017

OMG this is what i want. Im sorry but i grew up on transfer cases and manual hubs and for me theres nothing better. No guessing, no computers. If it aint grinding your good to go. Take my money now. Take it. Take it now for the love of God and all that is holy.

Muddinfun · Sep 15, 2017

I haven't read through all 10 pages. How is the ABS dealt with, since the tone ring is on the CV joint.

paranoid56 · Sep 15, 2017

Muddinfun said: ↑

I haven't read through all 10 pages. How is the ABS dealt with, since the tone ring is on the CV joint.
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its still on it the unit bearing so you are good

05Taco4x4 · Sep 21, 2017

There is now another option in 2nd Gen Tacoma Parts Marketplace. These will work for 3rd Gen Tacomas as well.

shawnMc · Sep 21, 2017

chaddawkins said: ↑

There is now another option in 2nd Gen Tacoma Parts Marketplace. These will work for 3rd Gen Tacomas as well.
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Link? I can't find it

T4RFTMFW · Sep 21, 2017

shawnMc said: ↑

Link? I can't find it
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https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/manual-locking-hub-conversion-1250.511528/

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